SteveJ

Do you have the polarity correct on the coil?

Show how everything is wired with clear, detailed photos. How did you test the plug for no spark? What is the voltage on the coil with the key in ON? What is the gap and dwell on the points?

On the other hand, I have a friend who has been using the Fast EFI for years, and this is a 280Z that he drives to every ZCON and a few other events, such as Branson ZFest, every year. He puts more miles on his 280Z than I do in my daily and other cars combined.

For the red washer, you could use a phenolic washer like this. https://www.amazon.com/a15112300ux0387-2mmx4mmx0-5mm-Motherboard-Insulating-Washers What is the diameter of the hole?

It looked fine to me.

I think this listing has one of the two: https://www.ebay.com/itm/176235020346 Full set here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/134841176467?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28 It looks like the seller is only about an hour away from you, too.

Here are photos of more of the stock style weatherstrip in my 260Z.

Well, the Kia seals are for the doors, not the hatch.

ZCON will be back in Nashville next year. I believe the ZCCA is doing Nashville as a 5 year rotation going forward.

But if someone converted that car to an internally regulated alternator, that person would have to disable fuel pump relay 1, or the battery would keep running down. The wiring would need to be modified to get power back to the fuel pump in that case.

Do you have the field modification for the electric fuel pump?

We need to determine if the field modification was made to the car and whether or not you have an internally regulated alternator. Field modification: Do you have one or more of these items? An electric fuel pump mounted at the gas tank The relays indicated in the drawing below (Look for the ones where I drew the arrows.) A wire branching off the black/yellow wire at the starter solenoid (Sorry, no picture available) Does the car have the stock alternator and voltage regulator? The voltage regulator is mounted to the passenger side fender near the alternator. If your car has the field modification, you should see the VR plugged into a 6 pin connector, and that has a short length of wire going to the engine harness. If you have both the stock alternator/VR and field modification, you have everything ready to wire up your electric fuel pump. If you don't, we can help you with Plan B.

But since it's a 73, it may be wired with the field modifications. That's why I want to get the OP to answer some questions about his car as opposed to throwing out a bunch of things.

The wiring is there in the back, but depending upon what has been done to the car over the years, getting power to the pump may be an issue.

You could use a Holley red - https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_pumps_regulators_and_filters/fuel_pumps/carbureted_fuel_pumps/carbureted_electric_fuel_pumps/parts/12-801-1 It would have enough flow. You should monitor the fuel pressure to determine whether or not you need a fuel pressure regulator to reduce the fuel pressure at the carburetors. You will need to mount the pump near the gas tank. The next thing to determine is whether or not the wiring is in place to power the fuel pump. Are you ready for a series of questions?

The mounting is different, too. You have to adapt the 260Z tach internals to the 240Z tach or adapt mounting brackets on the 260Z tach to mount it in the 240Z dash. The 240Z tach has studs on the left and right. The 260Z/280Z tach has a bracket at the bottom and a screw that goes through the top front of the gauge.

The 260Z and 280Z tachometers are interchangeable functionally.

But @kcpope jumpered out the ballast resistor, so maybe a higher impedance coil might help.

Look for vacuum leaks all around your intake.

There's a video for that. How it works on the wiring diagram: https://youtu.be/5eUMImOnfHc

Did you by the OEM version Z Car Depot sells, or did you buy the generic one. I'm pretty sure this is the Nissan part: https://zcardepot.com/products/ignition-switch-oem-240z-260z-280z-510?variant=19275160191089&currency=USD&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=google%2Bshopping&srsltid=AfmBOopH6VW3h4MxQaEG7pE62G-UpFxLVWe6672qDYb_WLqBrkGVJY-VnhA

Well for the bottom part, reach out to Junkyard Jenny. https://junkyardjenny.com/

https://zcardepot.com/products/door-latch-striker-catch-left-oem-240z-260z-280z-70-76?variant=39520640008305

My first guess would be a check valve issue with the fuel pump if it's a mechanical fuel pump.

Are you saying continuity by a meter tone or by a resistance reading of 0 (or almost zero)? Was the K18 relay plugged in? If not, did you just have the 1 jumper in between BY wires? Was the connector for the ignition switch connected to the switch, or was it off with no wires attached? The bottom line is that the BY wire is never grounded, but you have to make sure of your testing methods/conditions. If you don't control the methods/conditions properly, you can end up going down a rabbit hole. Been there. Done that. Many years ago I lost the fuse for the parking lights/gauge lights. In tracking down the short, I first guessed that it was probably around the gauges, and after unplugging the speedometer, the short went away. My method was flawed as the positive and negative wiring from the speedometer affected all of the gauges downstream. After realizing my mistake (and wasting about an hour or more), I resumed my search with a better methodology only to find that the positive wire for the light by the defroster switch (74 & later) had become detached from the socket. In other words, make sure you aren't shooting yourself in the foot.