SteveJ

I'm not surprised. It was probably to simplify the dies for stamping the bumpers..

Here's a way not to worry about that fuse: https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GC017-Adapter-Socket-Battery/dp/B00G8WLX78/

Not sure, but I would worry about metal shavings getting into the head/engine.

According to ZCarSource, this is a P90 head. You can see that the window for the fuel pump hasn't been opened up. On the N47 Maxima head in my 260Z, I put a cover plate over that area that I bought from MSA.

This may not answer your question, but I thought the info on this page was interesting with regard to Datsun keys: http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=Keys

If you haven't already done so, download the FSM. It is available for free from this site. In the ET section, it shows you what you are looking for on page ET-11.

If you're referring to Vintage Dashes, they have a contact link on their website: https://vintagedashes.com/pages/contact

The hazard switch has a bulb. It should come on with the parking lights/gauge lights. Here is some fun I had with that bulb socket 4 and a half years ago.

I think larger units tend to intrude into the passenger footwell. I think AC Autosolutions sells a kit that only partially intrudes into the footwell. A friend said he has talked with the guy who runs AC Autosolutions, and the guy is easy to work with. I noticed that on his website, there is some carpeting hanging down from under the dash to hide the evaporator. https://autoacsolutions.com/products/ac-kits/add-on-air-conditioning-heat-and-defrost-air-kit-with-integrated-controls-for-75-76-77-78-280z/

To your point, @HS30-H, I asked my wife to do a light sanding and stain the steering wheel in my car. She used a regular wood stain and sealed it. The wheel took the stain great. I doubt "plastic" would have faired so well, and my wife, who has stained a lot of wood over the years, confirmed my doubts.

Today was a great day to go to the Worship car meet. The weather wasn't too hot, and I found a good parking spot that afforded me some shade for most of the time I was there. There were 2 280Zs, 2 Z31s that showed up, and then there was the time capsule. Sandesh introduced himself to me and said he brought his 1991 Twin Turbo but parked it on the other side of the sea containers in the parking lot. David and I walked over with Sandesh to see his car. It was well worth the effort. Sandesh said he purchased his Z32 with 3K miles in 93. It now has a little over 23K miles. The interior is immaculate, and it wouldn't take too much to get the engine bay ready to win a ZCON Gold Medallion. He still has the original Goodyear Gatorbacks on the rears. I might have to see if I can convince him to buy a Nissan battery. He has been an incredible curator of this museum piece, and I'm so glad he brought it out for us to see. Here is my car with a nice 280Z owned by a friend. And here is the time capsule...

Hot is relative. Use an IR thermometer to say what the temps are. How freely can the fronts spin with the tire off the ground? Shoot a video of you spinning the wheels by hand. Post it on YouTube and link it here.

I didn't hold my hands out, so I got my left and right mixed up. Your observation is correct. It should be on the right.

Considering your first post was conflating the turn signal GB with the horn GB, I think you may want to go through the test I laid out. The flasher relay for the hazard lights is the same as the flasher relay for the turn signal. Yes, you could swap it over to test. However, both @Captain Obvious and I still wonder if the problem could be further upstream. That's why I prefer voltage readings over component swapping. However, swapping the hazard flasher relay would be much easier than bench testing the flasher relay. In order to have old style relays operate, they need sufficient current flowing through the relay to get the bi-metal strip to bend. If you have a bad flasher relay, here is a two wire relay that still has a clicking sound similar to the old bi-metal flasher relay: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GWL1YS3

As you face the tank opening for the fuel sending unit, the notch goes on the left RIGHT (Dang it, Steve!). You will see the insulated terminal higher than the uninsulated terminal on the sending unit.

I think @Captain Obvious and I are having similar thoughts. Sorry about that, Capt!

First, use the colors on the dash harness side of the connector, not the switch side of the connector. The switch colors do not necessarily match the wiring diagram. The white wire is the 12 VDC source coming into the switch. There are two green/black wires. One is for the horn. It should have 12VDC to ground until to press the horn button. The other GB wire is for right side turn signals. Turn the key to the ON position. Verify you have 12VDC to ground at the W wire in the steering column. If you don't, you might have a bad flasher relay. If you have voltage at the white wire, then turn the switch up for the right turn signal. If the W wire is at 0VDC to ground, measure voltage to ground at the GY wire on the flasher relay. If there is voltage at the GY wire, you might have a bad flasher relay.

This isn't color coded, but here are 10 pin latching connectors: https://www.ebay.com/itm/251571360455 Also here: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2251832114000835.html?gatewayAdapt=4itemAdapt and here: https://www.amazon.com/DJJ7021F-6-3-11-Electrical-Connectors-Automobile-Connector/dp/B07WQWMMLT?th=1 Choice #2, back out the pins and re-use the shells.

I should also add that I had a Crane ignition in my 240Z for many years. I still had the ballast resistor in the circuit, and I never touched the tach or had any issues with it. I suggest testing with a coil of 1 ohm or higher impedance first, then consider modifying the loop on the tach if there is an issue.

The current limiting was why I listed the 3 ohm coil as an option. According to Ohm's Law in a DC circuit, V=IxR (voltage is equal to the current times the resistance). Voltage will be relatively constant, so if you increase the impedance of the coil, it should decrease the current. The 3 ohm coil should give you about the same circuit impedance for the ZX distributor as the stock coil and ballast resistor with the points. Mind you, I have not tested this. I have a Pertronix 2 ignitor with a 1.5 ohm Pertronix Flamethrower coil in my 240Z. I jumpered out the ballast resistor, and my tachometer works fine.

This is higher than the range for an E12-80, but that isn't a bad thing. https://pertronixbrands.com/products/pertronix-40011-flame-thrower-coil-40-000-volt-1-5-ohm-black?variant=31797269037092 If the tach doesn't want to play nice, you could go with the 3 ohm coil. https://pertronixbrands.com/products/pertronix-40511-flame-thrower-coil-40-000-volt-3-0-ohm-black?variant=31797269397540

Here's a cap that was damaged when I didn't seat the wires properly.

Start with checking the basics. Does the timing at idle match factory specs? What is your fuel pressure? Have you checked the valve lash?

D'oh! I read the FSM too quickly. You are correct about the 14x5 wheels. Here's an offset explanation: https://www.lesschwab.com/article/what-is-wheel-offset.html. Don't neglect accounting for backspacing. (It's in the link.)

Thanks for the feedback, guys. I think that even if it doesn't make a difference on the spindle pin, the induction heater will be beneficial on various fasteners. I'm thinking it will be in the category of better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it. Besides, I've joked around that my nickname should be "Torque to Yield".