SteveJ

I was referring to the electronic flasher.

Are you using a two wire or 3 wire flasher relay? A link to the part or part number would be very helpful. As for both sides flashing when moving the turn signal stalk, has the switch been rebuilt? That could be the rocker in the switch not being bent at the correct angle.

S30.World has steel tanks. The plastic tanks are sold by someone else.

Right now, I probably have too many electrical parts on hand.

I think this may have been the year Dan Parkinson hit the back of Paul Newman's car.

I looked at the rheostat access. The best path is probably to remove the tachometer.

I don't expect a lot of people wanting to take me up (except @Yarb, who just likes to drop ship things to me), but yes, I would put on two bullets for the price of shipping the part back to someone. As for the cost of shipping to me, if you use Amazon Prime, the part could be drop shipped to me, so someone would only need to pay about $20 for the same thing that Harmon wants $50+shipping.

Actually the poster on Zcar.com wasn't indignant IMHO. He was more perturbed about the slow shipping. OTOH, when I look at Harmon Resto's website I see several things that he is marking up big with no value added. He's putting together cheap parts he is sourcing from Amazon, Temu, or Aliexpress and marking them up significantly.

A member at Zcar.com was a little miffed about receiving his purchase from Harmon Resto. This is what he ordered: https://harmonresto.com/products/usb-charger-cig-delete-kit-w-volt-meter. After a brief search on Amazon, it wasn't hard to find a source for the USB ports: https://www.amazon.com/Upgraded-Outlet-Voltmeter-Waterproof-Charger/dp/B098KD2G8F. Harmon doesn't even bother to leave the inline fuse on it, but they make up for it by marking up the price significantly. So if you really want these, reach out to me. Drop ship the Amazon one to me. (Suggestion: Get this one and you'll have 3 ports. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B1WJ3W5X) I'll replace the ring lugs with bullets for you and charge you shipping. I love it when business support the hobby, but I don't like it when they mark up products 300% in the process.

Thank you for the clarifications. This helps in providing guidance. Considering your willingness to put a quality effort into the jumper harnesses, I'm not too concerned with where you intercept the circuit as long as it's after the brake switch. When in doubt, use an inline fuse to protect the branch circuit! It's relatively cheap, and if the extra wire gets chafed and shorts out, you don't take out the other brake lights. A 5A fuse should be fine for the inline fuse. Allow me to clarify. At the rheostat (aka gauge light dimmer), you have a green/white wire going in and a red/blue coming out. The green/white is same wire as for the parking lights, and the red/blue goes to the gauges. (By the way, I strongly suggest changing parking lights to LEDs and derating the fuse to 10A to protect the wiring/fuse box better.) If the window switch lights are dimmable, you may want to make your branch circuit off the red/blue wire. If the lights aren't dimmable, make the branch off the green/white wire. Again, putting an inline fuse on the new branch is cheap insurance that you don't take out your parking lights while driving. You can find the rheostat here: Does that make more sense?

The directions for tuning/adjusting are in the EF section of the FSM.

Unless it was a North American spec car, that was a different carburetor.

William Stokes, aka @hls30.com, passed away yesterday. He had been battling some medical issues for a while. Now he gets to rest. Here he is on the left from a couple of years back when he went to lunch with a couple of my friends.

I'm not sure how you have things wires at your brake pedal switch and whether or not you still have stock wiring in place in the brake/turn signal circuit. You won't find a jumper harness at the gauges unless you make one and install it. It would be easier to provide guidance if you would quote what you are asking about.

Why worry about it? Nissan said they aren't going to build it for sale.

It's the right part number. https://www.amazon.com/MOMO-3503-Steering-Wheel-Nissan/dp/B000F0KG9A

Are you sure it's the carb oil? It's a tricky path for that oil to get to the bottom of the carburetor.

Are you keeping halogen bulbs? LED H4s will pull about 5A total from my measurements.

It took me a few minutes to reconcile things since you are only showing one part of the circuit. Yes, that looks correct to me. Since you have pulled the ammeter out, yes, you could pull the power for the B terminal from the B terminal on the alternator. I suggest putting a 10A inline fuse into the circuit near the alternator to protect the wiring if that's the direction you go.

Yes, the hose is usually held in place on the air cleaner with this clip.

Several Georgia Z Club members got together this morning to go to one of the local car meets.

Their braided hoses look good. I don't have any OEM hoses to compare with, and I'm usually driving my parts hauler when I'm visiting there.

He said he's going to Pertronix II, so there won't be points.

Condensers (aka capacitors) for electrical noise reduction (alternator) and protect points & electrical noise reduction (ignition). Unless you're using a stock radio or similar vintage, you don't need them.