SteveJ

Over at http://www.zcar.com, there is a user who goes by the name Scottie-GNZ. He transplanted the motor from a Buick Grand National into his Z. He might be hanging out at Hybridz, too, but I wouldn't know because I'm not much of a hybridz type.

Corrosion is frequently the culprit. Check the usual suspects: Sockets (clean with emery cloth) Combo switch Fuse box Additionally make sure you have a good blinker unit. I had a part in mine to amplify the click. It drew too much, and slowed the blinkers to almost nothing. Removing it improved things. Replacing the blinker unit took care of the rest.

Harbor Freight's engine stands: http://order.harborfreight.com/EasyAsk/harborfreight/results.jsp

Try Courtesy Nissan. They bend over backwards to help the Z car community, and they will ship the part to you.

You could also buy some flat pavers from Home Depot or Lowe's. They have flat, wide pavers that you could drive on. You could also buy some ramps and park your car on them while you pull your engine.

I second what Randy said. A friend had a problem with maintaining a charge. The parts place tested the alternator and said it was fine (internally regulated). I didn't buy the diagnosis and convinced the friend that we should replace the alternator. The problem went away.

Contact PrOxLaMuS©. He's a user on this site. He converted the fusible links in his Z to the Maxifuse block.

Here's a possible answer: http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/probs.html It was what I experienced. Look for "Fuses Keep Melting". (Edited to clarify text to search for)

Here is some more info on Z car aerodynamics: http://www.zcar.com/forums/read.php?f=1&i=130822&t=130148#reply_130822. And I found something on belly pans, too: http://www.zcar.com/forums/read.php?f=1&i=590718&t=590400.

I suggest doing a proper diagnosis on the problem. Use an ammeter to find out the current draw. Use one that can measure up to 10 Amps. No, you shouldn't be drawing that much current, but many meters have a maximum of 1 Amp or less while your car could be drawing over 1 Amp. Disconnect the positive cable from the battery. Touch the positive lead of the meter to the positive terminal of the battery and the negative lead to the battery cable. Ideally, you should be measuring only a few milliamps. Now, eliminate the easy stuff first. 1. Unplug the voltage regulator and re-measure the current. If the reading drops significantly, replace the regulator or attempt to adjust the regulator if you like. 2. Make sure your glovebox light is not on as well as other constant power systems. Yes, I've drained a battery that way. 3. Disconnect the constant power on the stereo and re-measure. If the current reading stays high after those steps, start pulling fuses until the current drops.

On the Zcar.com website, the consensus is that the S30 is as aerodynamic as a brick. Search on that site for LSR. Tony D has taken his 280Z 2+2 with a G-nose up to 178. Without a G-nose, you will hit a brick wall well before that. Considering the profile of the nose of the S30, I wouldn't be surprised if it created lift at higher speeds. As for seerex's trooper clocking him at 142, I don't have much faith in the police radar between the level of sophistication of the units and the level of sophistication of the user (policeman). Jon - Do you have an online reference for your calculation? I thought the coefficient of drag would affect the top speed more. FYI: According to this post (http://www.zcar.com/forums/read.php?f=1&i=396183&t=396034) the Cd is 0.43. (Post edited due to finding the Cd.)

Define less. Read these links with regard to net and gross horsepower: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Horsepower http://neptune.spacebears.com/opine/horsepwr.html I'm not sure when Nissan started using SAE net horsepower for rating their engines, but I know that the 2.4L is a gross horsepower rating.

Thanks for the heads up. I will try to make it.

I've only ever seen one fusible link on the 240Z. It is available from Banzaii Motorworks.

Courtesy Nissan has NOS center consoles at a very good price.

Short term solution is to bookmark this site: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/ You'll find a wiring diagram for the 78 there. Long term solution is to get a factory service manual. Look for them on eBay, buy the CD at http://www.courtesyparts.com or try your local Nissan dealer (sometimes you get lucky). The FSM will have pictures of some of the wiring, especially connectors. Don't own a Z without it.

********Wild Speculation Alert************ I have no idea of the duty cycle of the fuel injection system for the Z car. However, could this be a case of the injectors firing so often combined with the current draw of the ignition system? If you didn't upgrade the alternator with the engine, it could be the case. Also, what is the normal voltage at the battery at idle? Your voltage regulator might not be adjusted properly.

I think there are a few counties in remote parts of California that don't require smog testing. Of course, you could just move out of state, period.

For easier location of parts and better information on repairs, I suggest that you look into getting a factory service manual. You can purchase it electronically from Courtesy Nissan at http://www.courtesyparts.com/secondtier_s30.html. Good luck.

It could be worse. A loose battery started an electrical fire in my Z once. Fortunately I had my fire extinguisher handy.

No, you're not missing anything. Some people go with sequential injection when they go to a system like a MegaSquirt.

Yes, batch fired means that they are fired all at the same time. No, the 280Z does not use sequential firing.

Go to this site, http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/EFI&fuel.htm. Among items of interest are the Fuel Injection Bible and EFI Overview.