SteveJ

Well, you could always move the connector from relay 5 to relay 2 and see if it works. If it does, you know you have a spare EFI relay.

The connector for the fuel pump relay is plugged into the inhibitor relay. I am guessing you have a manual transmission. The inhibitor relay is used in cars with automatic transmissions. I haven't checked, but I wouldn't be surprised if the part number for those relays are the same. It could be the case that the fuel pump relay failed so someone moved the connector over to the inhibitor relay.

How are you measuring temperature? Via the gauge? With an infrared thermometer? At what point in the system were you measuring the temperature? I will tend to agree that a 12 inch fan may be too small. Things to consider: Water pump - Are the impeller blades corroded to nothing? Gunk in the system - Have you flushed the cooling system? Lean combustion - Lean is hotter. You might want to take the radiator cap off when the car is cool and watch for coolant flow when the car is running.

No, it goes to the black/white wire on the resistor.

In controls vernacular the yellow wire is a "signal". In this case, the ignition being on signals the fan that it is okay to run if the engine is hot.

If you have a stock setup on your ignition, you are wiring it contrary to the instructions you posted. So, here is how you should have the control box wired to the car according to the instructions: Black - Grounded Green - Nothing (assuming you don't have AC) Yellow - To the black/white wire at the ballast resistor Red - Battery Note, if you have the red and yellow reversed, the car will probably die/not start because you are trying to draw too much current from the ignition circuit.

Does a land speed record car count as a race car?

The FSM has the specs for the valve adjustment. This is a popular procedure: https://web.archive.org/web/20080720024048/http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=12&uid=786489&gid=1803105

Before you go too far, I think I have a 240 fuel gauge hiding somewhere in my parts collection. I can open it up and do a video of the measurements so you can copy the steps.

That color interior is one of the most endearing things about cars from the 1980s.

Were you directing him toward the red/black that Linda Hood used to own?

You can also get a pocket sized version: https://www.ebay.com/itm/122659922684 By the way, the 11(now 13) mile 10AE ZX will be at ZCON this year. I'm scheduled to make a video of it next month.

What do you mean: an African or European driveshaft?

Do you have a 260Z, too? What carburetors do you have on it? Let's make sure you have the same issue because you may need a different solution. It might be good to start your own thread.

I looked at your photos. I don't know what the IPO (idiot previous owner) was doing to regulate fuel pressure to the carburetors. The fuel flow from the tank to the electric fuel pump is gravity feed only. If you don't have fuel when you pull the hose off the inlet side of the electric fuel pump, you won't ever get fuel through the line. Gas should be pouring out of the tank with the hose removed from the inlet side of the electric fuel pump unless you have the hose clamped off. Air pockets are not relevant in this case. Until you know you are getting fuel to the electric fuel pump, you will not be getting any fuel to the mechanical fuel pump. In addition to starting fluid, you may need to prime the line between the mechanical fuel pump and the carburetors. That should get the float bowls filled in the carbs and keep the car running long enough to pump fuel through the rest of the fuel line. So fill in the blanks: How long have you owned the car? Did it ever run since it was in your possession? If it did, what happened to make it stop running? What parts have you changed out?

If the wiring to the electric fuel pump is stock, you won't hear it running unless the engine is running. The electric pump does not run with the key in the START position, either. If you disconnect the line between the tank and the electric fuel pump, gas should flow out of the tank. I suggest that you drain the tank (using the drain plug) and look for debris (rust, etc.) coming out. You may need to drop the tank and boil it out & re-seal it. There are plenty of threads on here about that.

It doesn't work that way.

You don't need to pull the dash to remove the gauges if the car is stock. IIRC the FSM has instructions on removing the gauge. You definitely need to detach the heater control cables. As for feeding back the signal. Don't. Get the gauge out first. Then you can set up the test. You will need to set it up like the diagram the Captain posted to test it properly.

S - Sense (connects to the battery) L - Lamp (switched) https://auto.howstuffworks.com/alternator2.htm

The positive side of the fuel gauge is the yellow/red wire. Since that wire also powers the oil pressure and water temperature gauges, you can eliminate that as the source of your problem if those gauges are working. The likely culprits would be a poor connection between the fuel gauge and the dash harness or the fuel gauge itself.

Here's the video we made for the car.

Find this connector between the dash and body wiring harnesses. Check the yellow wire there. If you have a signal there, look for continuity on the yellow wire through the body harness. So it ended up that we did find out what was wrong with @GeoJoe's fuel gauge. I checked continuity on the yellow wire on the body harness. It read open line. The wire was replaced, and the gauge works.

A friend entered one of his Z cars into the Hot Wheels Legends Tour. (Ignore the reference to the wrong Peter Brock in the story.) https://www.fox5atlanta.com/news/alpharetta-man-competing-to-turn-his-car-into-hot-wheels-toy I'll be watching tonight to see if it shows up. https://www.facebook.com/events/708765086450998

Send me a PM with your email address. Someone pinged the GZC group today looking for a 2+2.

Here are a few photos from the enduro race from Sunday at The Mitty. Greg Ira and Woody Staub piloted the #5 Dan Parkinson tribute car to a 3rd in class finish.