SteveJ

If you wanted to go simple, you could go with a system similar to what Rick Patton sells. It limits tunability, but it is simple. Affordable Fuel Injection sells the repurposed ECUs. The parts to support it are easily sourced. Another possibility is Megasquirt. You would have to set up a base map. This link gives you an idea of what you need to do: https://www.diyautotune.com/news/tuning-tips/megasquirt-efi-tuning-ecu-jeff-linfert/

And it's NLA. That's no big surprise.

Plug and pray

And Jay Ataka @esprist also was just featured on Jay Leno's Garage.

The photos look familiar...https://www.zcar.com/threads/wiring-ignition-with-rebello-carbureted-l28-into-a-77-280z.424085 Are you sure you trust that joker who told you what to do.

This is where an oscilloscope comes in handy. One channel has an inductive lead on the #1 plug, and the second channel is looking for the signal from the distributor.

You didn't have to Google it. I gave you the link to look it up.

Prompted by @Zed Head's reply, I looked at the Autozone site again. The sample pictures match the reman Hitachi, too. It also has the N and F terminals that I would expect. It's good to know that my mind isn't completely gone. I'm glad Zed also remembered the P terminal. By the way, here's a link to a list of alternator terminal designations: https://shop.pkys.com/Alternator-Terminals-explained.html

The cross reference would make one think it's externally regulated, but there is usually an N and F by the T plug for neutral and field IIRC. Just monitor the voltage, and if it's above 15 VDC to ground, it's internally regulated.

The condenser is supposed to be grounded like how you received it. It looks like you opted for the internally regulated alternator. You'll need to look at Blue's tech tips on how to jumper the wires on the voltage regulator to give it the signals it needs.

I knew I had looked at this before. That connector resides here Here it is in the wiring diagram. While it's on the passenger side firewall, the diagram has it by the coil. It hints that the BW wire spits before the 4 pin connector, but I'm not sure we can believe that. The BY wire would go from the passenger firewall, around the front of the engine, and over to the intake. The GB wire changes color somewhere and goes to the relay on the speedometer where it gets grounded. I think you and I discussed that in emails. The "green" wire in the wiring diagram changes color before that connector, too.

So the connector you're talking about is on the engine harness. My "spare" isn't in a decent condition to analyze. I may be able to see it in my car. I'll try to remember, but it may take some gentle nudging.

On my spare dash harness, it's another case of the FSM not matching. Looking at the back side of the connector, here is the wiring: The green wires are probably for the seat belt buzzers. The seat belt relay does not exist in the manual. The green wires go to the neutral switch on the transmission. I think when the car is in gear, the neutral switch completes the circuit to go to the buzzer and seat belt light if you don't have the belts fastened in occupied seats. (Be sure to buckle in your groceries if you put them in the passenger seat.) I think you and I discussed the throttle opener in a private message. In the engine bay, the BW wire splits to go to both BW terminals on connector 18. The BY goes to the throttle opener solenoid, and GB goes to the speedometer. So for this one, the LY wire is NOT LY. It is LW. I used a meter on my spare harness to find where it goes. It's part of the wiper circuit, going to the 9 pin connector at the steering column and the 6 pin connector at the intermittent relay. Here is the layout of the blue connector on my harness:

The other inline fuse is for the radio. The one with red wire is for the fan.

The inline fuse holder is for your fan. The larger three wire connector is for the antenna. The three wire stacked connector is for the radio. Black is typically ground.

Do you actually have an aftermarket AC, or are you calling the fan AC? Unless you have a JDM car, you don't have stock AC. Always supply the wire colors going to a connector. That helps to identify it more easily. As for the wire you're holding, that isn't a typical lug for Nissan wiring, and brown/white isn't a 240Z wire color.

Don't forget about Rockauto. If you go for the externally regulated, choose one rated for 60A. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1977,280z,2.8l+l6,1209248,electrical,alternator+/+generator,2412 Internally regulated (modifications on Blue's tech tips): https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1979,280zx,2.8l+l6,1209293,electrical,alternator+/+generator,2412

Why use that alternator? Is someone going to inflict bodily harm on you if you don't use it? Other than it being manufactured by Mitsubishi, what do you know about it? Has it been tested as good? What is the output, and is the output curve appropriate? It will need an external voltage regulator and one heck of a cleaning. Those terminals won't have very good contact. You could possibly make it work, but why? Here is what I believe the connections to be: You could get a 4-pin non-latching connector from Vintage Connections, but the pin won't be big enough to accommodate the gauge wire for the power wire.

Download the 74 FSM and start reading at page EF-31 on the carbon canister.

The 74 has the vent line. Of course, you could come up with something else.

Use a 74 fuel rail. It has a line to go to the carbon canister.

Where specifically on the coil is the arc occurring? It suggests to me that it could be the coil wire is not seated properly in the well on the coil and/or the insulation on the coil wire is breaking down.

You might want to post a link to the ebay auction/for sale.

I would guess that something is mis-wired.