SteveJ

This is the page he's talking about: http://www.blackdragonauto.com/icatalog/zr/full.aspx?Page=16 I think the attached picture shows things better for what he's trying to describe. Tommy, I'm trying to remember what the inside of the door looks like. It's been a while since I was digging into it. I think the plastic piece clamps to the rod. If the plastic piece is not near the top of the rod, try putting it back into place. If the plastic piece is broken, I'm not sure if/where you could get a replacement without buying a new handle. Anyone else is free to jump in to clarify or correct anything I wrote.

Thanks. That gives me an idea of what to look for. I do have a batch of black POM rivets that I will try when I put the big LEDs in my 73.

Rockauto can give you very good pricing as long as you're careful about S & H charges.

Start here. That will give you a break down on the parts.

I know the S30 FSMs have a good troubleshooting guide for the rear ends. The S130 FSM might have one, too. If you need a copy, go to http://www.xenons130.com. Also, make sure all of the bolts are still on and tight. They can back off. Bolts are also a lot less expensive than half shafts.

Jumping the car to start it is more like a dying or dead battery. A bad battery CAN read 12 volts with the car off. If the battery voltage drops dramatically when putting the key in the ON position or trying to start the car, that is a good indication of a bad battery.

Okay, share. Was there a brand, Leonard?

Ron, can you post the measurements here just in case I need them? Thanks!

It should lift straight up. Look at the pictures in this post. That's how the bottom of the distributor should look.

Listen to Sarah. Spend some time and a little money to diagnose the problem rather than throw parts at the problem. It's a lot cheaper to do the former. Also, check out Blue's tech tips. You'll find a copy of the Fuel Injection Bible. I've heard it's a must have for 280Z owners.

Jeff, I'm expecting a ZX distributor delivered some time next week. If you don't have an answer before then, I'll compare what I bought to yours.

*Sigh* Don't remind me of that. I have some equipment that I have to work on in various parts of Ontario province. I'm just hoping it holds off until late spring.

Have you looked at the FSM for info? Find it at http://www.xenons130.com

I haven't dug that far into my cars. Could they be regular POM rivets?

Dave, if we took that view on other things, most of us wouldn't own Z cars.

Yes, at -70F it will instantly damage skin.

In all honesty, yes, you are making it difficult. I took a few seconds to look at my fuse box with a measuring tape. From that and the link I put in my second response, I can select the correct type fuse. Try it.

I am planning on replacing that seal soon myself. I was planning "under" to prevent it from being pulled loose.

A common place for a wire to short to ground would be where it passes through a hole in the sheet metal. If the grommet is missing, the wires can rub against the metal. It's interesting that it didn't take out the fuse if it was shorting.

1. Conventional wisdom is to replace the alternator and regulator as a pair. 2. Don't use the voltage gauge as anything more than an approximation unless you get it calibrated. 3. Don't forget to check your fusible links, too.

Fuse info Fuse vendors It's only as difficult as you want to make it on yourself.

Now that I think about it, my first guess probably isn't right. IIRC, in the ON position, the fuel pump has power only with oil pressure. I have to stop posting when I get this tired.

From the very limited description my first guess is that the fuel pressure is bleeding down when the car is off. Putting the key in the RUN position allows the fuel pump to build pressure. I believe that if you go through the fuel injection bible that can be found in Blue's tech tips (link below), you will find information on that. I don't have much knowledge about the Z's fuel injection, but I'm pretty sure there is a check valve to maintain pressure when the car is off.

SFE fuses are different lengths according to the fuse ratings (size rejection). ACG fuses are all the same length (1.25 in) regardless of fuse rating. I didn't find it in the BE section of the FSM, but I think that you'll find that the fuses are all the same length, and therefore are ACG.

NGK heat range tech article