SteveJ

This is what he used: https://zcardepot.com/products/wiper-motor-honda-upgrade-240z-260z-280z?_pos=2&_sid=01d6bdf24&_ss=r @Zs-ondabrainused the 91 Honda Civic motor for the 240Z.

You have to be careful bench testing the fuel gauge. From the positive wire going through the gauge, there are two paths. One goes to ground, and the other goes through the fuel gauge sending unit and then to ground. Some people don't ground the first path and ruin the gauge. Power for most of your circuits goes from the battery to the ammeter and then down to the various circuits. (The brake light circuit is a notable exception.) If the wires at the ammeter are not going through the ammeter or not connected to each other, you're not going anywhere. As @zKars warned, if not using an ammeter, you have to insulate the connection between the two wires well, or you may end up with a smoking pile of rubble.

Nice first post.

Now THIS is the way to frame a request for help. If you are worried about having a short that will fry the fusible link, there are several ways to assess the risk. Remove the fusible link and use a voltmeter and measure from the wire coming off the solenoid (for the fusible link) to the positive battery cable. If there is not a short, that should read 0V Measure resistance between the wire coming off the solenoid (for the fusible link) to ground. If it reads less than 10 ohms, you have a significant load or short. If you have less than 1000 ohms, you will have a pretty good battery drain. Use a 12VDC test light between the wire coming off the solenoid (for the fusible link) to the positive battery cable. If it lights up, you have a short. (Be sure to test the test light across the battery terminals to make sure you have a good bulb.) I would post photos with examples, but I have a gas tank sitting in the way on the garage floor right now.

The first and most important thing to do in order to get help tracking down a possible short is to tell us the year of your car! With that, we can tell you specific things to try. Did you get a new fusible link to replace the damaged one?

It does not have the original stock profile camshaft.

You can get a new connector for the flasher: https://vintageconnections.com/Products/Connectors Specifically https://vintageconnections.com/Products/Detail/141

That's what I was referring to in post #4. Now here's what I suggest. Get some round wire brushes like this: https://www.amazon.com/Bottle-Stainless-Bristle-PMD-Products/dp/B007S91ND4 or this: https://www.harborfreight.com/tube-brush-set-6-pc-61923.html Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. Remove the fuses from the fusebox. Note what rating fuse goes where Run the wire brushes on the insides of the fuse holders. Use some canned air to blow out any dust. Replace the fuses. Replace the negative cable. Test. Corrosion in your fusebox can limit the available current in a circuit.

Here's an ebay listing for one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/192368847767?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28 And a company in the US: https://conceptzperformance.com/nismo-high-flow-volume-fuel-pumpgeneral-purpose-13lmin-17010-a7601-universal_p_24080.php?quantity=1

It routes the large white/red wire through the fusebox.

I don't know if they are in full production, yet. https://s30.world/

Photos of the connections you have at the alternator would be nice. @Wally posted photos, and it didn't take more than a second to see where he went wrong. While you're at it, post photos of the battery with cables.

No, it doesn't come with pads. I'll have to fabricate those.

Yes it is.

If the test light blinks when you are touching it to the 5 pin connector, it should blink at the white wire (upstream). With the blinking at the 5 pin connector, it suggests that you should test further down the line. The connectors at the lights are good if the hazards flash. That just about leaves the 5 pin connector in the steering column as the last unique connection in the circuit. Unless I'm physically testing your car with a meter, I'm not sure I have any more good suggestions for you.

The flashers you are using might need more current to go into flashing mode with the test light. Two test lights in parallel might allow the flasher to operate. The dim light does make me think it could be corrosion somewhere before the turn signal switch. Here's an analogy that might help you understand why I am thinking you may have some corrosion in the circuit somewhere. Voltage is much like water pressure. It is a measure of potential. Current is much like the flow of water through a pipe. Corrosion in switches and connectors is like silt and sediment blocking up a pipe. Technically you still have the same water pressure, but when you open the valve downstream, you only get a trickle out (the dim light). Have you tried the test light at the connector for the flasher? Also, use the test light at the fuse box itself and the battery. Make sure the light is bright somewhere. It could be corrosion in the fusebox. Remove the fuse and see if you can't get a clear picture of the fuse holder that you can post here.

So the part needed for the next step in the reawakening has arrived. I plan to install it this weekend...I hope.

And if you're not familiar with Randy's shop, Cliff, this is what it looks like: https://photos.app.goo.gl/VopQLgMC91z3ie5f6

Thank you for starting a new thread with a thorough description. Going to the diagram of the circuit: The white wire comes off the turn signal flasher and goes up to the steering column. I suggest trying your test light from that wire to ground. The test light should flash. While having 12VDC at the flasher indicates the hazard switch isn't broken, the contacts could be corroded/carboned up to the point where there is not enough current flowing. This can happen at connectors, too. Do your brake lights work well? Have you tried taking voltage readings (to ground) at the sockets for the turn signals? You can also check at the connectors pictured in the diagrams above. Look for the green/black wire for the right side and green/red wire on the left side.

Cliff, you're welcome to come visit just to hang out. That goes for the doggo, too. Maybe we can convince Randy to spend a day at his shop, and we can have a Z overdose day.

I think @Wally is a newcomer to the forum who lives in your neck of the woods.

If you trust it enough for a 3 hour drive up this, I can help you with installing an electric fuel pump, Cliff. I have a lift and all of the tools to do the job right. Heck, you could bring the dog, too. The wife and I like 4 legged guests. Our old girl might ignore your dog, though. She's pretty much to the resting most of the day stage in her life.

A 78 oil pressure sender can be adapted for this: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=488596&cc=1209260&pt=4588&jsn=830 You can get the female T connector from Vintage connections and wire the gauge connection to a female bullet to connect to the engine harness. According to the 78 wiring diagram, the horizontal pin is for the gauge, and the vertical pin would be your switch. You can also install an inertia switch like this and put it under the dash. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RBK4873 The trick with the one in the link is that you need to swap one of the wires from the normally open to the normally closed position. I helped a friend install one of these in his track car, and he has not experienced accidental activation of the inertia switch.

Did you get one of those 70A alternators from ZCarDepot?

That makes it pretty easy, then. Order the OEM slave from the first link I posted.