SteveJ

That was the change over to 78. Yes, you have different relays. The good news is both are available as new, old stock, (NOS) for reasonable cost. https://www.ebay.com/itm/115076416128 https://www.ebay.com/itm/113692357729 I purchased a clock from the seller in the past. I suggest you edit your signature (find it in your profile) to indicate the build date of your car. That way you will get more accurate replies.

You won't find a single relay to replace the EFI relay UNLESS you use a relay designed for the Bosch system. The nice thing is that you can still find the relays. Just look for the EFI relay on a Beetle. It's the same.

Given the wire sizes in the harness, 70A (alternator) and 30A (all others) would probably be appropriate. Blue Sea provides the fuse curves for their Maxi Fuses. https://www.bluesea.com/products/5143/MAXI_Fuse_-_80_Amp The curve is the same for each amperage as it's based upon percent of fuse rating.

If you want to push air through the fuel rail, disconnect the carburetors, first. New≠Good, especially for fuel pumps. See what @Zed Headlinked. If the fuel pump goes bad on my 73, I'll probably just use an electric fuel pump.

Odds are it's your fuel pump. If it has a bad check valve, it will never pump adequately.

First, I can't see what hose goes where. Second, don't waste time. Go out and get a hand-held vacuum pump. It can help you with bleeding the brakes and clutch in the future.

If you don't see fuel in the filter, the pump isn't primed. The thing about cranking the engine to pull fuel is that you'll drain the battery faster. You can repeat a few times. As I mentioned before, you can use a hand-held vacuum pump to pull fuel to the filter. If the mechanical pump isn't pulling, you'll know because the car will die if it's not pumping fuel.

One way is to take off the fuel hose from the outlet of the fuel filter and spray carb cleaner into that hose toward the fuel pump. Also, make sure there is fuel in the float bowls of the carburetors.

Did you prime the fuel pump?

Um, no. The lack of a pressure regulator would not cause that since fuel would flow freely. Is your electric pump oriented in the proper direction? I can't tell from the potato quality photo. Get some more light under there. If it's pointed backwards, it might block fuel flow. Also, do you have voltage at the electric pump? Describe the wiring you used on it. (Is it connected to the stock wiring or what?)

Mechanical or electric fuel pump? If it's electric, is it mounted near the tank, and do you have a filter between the tank and pump?

Yeah, I was scratching my head on the aluminum spacer, too.

ZCarDepot has the spacer, too. https://zcardepot.com/products/fuel-pump-spacer-plate-240z-260z

It needs the spacer. The spacer is an insulator, keeping the heat from the head away from the fuel going through the pump. I don't know what brand fuel pump that is, but don't hold out a lot of hope for it.

Yes, it would be interesting to hear where @dutchzcarguy has found someone selling discontinued NOS fuel pumps.

https://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/Sealed/YPC/ypc.html

If you have a handheld vacuum pump (like a Mighty Vac), you would put it on the outlet of the fuel filter and try drawing fuel into the filter. If it can, then start to suspect the fuel pump.

Try blowing the line out from the front with compressed air. Have someone take off the gas cap and listen for the air coming out. You could have stirred up junk in the tank and clogged the line.

I have some that may be in decent shape. They would need to be painted, though.

I bought a few of these to play around with. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09VK1WYVP I found the harness to plug into it on Aliexpress and bought a few, too.

The first Sunday of the month and another early morning car meet. Great weather led to a great turnout.

The condenser at the distributor was to help reduce the voltage spikes on the points. The ZX distributor doesn't have points, hence the lack of a need for the condenser. The one at the alternator is to reduce noise for things like your radio. I'm not sure about what condenser you're talking about for the other components. Where do you see this?

I actually made a video on that subject to help people who get confused when they disconnect the wires from their ballast resistor and coil. I have been using the ZX alternator for over 20 years, and the GM "one wire" operates pretty much the same way. As far as relays go, you may want to read this: https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2012/12/22/relays-simplified/

Let me re-phrase. The 85 pin on the relay would come off a fuse fed by the black/white ignition wire. The 86 pin would be grounded. The 87 pin would be a constant voltage source, and the 30 pin would run up to the lamp light on the voltmeter. The other wire on the lamp light would run out to the L terminal (switched) on the alternator.

Here's my 2¢ on this. When I'm looking at fixing my engine harness, I'm thinking of using a relay controlled by the ignition power and having a constant voltage source that goes out to the L terminal of the alternator. This would eliminate the feedback on the ignition circuit that drives people to add the relay. As for the diode and lamp being in the same circuit, resistance is a non-issue. Diodes don't have appreciable resistance. You will need keep the voltage lamp as an incandescent, though. That way if you start to see a glow in the lamp, you know the alternator is starting to fail.