SteveJ

From searching for ZL71B#3, I would say that is a 720 transmission.

@Terrapin Z I'm pretty sure you are correct about which bracket belongs on which car. I'm positive the larger one is for the 74.

You can always buy them from Bel Metric. They have JIS spec bolts For the M8: https://belmetric.com/m8x1-25-coarse-jis-b-1180-hex-bolt-class-8-8-wrench-12mm/? Buy a variety of lengths in case you need M8 bolts in the future. Also consider buying some M8 nuts. Normal: https://belmetric.com/nuts/jis-wrench/?FilterSpecification=JIS__B1181 Flanged: https://belmetric.com/nuts/flanged-nuts/?FilterSpecification=JIS__B1190

It's always a great thing to see one of these projects getting out into the light of day again. I hope you have a great time enjoying it.

I'm not sure why you think the tach needs recalibration. Have you changed something in the ignition system? Assuming the tachometer is ready to be replaced, I'll use Speed Hut as an example. Why? I have wired them before, and there are mounting adapters available. See gauge link, gauge adapters, and instructions. Would the Autometer tachometer work with the gauge adapter? I don't know, and frankly I don't care. Here's an approximate list of steps: Get a 4 pin non-latching 2.8mm connector from Vintage Connections. This will allow you to wire the tach to stock wiring. You will need the male side of the connector. See the photos below for the dash side of the harness. You should also probably get two 2 pin latching 2.8mm connectors for the other wiring modifications. If you don't have a proper crimping tool for open barrel connectors, they have that, too. Use a short piece of 16 or 18 gauge wire crimp the 2.8mm pins to either end. Insert that jumper into the bottom terminals of the 4 pin connector. That will ensure your ignition wiring out to the positive side of the coil stays intact. Crimp the 2.8mm terminals onto the tachometer wires. Install those terminals on the correct sides of the connector. See photos below Remove the two wing nuts holding the tachometer in place, cursing about how small the hands must have been on the person who installed it. If you don't have a dash cap, pull the tachometer out enough to disconnect it. If you have a dash cap, curse the day you or the previous owner installed it and figure out how to get the tachometer past it. (Sorry, no help from me on the dash cap.) As you pull out the gauge, disconnect the bulbs and 4 pin connector from the back of the tachometer. Cut the socket off the red/blue wire on the lower gauge bulb. Contort yourself in a strange way to strip about 1/4 inch of insulation off that wire and crimp a female 2.8mm terminal onto it. Strip about 1/4 insulation off the white wires on the gauge and crimp both to the same 2.8mm male terminal. Install those terminals into their respective connectors for when you put the gauge in. Run a length of 16 AWG wire from the negative of the coil to up under the dash. Protect this wire with 1/4 split loom or other durable cover. Connect one end of the wire to coil negative. Crimp the other end of the wire to a 2.8mm female terminal. Note: I can't see anything about a resistor between this wire and the tachometer. You will want to verify with Speed Hut. Crimp a 2.8 mm male terminal onto the yellow wire. Put those terminals into the respective connectors. Attach the connectors. Slide the tachometer into place. Note: I'm not sure about how to secure the tachometer. Program the tachometer according to the Speed Hut directions. Keep in mind that none of the aftermarket tachometers have turn indicators in the gauge. Speed Hut has them in the speedometer. By the time you are done with the install, you are probably at least up to the low side of the cost of fixing your old tachometer. Why don't you say what your tach is or is not doing? Shoot some video of it. Post the video on YouTube and link it here. We may be able to guide you through a cheaper fix.

My friend replaced the wheel bearings in my 260Z a few years back. The right side didn't budge until I was hitting it with a slide hammer while he was on the other side with an air hammer. Sometimes they are just that stubborn.

I'm glad you came to a definitive diagnosis. OTOH I hope you are never caught out in weather that would require you to use your wipers. 😄

I went back and looked, but I didn't see any electrical circuits that were wrong. 😁

No problem. That's the main character of a show from the 1980s called ALF. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ALF_(TV_series) From that article:

Are you a rancher?

This may work as a refill: https://www.ebay.com/itm/372381862823?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28&srsltid=AfmBOork85zINr1I7vDqi1EE8txMRzlB3Rdt3yqsD9J0r8v6-opGAn7c44M Also look up OER F309 as a possibility. Here's one you could try if you like taking chances: https://shop.remotepracticemanagers.com/products/car-windscreen-wiper-blade-insert-natural-rubber-strip-nr-6mm-refill-1416171819202122242628-1pcs-car-accessories?variant=43954329026790

A search in Google is showing a lot of "out of stock" on that part. I bought some the previous time you mentioned them. More and more parts are just unobtainable.

Don't be too quick with that suggestion. I have searched on Trico 33-183 before. At Summit, this is the picture they show with that part number: In digging deeper, I read the reviews on Amazon for the 33-183, and people say the bayonet adapter is plastic. https://www.amazon.com/Trico-33-183-Classic-Wiper-Blade/product-reviews/B000CRMNJC/ref=cm_cr_dp_d_show_all_btm?ie=UTF8&reviewerType=all_reviews

Unless you got the differential from Japan (or someone modified it), I doubt you have a 3.9 rear end. Reference: https://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/GearRatios.html

My 73 was a retrofit. Unfortunately I can't remember if there was even a filter mount back by the fuel pump. I think the electric fuel pump is still mounted. I'll see if I can get a photo of the area while I'm off.

Hmm, there may be a way to make this work, too. I like that it's threaded. That could give you the adjustability you need for a creative application. It's also relatively cheap. https://www.jbugs.com/product/049129412C.html?utm_content=shopping&gclid=Cj0KCQiApOyqBhDlARIsAGfnyMrYlnwBku6XT-gmx765EpQ_c_n1XtiWz4JO2P3e6vYVxrxMArI5hqIaAo1QEALw_wcB

So to see what I could find, I ran across the Edelbrock 8059. (Not me pointing) $245? Maybe it could be done cheaper. Hey, my friend Google suggested a Quadrajet solenoid. Okay, but what cars what the Quadrajet? Chevy V8s after 1966. Let me check with Rockauto about a 73 Camaro with a 350. Hmm, This could work, though it would need a bracket fabricated: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=39841&cc=1034941&pt=10687&jsn=916. It's only $59. Now, where do you mount it? There is a pad on the throttle linkage by the EGR that could be pressed by the solenoid. The bracket could be mounted on the EGR (or on the blocking plate if the EGR has been deleted. How's that?

That was the brand VR I found in my 260Z.

Here's a few for anyone with a lot of money burning a hole in his pocket: https://www.mecum.com/auctions/kissimmee-2024/lots/?auction[0]=Kissimmee 2024|1704153600|1705190400&q=datsun&sortBy=wp_posts_lot_sort_order_asc And if you're looking for later gen Z to round out your stable, there are some opportunities as well: https://www.mecum.com/auctions/kissimmee-2024/lots/?auction[0]=Kissimmee 2024|1704153600|1705190400&q=Nissan&sortBy=wp_posts_lot_sort_order_asc

And if you're REALLY daring, you can pick up a set of 6 fine Chinesium knock-offs for the price of one Walker injector. https://www.amazon.com/YOMTOVM-Injector-0280155712-Compatible-Cadillac/dp/B0CN431KFK Anybody up for a car-b-que? Anyway, searching for the Bosch part number on Amazon shows a lot of refurbs and clones.

I did a search on RockAuto for the part number @HusseinHolland provided. A Walker fuel injector crossed with that part number. Here is the applications list they had for the Walker part. Now given that the Catera was developed from an Opel, I don't know how much carried over from the Opel powertrain.

It's a breadboard, but you were close. The technical terms in America for that kind of relay are form C contacts and SPDT (single pole, double throw). The Bosch terminal numbers for a relay like that are 30, 87 (normally open), and 87a (normally closed).

Well, for whatever reason, my response from this weekend didn't post, but thanks to the software at this site, it wasn't gone forever. Let's look at the circuit for the fan. This is for the 240Z, so it doesn't show the ignition relay, but this is close enough for testing purposes. Also, this assumes you don't have factory AC in your car. The easy way to tell is that the factory AC cars had a 4 speed switch. (You have factory AC per another thread.) So, there is a 2 pin connector on the fan motor. Unplug it. With the key in ACC or ON, you should see voltage to ground at the red wire on that connector. Test for that and report your results. If you do see voltage to ground, you can turn the key to OFF. Now we will focus on the black wire on the connector. Put the fan switch on high. Measure resistance to ground on the black wire and record your results. Put the switch on medium. Measure resistance to ground on the black wire and record your results. Put the switch on low. Measure resistance to ground on the black wire and record your results. (Are you noticing the pattern, yet?) Report your results so we can see what to diagnose next.

I believe this is what @dutchzcarguy is talking about: https://history-computer.com/what-is-a-flip-flop-in-electronics/ You have the output of the circuit going to a relay (coil). The contacts of the coil are in the circuit that go to the circuit you want to pulse. Just make sure the relay is rated for well above the max power of the circuit. You don't want to weld the contacts.

You are correct. That is the control panel for factory AC.