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SteveJ

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Everything posted by SteveJ

  1. Oops! The car has demonstrated a desire to pull to the left at freeway speeds. It isn't too bad, but it's noticeable. I put an IR thermometer in the car so I could check the brakes after a drive. Sure enough, the left brake was about 30 degrees or so warmer than the right. I bought some rebuilt calipers, rotors and pads. They arrived, and I set about changing the brakes today. No problems on the left with disassembly, though I realized I should have purchased new slider pins. At least I had plenty of cotter pins handy. I got new rotor mounted and went to put on the caliper...but it wouldn't go over the mounting holes on the spindle. I called up a friend who suggested they might be 280Z rotors (FYI: 260Z rotors are the same as 280Z). No, it couldn't be that. I knew I selected 240Z parts when I was on Rockauto. Measurements don't lie. The hats on the old rotors were definitely taller. (And there was enough of a groove toward the edge that I wasn't going to try turning them.) I double checked the part on Rockauto, and I picked up on the key detail I missed before. It said the rotors were for AFTER 8/73. In other words, they had 260Z rotors under the 240Z listing. D'oh! Anyway, I found the correct rotors at Summit Racing. They also have them at the Georgia location, so they should get here in a couple of days. I also ordered some new bolts and other brake hardware from ZCarDepot since it would be a good idea to replace all of that, too. Delayed gratification, but no real damage.
  2. That orifice is the "fuel pressure regulator". That is what allows the pressure to stay around 3 to 4 PSI on the fuel rail.
  3. Yes, that is normal. It is a return line, not a fuel vapor line. The vapor line is routed differently and ends down below the ballast resistor/coil area. As @siteunseenwas saying, when the floats rise in the float bowls, they cut off fuel from going into the float bowls. Since this is a low pressure system that is not dead-headed, the fuel must go somewhere. The block on the right end of the fuel rail is where you go from supply to return.
  4. Can you get a photo of the backside? Someone might have a suggestion.
  5. SteveJ posted a post in a topic in Help Me !!
    Most of the cars I have seen keep the hoses.
  6. SteveJ posted a post in a topic in Engine & Drivetrain
    In case you need to look at the service manual for a 240SX for more info on putting it back together (or names of parts) - https://forums.nicoclub.com/nissan-240sx-factory-service-manuals-for-nicoclub-members-t549156.html
  7. SteveJ posted a post in a topic in Engine & Drivetrain
    Go to https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/ If you're sure the transmission is from a 95 - https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/1995-nissan-240sx-parts.html Even closer...https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts-list/1995-nissan-240sx/power_train/transmission_gear.html
  8. SteveJ posted a post in a topic in Open Discussions
    Well bought.
  9. SteveJ posted a post in a topic in Help Me !!
    Motorsport Auto - http://zcarparts.com/
  10. SteveJ posted a post in a topic in Electrical
    Probably not. You're just hearing the contacts moving when the coil in the relay is energized or de-energized. If it sounds more like someone generating Morse code, then it would be a sign something is wrong,.
  11. SteveJ posted a post in a topic in Electrical
    After I read the first sentence, I was thinking, "Change the ignition switch." I'm glad it's working for you. The sheer screws are there to deter theft...for a minute or less. You'd have better luck pulling the rotor out of the distributor or pocketing the fuel injection relay to discourage a thief without a tow truck.
  12. I got the same error when I tried it on my phone.
  13. If you're on Facebook, you can also watch it there (without Gayle's intro being interrupted by the backstage interview with Jack Rousch) go to https://www.facebook.com/MotorsportsHOF/ and scroll down to the livestream from the ceremony. The remarks start about 1:06:00 into the event.
  14. From the induction ceremony last night...Be sure to watch through to the backstage interview with Peter.
  15. You'll probably need to buy one off ebay and get it rebuilt if you don't already have a distributor. Not enough rebuildable cores were sent back, so the supply dropped.
  16. Actually, I only know the two women who were inside: Anna (Randy's girlfriend) and Gayle Brock.
  17. SteveJ posted a post in a topic in Help Me !!
    It is for positive crankcase ventilation. There should be a hose going from that to the PCV valve at the balance tube. They are parts 3 & 5 on this page: https://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/engine-240z-260z/emission-control-device. Hose: https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/15-6211 Valve: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1972,240z,2.4l+l6,1209169,exhaust+&+emission,positive+crankcase+ventilation+(pcv)+valve,5052 If you plug the PCV, you risk pressurizing your block and finding out how weak your oil seals are.
  18. Courtesy of Randy Jaffe The black tie ceremony is tonight.
  19. And don't forget to perform this test as illustrated in the FSM. I think if you get liquid, the test indicates failure.
  20. SteveJ posted a post in a topic in Electrical
    I had a few minutes to spend in the garage this evening, so I ran a quick load test on the alternator. With the headlights on and fan on HIGH, voltage went from about 14.4 down to 14.0. It does have an electric fuel pump and GM ECU for the fuel injection, so the load would be comparable to a 280Z at idle. The real test will be for me to take it on a drive. The old VR/alternator would start out fine, but the voltage would decay as the trip went on, to the point that it was around 12.8 on the voltmeter at idle...No charging, but no draining.
  21. OTOH, pushing in from the vent line would indicate whether or not there is an adequate seal on the filler cap. Unless the tech had the right adapter, that could have been the source of the leak.
  22. And if you have an air compressor or tire inflator, you can use it for the air source. Just make sure you dial the regulator down on the compressor.
  23. I made my own smoke machine, too. Buy some tire valve stems, and remove the valves inside. I bought the soldering iron at Walmart.
  24. SteveJ posted a post in a topic in Electrical
    Make sure the relay is good. Make sure you have good grounds for the horns, that is no paint under the mounting point, since they ground to the chassis. Make sure the wiring up front isn't corroded. You should have seen how bad it was on my 240Z when I went to get her back on the road last summer. Make sure the grounding is good between the horn button and the steering column. (Added) Make sure the fuse is good.
  25. SteveJ posted a post in a topic in Body & Paint
    @maximus35 - Next time you get to hunt for the customers. You can't expect me to drag them to you. 😉

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