SteveJ

Bryan, If you have a garage, you may be interested in something like Duplicolor Paint Shop. I'm thinking of using it on my Z.

Did you also examine the sockets and wiring to the sockets for corrosion?

This might be a more economical alternative: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/shifterbushing/index.html

"whizzbangery meters", I've never heard a multimeter described that way before. Adjusting the voltage regulator isn't any more difficult than adjusting the valves. I just didn't feel like transcribing the FSM or Haynes manual. I'm getting old and lazy. Anyway, if you have a Harbor Freight around, it's easy to find multimeters for $4 when they go on sale. It's good to throw one in the tool bin for a 30+ year old car. I have also heard what Nissanman said that disconnecting the battery from the car while it is running is bad mojo.

The voltage regulator can be tuned. Look in the FSM or Haynes manual for details.

What are the colors of the wires?

In addition to what Carl said, I believe I have seen threads over at Zcar.com where people have used Z31 alternators. I don't think they needed to mod the bracket, but they would have still needed to jumper out the voltage regulator.

It's hard to tell from subjective evaluations. Break out a meter and take measurements. What is the battery voltage with the car off? What is the voltage across the battery terminals at idle? What is the current flow with the car off? What is the voltage across the battery terminals at 3000 RPM? (Since you say it dies after revving the motor)

Basic information can be found here. Spend most of your money in getting one close to top condition as possible. You may even consider buying one on the West Coast and driving it back. The air fare is less than the cost of fixing a rusty Z.

300ZX seats are not a drop in replacement no matter if it's a Z31 or Z32.

First, define what you mean by overheating. 1. Was the temperature gauge reading high? 2. Was coolant coming out of the radiator? 3. Were you seeing steam coming from the engine/cooling system? If your answer was #1, have you checked the temperature with a candy/cooking thermometer? You start with the engine cold and let it idle. You should see a good bump in the temperature when the thermostat opens. How old are your thermostat and radiator cap? When was the last time you changed your coolant? Could your radiator be plugged? Have you tried to flush your cooling system?

You could send a copy to Carfiche.com.

I'm curious about two things. 1. What do you mean by better? It's not a complicated wiring system. 2. What are you trying to do to/with the electrical system? Maybe someone here can help you.

Try Cooper Tire. I found the size you wanted on their website. http://www.coopertire.com/html/tireselector_bySize.aspx?twtd=215&artw=60&rd=14

Corrosion is causing your problem, possibly assisted by wear in your combination switch. Solutions: Clean all of the connectors in the circuit and the combination switch. Cleaning the combination switch requires disassembly and cursing as you find all of the little parts that popped out. You'll also need to examine your fusebox for corrosion. Try the parking light harness upgrade advertised by Zs-ondabrain at http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20151. While it won't fix the problems with corrosion, it reduces the impact.

I looked at my car. Yes, it's pretty much plug and play.

IIRC, it was all plug and play to drop in the interally regulated alternator (well, except for the conflict between the internal and external regulator and the fact that you need to install diodes to prevent feedback that will cause run-on, but I digress). I'll try to remember to look at my car tonight to verify. What is the rated output on your new alternator?

Yes. In my case, the voltage peaked somewhere around 18 volts. That's what happens when you do parts replacements/upgrades without the proper research.

First, get a voltmeter and take measurements. Let us know what the results are. Second, are you sure you got an alternator that is not internally regulated? Third, what were the circumstances that necessitated changing out the alternator, regulator and battery?

Which is better, something local or the right part?

One of the key things the owner of a vintage car should have is an electrical meter. It's too inexpensive to do without.

You may want to post your events in a chronological fashion. What happened and when? It's a little confusing to see tidbits of information scattered about. Since you say your new battery won't start the car, have you checked your fusible links?

Gosh, it seems like so many people are quick to pull fuses. What fails "on"? For the life of me, I can't think of anything. Something close might be a short in the ignition switch that makes it where you're not cutting off power when you turn off the car. The fuse pulling method is needed ONLY after eliminating the charging system as the culprit. Next, instead of pulling fuses willy-nilly, focus on systems that have changed such as a new stereo/amplifier, a car alarm, or other electrical accessory that has been added. Also check the stupid stuff like the dome light and glove box light. If the glove box door isn't closed and the bulb is good, it will drain the battery.

Of course, the charging system itself can drain the battery. About 12 years ago, I was having problems with the battery draining. A friend suggested checking the voltage regulator. Sure enough, the current draw stopped as soon as I removed the voltage regulator. I replaced it and never worried about it again.