SteveJ

1. Conventional wisdom is to replace the alternator and regulator as a pair. 2. Don't use the voltage gauge as anything more than an approximation unless you get it calibrated. 3. Don't forget to check your fusible links, too.

Fuse info Fuse vendors It's only as difficult as you want to make it on yourself.

Now that I think about it, my first guess probably isn't right. IIRC, in the ON position, the fuel pump has power only with oil pressure. I have to stop posting when I get this tired.

From the very limited description my first guess is that the fuel pressure is bleeding down when the car is off. Putting the key in the RUN position allows the fuel pump to build pressure. I believe that if you go through the fuel injection bible that can be found in Blue's tech tips (link below), you will find information on that. I don't have much knowledge about the Z's fuel injection, but I'm pretty sure there is a check valve to maintain pressure when the car is off.

SFE fuses are different lengths according to the fuse ratings (size rejection). ACG fuses are all the same length (1.25 in) regardless of fuse rating. I didn't find it in the BE section of the FSM, but I think that you'll find that the fuses are all the same length, and therefore are ACG.

NGK heat range tech article

Jamie, it won't matter about the alternator. Just get with me when you're ready to install the gauge. I can help you wire it.

Click on the Classifieds link above.

For the battery, get a trickle charger to maintain its health in the winter.

Yeah, there's nothing like a strut coming apart. One time I had the wrong size spring compressor on a strut. As I compressed the spring to put the strut back together, the spring sprung. I could have been severely injured, but fortunately it hit me in the head. Needless to say, when I resumed work on that strut, I carefully inspected the spring compressor to ensure it was the right size.

As E wrote, you only need the electrical portion. If you REALLY want to replace the whole thing, the link I gave has about the best price I found. Of course, I just now looked on Amazon. I bought this for my 260Z last year, and the priced has dropped to $61 and is eligible for free shipping.

$70 for keys and all from eBay. You can get the electrical part of the switch from MSA and others in the $35 to $40 range.

Contact Dave, aka Zs-ondabrain. If the switch can be rebuilt, he can probably do it. Oh, and don't forget to search eBay.

Why are you looking to put on carburetors? Is there something really wrong with the fuel injection?

So does that mean you've made some progress, or are you just waiting until I can make it down your way?

Okay, that's bringing back memories. I think I used an impact wrench the last time I did struts.

Some states will allow you to run old plates that match the year of your car's production. Those plates have the year stamped on the plate. Alabama used to change the color of the plates each year, too.

It has been a few years since I've pulled the struts off of any car, but IIRC, I usually break the nut loose before compressing the spring.

Dan, There is a fusible link. It comes off of the starter. That being said, follow Dave's advice carefully.

Mike, if you get rid of your flat tops, let me know. I might take them off of your hands.

I'm already planning my vacation...

Despite the widespread hatred for the flat-tops, I have to say that they haven't given me any problems in the three years I've had my 260Z.

Basically in your car, the headlight switch completes the ground for the headlights. As Sarah said, that causes a lot of stress on the switch contacts. Please note that there is not a relay in the stock configuration. Your test results indicate that the switch in your car isn't working. While WD-40 or contact cleaner might remove some of the build up on the contact, it may require disassembly and light sanding with emory paper to remove enough debris to ensure good contacts on the switch.

Note: the 260Z/280Z taillights have the reverse lights separate from the rest of the lights. If you want to put in the 240Z taillights, there is also some fabrication. Remember to inspect carefully under the car for signs of rust. If you go to Zhome.com, you can find good advice on inspecting a car. The car you linked does look nice in the pictures, though.

The results look good to me so far. Boy, that gives me some ideas for some other projects.