SteveJ

@Zed Head, I forgot to mention that in the video I described your method for getting the clevis pin back into place.

I don't maintain much of a stock of Nissan parts, but there are many parts I keep in stock, either for my cars or to help other people with their cars. I did buy a bunch of combo switches about 10 years ago that I have used for parts and to help others keep their Zs lit up. Then again, I'm not striving to do a restoration like yours. I am more of a person who enjoys keeping them running.

So I noticed a post on Zcar.com asking about finding a shop in the Atlanta area. The owner bought a non-running 280Z, and the previous owner said the car ran fine and suddenly died one day. The PO fired the parts cannon and replaced the fuel pump to no avail. Isn't it funny how the parts cannon doesn't hit the target very often? Fortunately for this 280Z, the new owner is willing to listen to diagnostics and test. First was to see if the car would fire. Yes, it ran on starting fluid. Next establish that the fuel pump runs. Yes, it has fuel pressure, but it's a little low. Constricting the return will build the pressure though. After that check the injectors. Negative on the noid light. At this point I wanted him to check for voltage at the injectors, but he started moving through the fuel injection Bible. Okay, he found some issues, but not the one that was keeping the car from starting. I pushed him again to check the EFI fusible link, and he texted me about finding a loose wire near the battery positive. He reconnected the fusible link and a couple of minutes later he sent me a text of a running L28. This year is off to a good start for me. I hope there is a lot of that to go around this year.

Here's the video on changing the master and slave cylinders. I hope it helps someone in the future.

Yesterday, when I put the car on the ground and tested the clutch, it had some resistance, but it wouldn't go into gear. I talked to my friend who suggested extending the rod some more, and he told me how to do it without removing the clevis pin and pulling out the master. I used a set of pliers to turn the actuator rod about 1/32 of a turn at a time until I had it about all of the way it would travel on the yoke. Sure enough, the clutch would disengage. Today, I was at a car meet, and a friend showed up in his GT-350. He said he was going to bring his 240Z, but the clutch pedal went straight to the floor. Doesn't that sound familiar? That inspired me to edit the video I shot, and I shot a couple of more snippets for it today to go more in depth on the rod length and to add a blurb on @Zed Head's solution for the clevis pin. Since I didn't cut much out of the process, the video is long (over an hour), but I'm hoping it helps someone in the future. I'll post a link tomorrow after it's online.

First car meet of the year And Cousin Eddie showed up

There is wiring in the 240Z for an electric fuel pump. In the center stack, there is a 2 pin T connector. One wire is black/white (ignition), and the other is green. The green goes out to the fuel pump. The intent was for the other part of the connector to be wired with an inline fuse to power the pump. However, if you ever get tempted to install an electric pump, I advise including an inertia switch inline with the fuse to cut power to the pump in the event of an accident.

I love it. Now if I could remember that the next time I remove one. Fortunately reinstalling the clevis pin was easier with the car on Quickjacks. I could kneel down next to the car and look in as opposed having to crawl into the footwell on my back. I did a gravity bleed this time and saw a nice slug of air get pushed through. After that the wife operated the clutch pedal while I finished the bleeding process. I think there is good pedal feel with noticeable travel by the clutch fork, and I'll test tomorrow to confirm.

After another failed attempt to bleed, I consulted a friend who confirmed my worst fear. The actuating rod on the MC was too short. Why was that my worst fear? It means I have to try to put the clevis pin back in the *#&$ hole again. I'm not sure my body can take it. I swapped the rods between the old and new MC and bolted the new MC back into place...again. Now to go back out to the garage and take my lumps as I wrestle to put the clevis pin back in. *Sigh*

Well, I shot some video to watch the slave cylinder while I pushed on the clutch. No pressure, and no movement. I guess I'll try again tomorrow. 😒

I had to replace the master and slave cylinders on the 240Z, so I shot some video. I have to put it together now. Unfortunately one of the cameras wasn't recording when I thought it was. I need to check the other camera, as well. On the other hand, I did try my hand at reverse bleeding on the clutch, pushing the fluid up through the slave. It took a while, but the reservoir on the master did fill. So I have to check tomorrow to see if I have good clutch feel. Eventually, I'll get the video put together, too.

I was just starting the work on the 240Z master and slave cylinders when I heard a truck pull up in the driveway. I went out to investigate and found out it was a delivery from MSA.

That's not a bad thing to confirm.

Actually that is not correct. The socket for the high beam indicator is not grounded on the gauge like the gauge lights. It has two wires as I described in post #4 on this thread. It would more likely be the connector not plugged in completely between the dash harness and the socket.

It's easy to figure out. Actually when @240260280 showed me how to do a valve adjustment, there were some lock nuts so tight, both of us were pulling on the wrench to break them loose. I think @Carl Beck has posted in the past about using a brass hammer to help the wrench to encourage the lock nuts to turn.

By the way, did anybody notice around the 7:20 mark when I realized that I had not tightened a bolt the previous day? That was why I made sure I hit everything with the torque wrench at the end.

I can't say for sure, but I'm thinking that if you torque in the air, that will twist the bushing upward on each side when the car is on the ground. When the suspension gets loaded further, it may be twisting more than the compliance of the bushing. When torqued with weight on the wheel, the suspension is in a neutral position, so the bushing can twist in either direction as the suspension is loaded or unloaded during driving. Too bad John Coffey is no longer around to give the full answer. 😞

It's simple. I have the ramps, and I trust them more than the old cinder blocks I have. I also REALLY appreciate the increased room I have under the car with the ramps. I'm not exactly svelte. I keep looking at the dead blow hammers at Harbor Freight. It's about time I get one. It's not like it would break my budget.

This also this listing on ebay. I don't know if he would ship to Germany. https://www.ebay.com/itm/301847950526

I could have used a rubber mallet if I had just been willing to crawl out from under the car and walk over to the workbench to get it. With my knees I have to economize on those trips.

https://zcardepot.com/products/front-lower-control-arm-bolt-240z-260z-280z

After I posted about changing out the inner bushings for the LCAs back in September, @Captain Obviousposed the question, "Did you remember to load the suspension before tightening the bolts?" If I had of bothered the RRTFM (That's re-read...), I maybe would have remembered. I figured that I should make a video of tightening the bolts since it may help someone figure out how they can do it. (Hint: Ramps!) I finally got around to editing it enough to post. This also gives you guys something to watch between unwrapping presents and watching football (or cooking the turkey/goose/ham/etc.). Merry Christmas!

We received notice from our power company to cut back today so the grid doesn't collapse. There is ice on the inside of the window in the bathroom from condensation running down to the bottom of the window. Fortunately we have a propane heater in case of emergency.

I was hoping you would stumble across this thread.