SteveJ

Yes, sir. I got the BL-5000SLX. If you have a Costco membership, watch their website for sales on them. On special, Costco has them for about $200 less than the next lowest price I could find. While I already have a scissor lift, I thought the Quickjacks would be a good addition. They will be once I get the parts from Bendpak to fix the ramp. I could use them, but I would have to remember to add air to the one air cylinder before trying to lower the vehicle. Several items on the list such as draining the gas tank and replacing the 13 year old rubber on the wheels will be easier if I can just put the car in the air. I also plan on using it for oil changes and transmission work since the scissor lift cannot accommodate those tasks well.

I finished the assembly of the Quickjacks today. Unfortunately, one of the air cylinders will not hold pressure. I even swapped the valves between the two ramps to see if it followed the valve. Nope. It was the cylinder. Bendpak has acknowledged the help ticket. While I wait for that to be resolved, the next round of parts arrives tomorrow, and I hope to get the screens for the banjo bolts on Friday. With car meets on Saturday and Sunday, I won't be spending as much time in the garage, but I hope to get a couple of more items crossed off the list.

Maybe someone on Facebook in the Georgia Z Club group or Georgia Datsun Owners group may be able to give you a suggestion. You could try Fairlady Customz. https://www.facebook.com/FAIRLADYCUSTOMZ I've never used Brandon's shop, but he is active in the Z community.

I took the hint from the turn signals not working. There are only a couple of common points between the start circuit and turn signals that would display intermittent failure. These common points are the battery terminals, the ignition switch, the ammeter, and the fusible link. The last two are not as likely to have intermittent failures. It's probably the switch on the back of the ignition switch. By the way @240z70, the turn signals not working could easily be the ignition switch. I do not make random suggestions often, especially about the s30 electrical system. Try operating the turn signals with the ignition off. If your car is wired as stock, they won't work. https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2013/01/20/hazard-switch-brake-light-turn-signal-circuit-analysis/ Now, here is how you can test what I said. When you have a hard time starting the car, leave the key in the ON position. Try turning on the fan. Likely it will not run. Also, the wipers probably won't work. The turn signals, fan, and wipers all get their power through the ignition switch.

It may be a combination of things. Along with what @Zed Headsuggested, it may also have something to do with the switch on the back of the ignition switch. Also, how good of a charge do you have on your battery? A suspect/weak battery will cause funny things to happen.

Z Car Depot has my latest parts order in the mail, so I expect to see the package on Thursday or Friday. A guy needs a good distraction to reduce the leftover stress from work. That meant spending yesterday evening in the garage to clear out room for the Quickjacks, and moving them into the garage this evening. I did the grand unboxing, performed the required RTFM, watched a few YouTube videos on Quickjacks, and set about the execution. Since I'm not in a rush, I only worked on the ramps this evening. The hoses are connected, and the cylinders have been pressurized. No air leaks detected. Tomorrow I hope to finish putting the quick disconnects on the long hoses and pump. Maybe I'll even get to bleeding the system. We'll see.

Yeah, I've never posted this link here before...https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2013/01/20/hazard-switch-brake-light-turn-signal-circuit-analysis/ Hint - Look at the picture in the link. You'll see what I meant in the first sentence in my post.

Sometimes the wire colors on switches will differ from the wire color on the harness. For the wires you have left, here is what I suggest you make a chart like this so we can help you figure out where things go. List Wire color, including the color of the stripe Connector type: spade/bullet Connector gender: male/female Wire Origin: Dash harness/turn signal switch/headlight switch

I am contemplating putting those on my 240Z.

You can run 1 catch can for both. It shouldn't be spitting out too much oil. If it is, check your compression.

I actually spent more time installing a couple of lights in the garage than I did working on the car. Since I had to do the install with the garage doors open, it got pretty warm in there today. However, I now have good light over the engine bay, so I think that will be to my advantage going forward. The overnight bath in EvapoRust was good for the steel parts of the float bowl. After taking the parts out of the bath, I put them in a bath of fogging oil. I put the new valves in the float bowls and installed the floats and the vents. The lids are secured with new gaskets. I ordered the banjo bolt filters from ZCarDepot yesterday, so I hope to have them in time for the weekend. Also I would like the get the new Quickjacks operational sooner than later. The car was difficult to push in and out of the garage. It felt like one of the brakes was hanging. It would be nice to get the car off the ground so I could inspect it. Fortunately SWMBO is pretty tolerant of car parts in the Dining Room now, so if it has to wait a while, I might not get in too much trouble.

This weekend I decided to go after the carburetors. The car had not run in 9 years, and I was worried about what I might find. As I pulled apart the float bowls, my worries were confirmed. The bowl in the rear carburetor was lined with a rusty-colored dust. The bowl in the front had some black ooze in that clogged the line going to the nozzle. If you are ever thinking about just adding some fresh gas to a Z that has been sitting for a few years, I suggest that you don't do it until after you clean out the carbs and fuel system. Many components in the float bowl were rusted. I presume it was in part related to the ethanol fuel that was in the bowls when the car was last running. I cleaned out the float bowls with carb cleaner and blasted out the last of the ooze with some compressed air. The rusty parts got tossed into a container and immersed in EvapoRust. After they have sat in the container long enough, they will be rinsed with denatured alcohol, dried, and coated with oil to keep the rust from coming back. (Update: I just looked at them. They look a WHOLE lot better after a couple of hours of soaking.) I also ordered new filter screens for the banjo bolts as I do not deem the old ones as being reusable. Here's a video of the float bowls after I opened them up.

So, with the garage organized better and with the 73 no longer being covered in odd materials, it was time to start. I made a list and quickly knocked off a couple of items (removing the dead Crane box and replacing the bad temp sender) while adding two more new items. Then I reformatted the list, making a space for completion dates as items get checked off and adding blanks for more items as I encounter them. The next weekend reassembled the door, finding the old dovetail was broken. I also installed a Pertronix Ignitor in the old 73 distributor that was still hanging out in the garage, though if it gives me a headache later on, there is a 74 distributor in the parts bin that could see an HEI trigger in the future. Meanwhile, the parts orders continue, including a couple of rebuild kits for the carburetors. Sorry flattop fans, the 73 has some 4 screw SUs purchased 25 years ago. To do list for the 240Z.docx

Since the middle of May, I started getting the garage organized. It had not been a real priority in years, and it showed. Working from home made it easier to spend time in the evenings, and the portable air conditioning unit made it a lot more tolerable as temperatures got up to summer norms. Some weekends were spent working on the garage. Some were spent going to car meets (and other car activities), and some were spent working on other people's cars. May turned into June, and June turned into July. Finally the garage was in a condition where I could unbury the 73. I bought the 73 in late June 1993. I wanted to learn how to work on cars. Well, I got a lot of lessons the hard way, and the car paid for it. The car did get some use in the late 90s when it was pressed into service while my daily driver at the time was getting a new head gasket, but eventually I had to move to a house in 2002 that had a one-car garage, frequently trapping the car. A few years later, we moved into a house with 3 bays, but then I bought the 260Z. The 260Z was in pretty good shape. It does look better than the 73, and I put some money and effort into some of its problem areas. Then it was time for the 2010 Mitty. Datsun was featured, with Peter Brock as the Grand Marshal and John Morton racing a spec Miata in BRE livery. The 260Z and 240Z started giving me trouble early in the week, and both continued through the Mitty weekend. The 73 was in worse shape as it stopped running. I didn't know it at the time, but the Crane ignition gave up the ghost after about 13 years of providing a good spark. Anyway, the 260Z was running better, and it received most of the attention and most of the hobby car budget. The 240Z wasn't completely ignored. It got a ZX distributor swap, some stainless steel bumpers, and new seat covers (though the seats were not reassembled) among other things, but it sat...and sat...and sat. Then it got worse. I broke the temperature sender in the 260Z. I stole the one from the 240Z, and replaced it with the broken unit. The driver side door lock in the 260Z broke in 2018. I stole the door lock from the 240Z, and the door stayed stripped down. The last theft was taking off the ZX distributor last year to put it on the 260Z to replace a distributor with a wobbly shaft. The good news is that the parts theft ended there.

I heard rumor that it will be hosted by the home club of the ZCCA Treasurer. Here's the way to find out at ZCON before they announce it. Look around at registration and ask people working there who are not ZCCA officers (and family thereof) if they are with the host club. Most likely someone will respond, "No, I'm with the such-and-such club." Those people are at the convention to learn how to run registration for the next convention. Of course, there's usually plenty of loose lips around the convention saying where the next one will be held. The last few years only one club puts in a bid. For those of you who are not members of your local Z club, please join, especially if it's a ZCCA club. If it's not a ZCCA club, join and try to get them to join the ZCCA. It's only through the support of local clubs and the ZCCA that it's possible to have the conventions. If you haven't gone to a convention, consider going. Even an introvert like myself can find things to enjoy at the conventions. (Actually while many people are trying their hands at pub-crawls, I'm usually looking at the cars/photographing the cars/talking to the car owners.)

Human sacrifice, dogs and cats living together... mass hysteria! Seriously, the wrong lash pads will mess up your camshaft. As you see from the group feedback, the smaller lash pad isn't making much sense.

Quite possible, CO. It may affect the range of adjustment of the distributor. Of course, I may find out if I choose to go with that distributor in the future. I would use an HEI with it in the 73.

The three wire distributor is for a dual pickup...for an automatic transmission 260Z. In theory, the OP could cut the plug off his wiring harness and off the new distributor to wire them correctly. I wasn't sure if he wanted to cut connectors off. Finding the common wire isn't difficult. Finding the wire that goes to the correct pickup is more of a challenge. There is no place to put a meter probe to find out, so you have to trace the wire by hand. Here's a photo of a dual pickup distributor. I did some examination of this distributor and it looks like the female terminal by my thumb is for the pickup closest to the vacuum advance.

FYI: Here is a listing for a manual transmission distributor. It says "Not in Stock". I don't know if that means they can or cannot get it. Some of us tried to order windshields through Summit a couple of years ago, and that turned out to be vaporware. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaz-31-615/make/nissan/model/260z/year/1974

The 3-wire plug is for an automatic. The bullet size is different from pretty much all of the other bullets I have in my collection, too.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/324721775605?hash=item4b9aed13f5%3Ag%3APRUAAOSw1-Jg9zYr&LH_ItemCondition=3000|1000|2500 The seller is probably looking to take advantage of the hype. Supposedly only 15K miles. Car has been sitting for 34 years, and has the "California rust" on the hatch sill. It might be a good restoration candidate.

One tip I have used for breaking loose bolts: Before you try to loosen it, torque it slightly tighter. This may give you a little wiggle room to get it started turning the correct direction to loosen it. This actually worked for one screw when I was trying to remove the grille. Don't forget that heat can be your friend. Sometimes a heat gun is enough.

If you have a similar issue, you may just want to create a new thread.

Kroil is one of the best commercially available penetrating oils. You can get it as a spray or liquid in a can.

It's doubtful. You'd have to find people at the DMV willing to research the title, and if it changed states, that means working with another DMV (or several) to research the title. That's providing they would even do such a task.