SteveJ

I am assuming you are using the 4 pin HEI module. Also, I believe that is a blue wire on the ballast resistor. The W terminal gets the red wire off the distributor pickup. The G terminal gets the green wire off the distributor pickup. The black/blue (Ignition power for cranking) wire and black/white (Ignition wire for running) wire will get tied together and go to coil positive and to the B terminal on the HEI. The C terminal goes to coil negative, and you keep the blue wire on coil negative for your tach signal. References:

Heavier oil = richer mixture.

It's easy to make a smoke machine, too. And a slightly nicer way to describe it...

Well, my wife's car is blocking the garage door right now, but this is what it looks like inside the garage. There's only about 3 feet between the nose of the car and the tool chest. The cut-off seems pretty good, and I've never been flashed at night when I'm running low beams. The high beams have a nice spread of light.

I think maybe one person has reached out to me concerning a bulb failure, otherwise everyone who has provided me feedback on my suggestion has been very happy with the results.

After a quick search, I'm curious if they used a plier stapler: https://www.uline.com/Product/Detail/H-308/Staplers-and-Staples/Bostitch-Industrial-Plier-Stapler?pricode=WA9514&gadtype=pla&id=H-308&ad_group_id=169835542780&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21814877952&gbraid=0AAAAAD_uetOzGoheJpwHQfHqXe8QbIkot&gclid=Cj0KCQjwkrzPBhCqARIsAJN460nvoILBqjb3kApeJc9a0ZVcuQTu8H_xXvBRi93g54Z1csMgYPR7zYwaAl2bEALw_wcB And by plier stapler for manufacturing, I would think something like this instead: https://www.uline.com/Product/Detail/H-3068/Staplers-and-Staples/Uline-Pneumatic-Plier-Stapler?pricode=WA9511&gadtype=pla&id=H-3068&ad_group_id=169835544460&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21814877952&gbraid=0AAAAAD_uetOzGoheJpwHQfHqXe8QbIkot&gclid=Cj0KCQjwkrzPBhCqARIsAJN460m3g8jpx9_-VCLcPqrk3kKqt0Q8lA7XYi2-rzb6VRuN02-i7uQC-MkaAvbCEALw_wcB As a tangent, I also found they have a hog ring stapler. I'm not sure if that one could be used for seats: https://www.uline.com/Product/Detail/H-1481/Staplers-and-Staples/Hog-Ring-Plier-Stapler?pricode=WA9214&gadtype=pla&id=H-1481&ad_group_id=169835544220&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21814877952&gbraid=0AAAAAD_uetOzGoheJpwHQfHqXe8QbIkot&gclid=Cj0KCQjwkrzPBhCqARIsAJN460kngud0nN7I1N4awAjMLqATi1EIjYgrIlHEjoJcUd58yXqsA61X26QaAoafEALw_wcB

Greg was running away from the field in the afternoon race today. Woody was keeping up with him for a couple of laps but dropped to 3rd20260426_121820.mp4

As I just explained

Conventional wisdom says that the sense wire should come from as close to the battery as possible. The image I posted has "radio" near the wiring only because Nissan was cramming the whole wiring diagram onto an 8.5x11 page. When you look at the bigger picture, you can see that the white wire branches off after the fusible link at the starter. In other words, they have it coming from close to the battery.

The Mitty at Road Atlanta

The pictures aren't showing up on my end. I'm not sure if that's a you or me issue.

So, from how the circuit is wired, saying pin 20 should have continuity with ground appears to be an error. This is based on the assumption that you are still working on a 75 with the corresponding control unit. Pin 72 is ground. There is a resistor and relay coil between pin 20 and pin 72. In addition, pin 20 & pin 36 are connected at the EFI relay. Pin 36 goes back to the AFM. It gets 12VDC+ when the key is on and the AFM flap is open. This operates the relay coil to run the fuel pump. From my research pin 20 is to indicate engine running. This site gives a good accounting of the pinouts from a BMW site: https://www.firstfives.org/faq/ljet/ecu_pinout.html I also attached a PDF of the file. L-Jet ECU Pinout.pdf

I will describe this as if you are using Nissan fusible links. You should have a black fusible link (https://zcardepot.com/collections/electrical/products/fusible-link-wire-black-280z-75-78?variant=49681656086840) connecting the white wires. You should have a green fusible link (https://zcardepot.com/collections/electrical/products/fusible-link-wire-black-280z-75-78?variant=49681663656248) connecting the white/red wires. The black fusible link is for main power. The green fusible link is for the ammeter. What exactly do you mean by "I cant seem to get continuity to pin 20 of the ecm"? Continuity with what? What test are you running? What page in the FSM?

Don't forget @zspert https://www.zzxdatsun.com/catSoftTrim.php

I used to use Hella housings. However, I noticed that an original headlight was Koito. When I found the Toyota kit used Koito housings, I decided to go that direction. Then it turned out that the Toyota kits were cheaper than getting the Hella housings.

And for completeness, I'll re-post the link to the video on changing the headlight housings.

And it's a lot easier to change the headlights on the 280ZX, too. I think I had to remove the carbon canister to get to the right headlight, but it was so nice not having to crawl under the car.

The current drop is significant. Here is the current draw with the clearance lights (all exterior and gauge lights are LED in my cars). Here is the current draw with the LED headlights. So the LED bulbs draw about 3A. That's less than 1/3 the current draw of conventional headlights.

Yes, they are.

Strange. It worked for me. Here's basically the same thing: https://tinyurl.com/4444a7dr It's a short URL to go to Google Shopping for the Toyota part number 81110-60p70 Edit: I think I know what threw you off. It comes up with NLA for one vendor, but you can select another vendor who still has the Koitos available.

Auxito H4 bulbs: https://www.amazon.com/AUXITO-Brighter-50000LM-Ultra-Bright-Lifespan/dp/B0FM7ZVR4Z Koito H4 housings: https://tinyurl.com/e8rcpjwd I've been using them for years. Others who have used them at my recommendation like them, too. The Koito housings come with a relay kit. You don't need to use it.

That could have completed the circuit for the compressor.

Thank you for posting your follow-up on here. Posting results can help other members in the future.

It is a Frontier alternator. I sent you a PM.

There's your problem. You need the switched source. I just looked at your last post. Too much noise happened between your posts unfortunately, so I missed them. I apologize if you post again before I save this edit. Now that I looked at your photos, let's dissect... Those aren't really jumpers. They are going to the correct terminals, but contact could be marginal. You also don't need the jumper between 2 & 3 because... The red wire going to the alternator post will serve as the battery sense. The rule of thumb is to have the source of that wire come from as close to the battery as possible, but we don't need to quibble about that. So another potential point of failure is whatever is going on under that electrical tape between the white/black and green wires. My recommendations: Use a proper connector for your jumper on the voltage regulator connection. (I know a guy...) Show how attached the green wire to the white/black wire.