SteveJ

I'm thinking probably not. There is still a Ger Brock automotive in Portland. https://gerbrock.com/ They talk about starting out at the address on the cover of that catalog you posted. They don't mention Peter in their history.

They look to be the same housings, and the Toyota kit was... $63.80 with tax and shipping, so it's just a little less than what Mr. Stern is asking (if you think $100+ is a little less). And as I mentioned before, the relay kit is included with the Toyota part number, but it would have to be worked on some to work with the Z.

It would be about as difficult as replacing a sealed beam headlight. Wait! There's a video for that...

Probably

It's relatively flat. That's not unusual for H4 housings.

A while back I found that there was an H4 headlight kit for the Toyota Land Cruiser that used Koito H4 housings. This got my attention since Koito supplied many bulbs to Nissan, including sealed beam headlights. The website I found with the best price said they were sold out, so I put myself on the waiting list. Earlier this week I saw a post on Facebook where someone said he bought this kit from Toyota for his Z cars and supplied a part number. Using that part number, I searched dealerships online that said they had the part. One of the dealerships is on the other side of town, so I pulled the trigger and ordered a set. The kit arrived today. It has a nice relay harness that I won't need. I am just after the H4 housings. I'll put H4 LED bulbs in them and install them in the 260Z. If you're interested in a set of Koito H4 housings, the Toyota part number for the kit is 81110-60P70.

Try ACE Hardware. Maybe Lowe's or Home Depot may have spring that would work.

@Captain Obvious, I remember we discussed this some after I posted the video of the fuel gauge bench test. Indirectly you can see the voltage regulator in that gauge start by watching the ammeter on the power supply I was using. When it was cold, the current was high, and then as it reached equilibrium you could see the current fluctuating as the VR pulsed.

Thank you. I didn't remember they had the same VR.

First, I misread the wiring diagram. It's the blue wire, not the green/white that provides power. I'm not sure what you're looking at to say C6. Page BE-32 shows the blue wire going through C5 and over to the 6 pin connector for the gauge. The ground wire goes through C1. I hope that helps to clear things up for you. Make sure you look at BE-32 and ask questions on it if you need to.

The headlight circuit wiring changed some time during 71 or between 71 and 72, I believe. The original circuit had the headlight switch completing the path to ground from the high/low beam switch as shown in the 70 and 71 FSM. In 72, the headlight switch controlled the wire going to the fuse box. (white/red to red wires) The high/low beam switch connected to the ground wire instead of going through the headlight switch. This later design was used for the rest of the S30 run. The change in the 260Z on is the type connector used at the headlights. I periodically search to see if anybody has found a source, but I haven't had any luck so far. Dave mentioned the wiring change in the headlight circuit to me many years ago, and I dug through the wiring diagrams to understand what he was saying.

The meters have a common power source and a common ground. Note: I removed removed the image from the post since I tagged the wrong wire for the positive side of the circuit. I should have tagged the blue wire going into the 6 pin connector. The black is the ground for the gauges. Inspect the pins on the male and female connectors, looking for loose connections and corrosion. Also look for damage on the wiring harness on the back of the gauge and on the dash harness. After you remove the gauge, you may also want to start the car and measure voltage between the green/white and black wires on the connector for the gauge.

I hope you used fuses smaller than 30 A. That high of a rating won't protect the wiring adequately in the event of a short circuit. Just to be specific, this diagram only works for the early 240Zs where the headlight switch completed the path to ground. The later cars would have to be wired differently than this.

Charging problems with two alternators first points to the voltage regulator, especially since you didn't say whether or not you changed it. Keep in mind that if the voltage regulator is original, it is adjustable. The EE section of the FSM has the procedure. In addition to the link @kickstand80provided, you can download the FSM from here: The EE section is available, but unfortunately some other sections are not. (This applies to either download site.) If the voltage regulator is not an OEM part, it's probably time to replace it. You should test the alternator first, as was suggested. It looks like MSA has the best price for a VR, https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/12-4083. You may want to bite the bullet and order it today so it ships before they are closed for the long weekend.

What year 280Z?

I bought a 4-speed shift knob off ebay, and the threads weren't right. I ended up reaming out the hole and using a threaded insert.

No, it's not a loose fit. You press it on.

You can certainly tell those seats were assembled and re-covered by someone with excellent skills.

No, it clamps onto the ridge around the doorframe, just like the stock weatherstrip.

I bought some generic door weatherstrip from Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NELWRJ4 I believe it worked well, and it installed easily. I go into more detail in my thread on waking up my 73.

I would be shocked if it did. There is only about 3 or 4 mm clearance above the fuses in the fusebox.

Yep, that's what I saw, too.

No, but then again, I didn't come across as an obtuse fool, and I'm willing to re-think things after I'm proven wrong.

It's better to keep as much of the original wires intact, but it's easy to "kill" the GW and BW wires in the engine bay, I outlined that earlier. However, Duffy was hindered by the evaporator on the aftermarket AC. The wiring suggestions I gave a couple of comments prior to this one would be easy to implement.

Here is the connection in my car of the GW and BW wires near the coil in the engine bay. The 2 pin connector in the center stack is easily identified by the T shape with BW and G wires connected to it.