SteveJ

John, I'm glad you decided to join us over here. Your expertise on lighting will surely be welcomed. I wish Tony would spend more time here, but he prefers hybridz.

Hey, the OP asked where to start looking. I just listed the easiest place to start. I like to eliminate the easy ones like that and then really start taking things apart later.

He's fine to buy "low cost" bits and pieces from, but as others mentioned, I'd be careful about purchasing anything significant from him.

You can still get the proper fusible links here.

Something tells me that you'll find a link (eventually) off of this website. I keep checking to see if the registration has gone live. I don't care whether or not I get #1. I just want to get registered since I couldn't go last year. Anyway, extra shirts are listed under the registration link. I'm sure that just ordering a shirt and wanting it sent would incur an additional S&H charge. (The Georgia Z Club still has plenty of hats and shirts from the 25th anniversary convention. I have suggested to the president that he put them up for sale.) Also, if one checks the contact page for the convention, there is a Karen listed as being associated with the Z Island graphics. That leads me to believe that unless someone is pulling off an elaborate hoax, Karen, aka Venus, is essentially whom she says she is. IMHO, if anything, Karen is guilty of failing to get a good temperature of the types of conversation on this site before initiating her threads. Of course, long-term members are granted more lattitude on the topics they post to General Discussions merely because it's human nature to accept such behavior after one has been "accepted by the pack." I would love nothing more than to have these burger threads locked to cool the suspicion and defensiveness that they have engendered. Then Karen can have a chance to see more of what goes on here and maybe blend in better, if you so choose, Karen.

Leonard is right. Just replace everything, and that car can be saved.

Just wanted to mention that I received the speaker panels from Derek yesterday. They look really nice, and I can't wait to install them, especially since my speakers were installed redneck style by yours truly about 18 years ago.

The easiest thing to check is the right rear turn signal. Pull the bulbs out of the sockets, and compare the bottom of the bulb to where it makes contact in the socket. The turn signal/brake bulb should be a dual filament bulb. I think you may have a signal filament bulb in that socket. If so, replace it with an 1157 bulb.

A search on Xenon? It's in the reference section. It took me all of about 1 minute, and that was with typing in the address manually.

Jim, It is available at XenonS30. However, if you think you could do a higher quality scan, I would be interested. Steve

Look for the thread Sold on LEDs for more information.

As has been said by others, it's probably the water temperature sensor, but you never know what a previous owner might have installed.

When I swapped out the incandescent bulbs for LEDs, I installed electronic flashers for the hazard lights and turn signals. The lights blink at a normal rate, even with the car off. I used Bussmann 232 flasher units. I have no idea what is available in Holland, though. First, though, check the voltage at the flasher units to see if you have other problems at hand. Let us know what you find.

Try replacing the coil (and ballast resistor).

So, you don't know where it came from in the engine bay? How about posting a good picture of the sensor. Also clean up the wire so you can tell us the color of the wire.

Okay, I missed the part about it being intermittent. One thing to do would be to check the voltage going into the coil when it's giving you fits. The problem coming and going suggests heat cycling of some sort. Can you give more details on when the problem happens? Is it after driving a few miles? Stop & go traffic? More information would help. The "drop resistor" is also referred to a ballast resistor.

If you have a stock distributor with points, the gap and dwell could be off.

Book mark this site. That way you can look up parts for compatibility purposes.

1. Yes 2. Don't know. Of all of the issues working on old cars, I have to admit that it has been lower on the list.

70-74 tanks lack baffles 75-76 tanks have baffles for fuel injection and large well for spare tire 77-78 tanks have baffles and small well for spare tire.

Right now, you have two options. Buy a used fusebox or buy the one from MSA. A 70 or 71 fusebox will work for you. As the wiring ages, corrosion builds and increases the current flowing through the circuit. However, instead of being a spike that would blow the fuse, it is a gradual heating that slowly does its damage. You'll also need to inspect the side markers and front turn signals for corrosion. The long term solutions are 1. Get a parking light relay harness. (Search) This reduces the current burden through the switch, too. 2. Replace the incandescent bulbs with LED lights. This can dramatically drop the current through the circuit. 3. Both 1 & 2. Double your pleasure & double your fun. This topic has been covered extensively here and at Zcar.com. Do some searching if you want more details. You might also want to put the year of the car having the problem in your post. That way you will tend to get more specific responses.

Dan, here is a picture of the fusible link on my 73. I bought this link from Mike McGinnis at Banzai Motorworks.

You might need to attach a larger picture. I can barely see that one myself.

You could bring the car over to my house tomorrow or next weekend. and we could dig it out. Look at page BE-3. The connector is the one on the far right of the dash. There is an arrow going to #10. If you trace that wire, you'll see it go to the relay on the right side of the board. Send me a PM if you want some help.

Please keep in mind that ZBarn is NOT Roger's primary job, so sometimes it goes on the back burner.