SteveJ

Click on the link in my previous post.

It's called a dogleg because it resembles the angle of a dog's rear leg when it is sitting down. Attached is a picture of a dogleg taken from Pg 21 of the current Black Dragon Automotive catalog.

I will say that in defense of the old guard at Zcar.com, I found many answers just by searching that site. Also, I once chastised someone for asking for spoonfeeding since it took only a few minutes to search for his answer using terms from his post. This was despite the fact that he claimed he searched and could find nothing. It seems like the newbs flock to Zcar.com first, get their spankings, learn some etiquette, and find sites like this. Note: Tony D, one of my favorite straight-talkers, pointed out that Zcar.com gets flooded with lazy newbs around the time of high school breaks (Summer, Christmas, Spring Break). I haven't seen anything there to prove him wrong on that.

Frank, Where in Georgia are you? The Mitty is coming up 30 Apr - 2 Mar. There should be a lot of Z cars and other classic Datsuns there.

Oh, stop being such a weakling. Why before the internet, we had to walk 5 miles in the snow, uphill both ways, while a hurricane was raging above us, just to get some information on our Z cars. Dang Europeans.

I did not attempt to fit the retractor into the depression. It is not designed to do that. The retractor is mounted at the roof. It is not near my head that I perceive.

IMHO, I found a good replacement. I described it here. It's easy to install, no drilling, etc., and it has the sleeves for the center buckles.

Dave, Could you share the name brands of the products you used (paint & epoxy)? I wouldn't mind experimenting some, too. Thanks, Steve

Actually, I was thinking that you have to be careful. If you scrub your rear end too hard with a wire brush, it might keep you from being able to drive your Z.

What do you hope to gain from a dual Webber conversion? I've had both SUs and Webbers, and I didn't really find any value added to having the Webbers.

I think I see a theme developing here...

My first thought is a parts washer and wire brushes to get the gunk off.

Read this book.

Mine does, too, but he sure enjoys my cars (87 Supra Turbo, Mazdaspeed6, & Z cars).

I found some interesting links on Google using the words turbo and carburettor. It might help you in your research

Ah, carburettors are a different kettle of fish. You'll need to do some research on which side of the carburettors you'll put the turbo. I haven't looked into that in years, and I can't remember which is preferrable if either. You might still need to pump up the fuel pressure some. After you do the research and have definitive questions to ask, Tony D might be a good resource. Years and year ago, kits were available, but I don't think you'll be able to find one easily. Jim Wolf had a supercharger kit in the catalog years ago, but I haven't even tried to see if it's still there. I'm not even sure they had it available when it was in the catalog. Something tells me that the intake will be among your biggest challenges.

Never having taken on such an endeavor in the past, I don't know the details. However, one of the most important questions is "What is your budget?" That will dictate many of the details. You'll probably need to drop the compression. This could come from using dished pistons and a thicker (metal) headgasket. Other suggestions include (but are not limited to) Turbo oil pump (from the Turbo 280ZX) Electronic ignition Megasquirt or other aftermarket fuel injection Intake manifold with ports for injectors 75 280Z gas tank or surge tank Higher pressure fuel pump Blocking plate for the removal of the mechanical fuel pump Turbo exhaust manifold R200 differential

Excellent choice, Mark.

It's less than 2 months until the Mitty. Please let me know if you're planning on attending, so we can count you among the throngs of Datsun lovers in our group. I'm working with GRM to get the group treatment including parade lap(s), etc. Also, one of the Georgia Z Club members reminded me that HSR & SVRA are parting ways, so this could be the last time pre 1980 cars are running at the Mitty. That's sad news for all of us who love to see classic cars racing.

FYI, I drew most of my knowledge of the system straight from the FSM. The description starts on page BE-90. The switch was on the right side of the engine bay. I don't know if you'll find many unmolested examples out there since the whole system was a miserable failure.

This one is a few hours away, but it might merit looking at. http://macon.craigslist.org/cto/1618834051.html

That's even more reason to go with the belts I put into my 74. One end mounts to the floor, and the end with the retractor mounts at the shoulder position. The belts pull out more easily than the ones sold by MSA. (I have that type in my 73.)

Cool. That is different (provided the belts were stored well). Unfortunately, I think you'll find that the retractor mechanisms for the 280Z belts won't work for the anchor points in the 70. (I'm assuming you're talking about your 70.) While the aftermarket belts won't have the Nissan logos, they are a drop-in replacement. If you don't need the belts for your 280Z, you might try to sell them here or on E-bay to finance some aftermarket belts.

Okay, I'll bite. Why do you want to put 30+ year old seatbelts into your car? The webbing suffers over the years and can't stretch like it could when new. You can find aftermarket belts with new webbing and retractors that will fit better than seatbelts from a 280Z. These seatbelts require absolutely NO drilling, tapping, cutting, slicing, dicing, etc. It doesn't take long to replace the belts, either. Just search this site. I've replace the belts in both of my Z cars, the last time was only a couple of months ago. Steve

Actually, if you're having a wiring problem that you don't think you've seen a solution for, post a description of your problem here. There are several of us here who can help. Also, be sure to download the FSM. It does have some good troubleshooting information. When describing the problem be sure to include when possible: 1. Was the engine running or stopped? 2. What position was the key in? 3. Measurements of voltage, current, continuity, or resistance. Also, you'll need at least a noid light. A decent multimeter will provide more useful information. You can get one that will do most of what you need at Walmart for about $20. If you don't know how to use a multimeter, there are guides online. All you have to do is Google. Sometimes you'll find a wire has broken or corroded at a connector. I find that typical solderless terminals for male/female connections will work. I like crimping terminals onto wires with a crimping tool like this. There are also kits for terminals available online. Here is one of the better ones: Vintage Connections. If you're having problems with headlights or turn signals, you'll want to look into Dave's (Zs-ondabrain) relay systems. I believe they are available through MSA, too. If you have trouble maintaining the electrical system in your car, you might find that putting in a new one introduces a brand new set of headaches, and since the wiring won't be common to the rest of our cars, you'll be decreasing the amount of support you have.