SteveJ

And for completeness, I'll re-post the link to the video on changing the headlight housings.

And it's a lot easier to change the headlights on the 280ZX, too. I think I had to remove the carbon canister to get to the right headlight, but it was so nice not having to crawl under the car.

The current drop is significant. Here is the current draw with the clearance lights (all exterior and gauge lights are LED in my cars). Here is the current draw with the LED headlights. So the LED bulbs draw about 3A. That's less than 1/3 the current draw of conventional headlights.

Yes, they are.

Strange. It worked for me. Here's basically the same thing: https://tinyurl.com/4444a7dr It's a short URL to go to Google Shopping for the Toyota part number 81110-60p70 Edit: I think I know what threw you off. It comes up with NLA for one vendor, but you can select another vendor who still has the Koitos available.

Auxito H4 bulbs: https://www.amazon.com/AUXITO-Brighter-50000LM-Ultra-Bright-Lifespan/dp/B0FM7ZVR4Z Koito H4 housings: https://tinyurl.com/e8rcpjwd I've been using them for years. Others who have used them at my recommendation like them, too. The Koito housings come with a relay kit. You don't need to use it.

That could have completed the circuit for the compressor.

Thank you for posting your follow-up on here. Posting results can help other members in the future.

It is a Frontier alternator. I sent you a PM.

There's your problem. You need the switched source. I just looked at your last post. Too much noise happened between your posts unfortunately, so I missed them. I apologize if you post again before I save this edit. Now that I looked at your photos, let's dissect... Those aren't really jumpers. They are going to the correct terminals, but contact could be marginal. You also don't need the jumper between 2 & 3 because... The red wire going to the alternator post will serve as the battery sense. The rule of thumb is to have the source of that wire come from as close to the battery as possible, but we don't need to quibble about that. So another potential point of failure is whatever is going on under that electrical tape between the white/black and green wires. My recommendations: Use a proper connector for your jumper on the voltage regulator connection. (I know a guy...) Show how attached the green wire to the white/black wire.

Yes, it's kind of low. However, you have all of us here at a disadvantage. We can't see what you did. (Hint: post a picture that clearly shows the wires you jumpered.) To test things, follow this procedure. Have the car off. Remove the 2 pin connector from the alternator. Measure voltage to ground at the yellow wire. It should read about battery voltage. It helps if you stick you probe into the back side of the connector. Turn the key to ON. Don't start the car. Measure voltage to ground on the white/black wire. It should read about battery voltage. Report your readings in steps 3 & 5. Here's an example of getting the meter probe on the back side of the connector.

Just follow the picture from the first post. The white/black gets jumpered to the blue wire next to the white/red wire. The white/red gets jumpered to the yellow wire. The white/black wire goes to the alternator. It needs a switched source. In the internally regulated alternator, this is referred to as the L (lamp) terminal. The blue wire next to the white/red is a switched source, so it connects to the white/black wire. The yellow wire goes to the alternator. It needs a constant source connected to the battery. In the internally regulated alternator, this is referred to as the S (sense) terminal. The white/red is electrically connected to the battery via a fusible link, so it has constant power. I advise you to leave the engine harness side of the wiring intact. Cut the connector off the voltage regulator and jumper the wires on that side.

Is this the post you were referencing about making your own? To go down a rabbit hole, here's an aluminum glove box: https://skillard.com/products/datsun-240z-aluminum-glove-box?srsltid=AfmBOopKRupFQbRuynY3YsSU82FYv9mZITO2DRh030kbo90s3HFIW4pH And you can print a plastic one: https://www.yeggi.com/q/glovebox+240z/

I know it from 20+ years of reading posts on this site.

White & White/Black - Speaker Blue/Red - Power Antenna Blue/White - Power Antenna

Get the tank fixed or get a new tank from S30.World

You're welcome to come hang out with me at the Mitty at the end of the month. The Group 3 race will look similar to this.

That's okay. I just wanted to post the link. I was too lazy to go down to my cars to look.

Red Yellow (Corrected as per @Captain Obvious )

He made it look easy. However, IMHO he should have chased the threads instead of using a die. After watching that video, I'm happy that I had people with specialized knowledge rebuilding my boosters.

This may help you: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/68235-ignition-switch-broken-wire/

Because it's good to get a part rebuilt by people who actually care about their workmanship. I realized I should add some detail to this. As I mentioned before, one booster was on the 260Z when I bought it. As far as I could tell, it was OEM. The other booster was a rebuilt booster that was probably purchased from RockAuto. When I picked up the boosters, the technician commented that the one that had the sticker (260Z original) was original while the other booster probably was rebuilt by A1 Cardone as he found broken tabs that he has experienced before with A1 Cardone. They even provided me with all of the parts removed from the old boosters so I could inspect them if desired. I dropped the boosters off on a Wednesday, and I received a call the following Monday saying they were ready. Unlike rebuilt boosters you get from part stores, Harmon blasts the booster and repaints it. Things like that matter to me. On the cheap/fast/good triangle, they are very much on the fast/good side, but considering that I'm getting tired of swapping boosters, I don't mind at all.

Well I found one problem. I installed one of the boosters into the 73, and it really demonstrates how much I need to clean up the rest of the engine bay. 😐

Don't get stranded. Take care of the maintenance on your Z before you hit the road for Spring driving. Go to Kale Co Auto for all of the tools you need. https://kalecoauto.com/product-category/tools/ And don't forget to fill your headlights.