SteveJ

Inspect any vent hoses and the filler tube.

Even with how scarce Z cars can be, £2500 sounds pretty expensive, especially considering how much you say already needs to be done. I'm not sure how well set the interior parts market is outside of America, but in this country we strip a lot of old Z cars for parts. Why do you say those parts need to be replaced? Are they in bad shape, or are they missing? What year 260Z? (imhoppy - this poster gave the price in pounds, so most likely he is outside of the US.) Look for rust, rust, and more rust. Typical places include the following: floor boards frame rails (They run almost the length of the car from the firewall back to the rear suspension.) battery tray (battery acid and metal just don't mix) rear hatch spare tire well lower panels wheel wells doors. If the car hasn't run in a while, you can almost be guaranteed that you'll have to clean out the fuel lines and possibly have the inside of the gas tank recoated. Unless you have ample room to disassemble the car (in a covered area) or you have a big pocketbook to pay someone to store & work on the car, you might want to take a pass on a car requiring a lot of work.

He's in Colorado.

Wow, 5 years have already elapsed since you posted the same questions over at ZCar.com. You might as well sell it to someone who needs it for parts. Price it at $500. Maybe you'll get lucky.

If you watch the different boards, you'll see that you don't see the people outside of the US ever use "boat anchor" or some similar term for the carburetors. We Americans were pretty much alone with that privilege at that time. I didn't forget about the carburetors on the 73. I have also seen posts claiming that using the right techniques, the 73 carburetors were quite usable, too. My main point was that an American 280Z owner was making comments that did not apply to the original question. Given that the poster already was publishing erroneous information, I was curious about where the rest of the "knowledge" originated, especially since it appeared to be a blanket statement applying to all 240Zs.

Of course, since the post is in the Australia forum, it's safe to bet that the first author is in Australia. Given that, it would be difficult to impossible to find a 1975 to 1978 Z, since Datsun kept the 2.6 Liter engine in non-US markets until the 280ZX. By the way, where did you hear that the 240 had some problems with the carburetors? Do you have anything to qualify that remark?

Carl, GRM started Classic Motorsport Magazine so they could concentrate the focus of both publications. GRM was going to focus on "newer" cars (less than 15 years old IIRC) while Classic Motorsport was intended to focus on older cars. I haven't purchased GRM since the split, so I don't know if the division still stands.

Beandip, according to what I've read on Zcar.com, early 280Z doors will work. I believe the cut-off was around the 76-77 model year change.

Let's go back to the basics. Have you inspected your wiring harness? Is the harness completely original and unmolested? Did you or a previous owner ever install an alarm system? For your turn signals, have you inspected all of the parking light and turn signal sockets for corrosion?

Check your connections. Given that you said you did an engine rebuild, I would guess that you had at least part of your wiring harness disconnected. You could have had a corroded connector in the wiring harness. You can find an image of the wiring harness here http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electrical.htm Look for the connectors along the route of the wire for the high beams and see if any are pulled out, corroded, etc. You'll want to trace a red wire with a blue stripe.

Just to clarify a few things... To truly protect your lungs from dust from grinding, fibers from fiberglass, etc. (aka particulates), you need at least a half-face respirator using a P100 cartridge. The mask must be the right size, and you have to adjust the straps properly, too. As for the manufacturer, 3M, MSA, Scott, Willson, Draeger, North, Survivair, and AOSafety are all companies that are likely to be around for a while. If you want to filter out the vapor from fiberglass resins, you can also probably find a combination organic vapor/P100 filter. Remember that you need to match the manufacturer of the filter to the manufacturer of the respirator. Some others mentioned paints that contain isocyanates. Cyanide poisoning isn't what you need to be worried about. Isocyanates will sensitize your respiratory system, and you could experience anaphylactic shock (like with a bee sting), choking you to death. I haven't looked at the Material Safety Data Sheets (MSDSs) from many automotive paints to see if they contain isocyanates. They are correct in that you need supplied air for spraying isocyanates. You also have to make sure you are not pulling the air from anywhere that could be contaminated by the isocyanates as they get into the air. Above all, carefully read the MSDS for the paint. You can usually get a copy of it just by emailing the manufacturer. Depending upon the paint you are using and where you are painting, you might be able to use a full face respirator with an organic vapor cartridge. A prefilter may also help prevent the filter from clogging. You have to make sure you have adequate ventilation. This prevents displacing the oxygen in the room, and it prevents you from building up a high enough concentration of the organic solvent and overwhelming the respirator. As with the half face respirator, you must choose the right size respirator, or it will leak. Be sure you store your mask in a clean area, preferably in a plastic bag to prevent contamination. You also need to know how to clean your respirator and maintain it, unless you plan on using only disposable respirators. Also, don't paint in your garage if you have a water heater there, especially a gas-powered water heater. You can find a variety of respirators and filters at Lab Safety (http://www.lss.com). They even have a fit-test kit available for $45. I have worked on respiratory protection programs for over 11 years. If you have any questions, feel free to send me a PM.

I have not had any luck.

I just ordered the one listed in VB. It looked to be the same size as mine, and it's been working fine.

Check your EGR valve. Clean/replace as necessary.

Mike's advice is spot on. I looked at a Z car owned by a young gentleman who lives near me. I pointed out several things to him that should be worked on to correct big safety problems. Hook up with with a veteran. You can learn from all of our mistakes!

If you want an earlier air cleaner, I have an extra that I'll let you have for $10 (that includes shipping). It doesn't look great, but it will work. Steve

What's wrong with printing the pages from a CD, putting them into page protectors, and wiping the page protectors clean when they get greasy? That way you can read the pages again the next time.

According to Z Car Creations (http://www.zcarcreations.com/cdman/cdman.htm), the 70 FSM should be available on CD. However, the Courtesy Nissan site (http://www.courtesyparts.com/secondtier_s30.html) does not list it. You may try contacting both of them.

Check your U-joints, too.

Carl, when are you going to write the next definitive book on Z cars? Most of the time when I'm trying to find an answer to somebody's question on Z cars, I end up referencing your site. For instance, I used your page on performance numbers drawn from car magazines to refute the argument that the 280ZX was a fat pig compared to the 280Z. Okay, so it might not make you a lot of money, but it would certainly stir conversations within the community.

Yeah, the biodiesel 240Z has been around for a couple of years. The guy who built it sold the car, probably to go do other projects. If you search on ZCar.com, you'll find posts on it.

Jay, don't worry about the tach reading. Have someone rev the engine while you're taking voltage readings.

Perhaps it would have been better if I said "overvoltage". In my more Z ignorant times (I'm still Z ignorant, just less so than 5 years ago.), I installed an interally regulated alternator in my car without knowing it was internally regulated. I bolted it in, started up the car, and blew out one of my headlights. OOPS!!! I checked the voltage at the battery with the car running, and it was at about 19 volts. So, I quickly got online, did the research that I should have done in the beginning, and found the solution. Now, if Jay is running the "double regulated" electrical system long enough, perhaps it is causing the electrolyte in the battery to boil, and the overpressure is popping off the battery caps.

Jay, You said you replaced the alternator, right? If so, there is always the possibility you were sold an internally regulated alternator, especially if you just told the guy at the parts counter that it's a 280Z. The internally regulated alternators started with the 78 280Z. If that is the case, that would cause the overcharging problem you seem to be experiencing.

Read this thread for ideas: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19118