SteveJ

Stock motor with stock compression - go with 87 or choose 91 if you like to burn money for no gain. If you have higher compression, go with 91.

It doesn't show up in a Google search for the site. Your thread does, though.

From watching the electricians pull wires, they always use plenty of tape to make sure everything is smooth. Of course, electricians fishing tape might help with that endeavor, too.

Was there fuel in the fuel filter in the engine bay? I assume you have new hoses between the gas tank and the fuel lines and between the fuel lines, fuel pump, fuel rail, and carburetors. You could try blowing compressed air back to the tank from the fuel filter. If you don't hear air coming through, the fuel line could be clogged.

I left you a voicemail.

I was at Road Atlanta watching the vintage racing action. After the day was done, it's time to drive home. I put the transmission in 3rd gear to go down the big hill, and it's letting out a whine that I had never heard before. As I pulled up behind other traffic, I put the car in 1st, there was a really bad noise, and the car lurched. I tried 2nd. The transmission whined a painful whine, and 3rd was about the same. I decided to see if I could make it closer to home to reduce the amount of time getting towed. I could get the car moving in 2nd and quickly shifted through 3rd and on to 4th. I cruised home and only had to come to a full stop a couple of times. The 260Z will be parked for a little while. Fortunately, I have a line on a 5 speed. It's not a great situation, but I did make it home safe.

I saw this, and it reminded me of quite a few threads here: https://www.hagerty.com/media/advice/piston-slap/piston-slap-too-much-talk-just-for-vapor-lock

As the float rises, the resistance drops. If you are sure the sending unit is registering low, you could bend the arm down on the sending unit. I would go slow on that, though.

Make sure the fuel level in the tank isn't too high. How to test: Turn the key to ON. Use a piece of wire to short to the terminals at the sending unit while someone watches the gauge. The gauge should go up. Remove the wire after testing, keeping in mind that the gauge probably won't respond too quickly. If the gauge does not respond in test 1, leave the key in ON. Use a voltmeter to measure voltage to ground at the yellow terminal. The voltage should be changing a lot. If it's not, it could be the gauge, but more on that later. If the gauge moved in test 1, pull out the sending unit. Measure resistance between the two terminals while moving the float. If the resistance doesn't change, you have a bad sending unit. If test 2 failed, double check at the body harness/dash harness interface. Find the yellow wire and test voltage to ground on the dash harness side with the key in ON. Good luck and report back on the results. If you don't understand the tests as I laid out, let me know.

Very unlikely they are related. Start a new thread on the fuel gauge, and I'll give you some tests to run.

I couldn't tell you myself. I just happened to have an extra set of visors handy, so I took a photo to show what @zKars was talking about. It was the only screw, so it seemed obvious to me. Look at this link and click on the photo: http://dimequarterly.blogspot.com/2012/10/recovering-sun-visors-by-derek-garnier.html I think it tells you what you need to know. Yes, it's for a 510, but it looks the same as the 240Z visor.

I'm running SMs on a stock L24. It doesn't seem too rich to me.

I would suspect the hatch seal first. Then move to the hatch glass weatherstrip.

This one

It's listed, but it's unavailable from MSA. https://www.thezstore.com/product/4919/oil-cap-o-ring-72-83-zzx

The manual is saying the marks are 4º apart. There is one screw that allows you to adjust this indicator relative to the distributor mounting bracket. There is another screw that allows you to adjust the distributor relative to the indicator. When you adjust both, you can get well over 8º advance at idle.

Is it my imagination, or did you get the opening for the fill cap powder coated, too? It seems like that would be best left to staying the natural aluminum.

Be careful when you doubt the Captain. I looked at all 3 I had lying around and found no gaskets, but once I opened the parts manual website... But not surprisingly...

Maybe a pinched wire. Maybe a mistake in reassembling a switch. The wiper switch connects the wires to ground.

Yep, one or more of the circuits going back to the switch is probably grounded.

By the way, check the coolant and oil. If either appear tan to brown, PARK IT IMMEDIATELY! I hope one of the contacts I provided can help you out.

Yikes! Does the white smoke smell sweet? It could be a blown head gasket. I'll PM you contacts for a couple of Florida Z clubs. Maybe one of them can help you find someone.

Look at this thread for some ideas: https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/108060-electric-fans/

What exactly do you need measured? I have an evaporator sitting in my garage. Do you have any typical fittings you could send me to test fit for you?