SteveJ

That was one of the things that prompted my initial purchase. I think I saw a post by Tony D over on Zcar.com mentioning adjustable rate flashers. I thought my old flasher relays were too fast (though not hyperflashing), and I thought I'd give it a try. These relays also do not require a separate ground wire like some of the other electronic flashers do. These two pin relays are plug-and-play.

If you want to swap out all of your turn signal bulbs to LED, you'll need electronic flasher relays (turn signal and hazard). I have used this type for over 4 years with no problems, and it's on sale today at Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Audew-Electronic-Signal-Flasher-Motorcycle/dp/B011BTMDQM

I think you may be confused on the operation of the fuel pump relays. Refer to pages EF-6 and EF-7 in the Factory Service Manual. If you don't have a copy, you can get one from the downloads section on this website. There are two fuel pump relays (FPR). FPR1 sends voltage to the fuel pump when the car is running. This is defined as the alternator turning over 400 RPM. The coil wire for FPR1 comes from the yellow wire between the alternator and voltage regulator. This is important to know because swapping the alternator/regulator for an internally regulated alternator will kill the power for the coil for FPR1. FPR2 kills the voltage to the fuel pump when the car is starting. FPR2 has normally closed contacts. They will open when there is power to the starter. The path of the yellow wire for the coil on FPR2 is different between the manual and automatic cars. (Note that this refers to how the car left the factory, not whether or not the current transmission is a manual. People do transmission swaps, but they don't swap the wiring harness at the same time.) You don't need the fuel pump running while cranking since the carburetor should have enough fuel in the bowls to start. Once you release the key for the ignition to go from Start to On, the fuel pump should be running if the alternator is turning over 400 RPM. So, what is happening/not happening with your car that you need to fiddle with the fuel pump relays?

I think we've only been given half a paragraph in the middle of the story.

The fuel pump relay on the 260Z has a low pick up because of the circuit utilized. You want the pickup to be lower than the typical system voltage. Here are two examples that may give you an idea why: When cranking the engine, the battery voltage (an therefore the system voltage) drops down to 10VDC or so. You want the fuel injection and fuel pump relays to pick up. The alternator dies. You still want systems to operate properly until the voltage has decayed some.

"Pull in" means that the contacts are open until it gets to 8VDC. At that point, there is enough of a field that the coil pulls in the contacts, and the normally open circuit is now closed. So that is the minimum operating voltage. "Drop out" means that after the contacts have closed, they will stay closed until the voltage on the coil drops below 5VDC. At that point, the contacts drop out of the circuit, and the circuit is open. It makes sense that they are not equal because it takes more energy to change the state of the contacts from open to close than it does to maintain the contacts closed. https://media.digikey.com/pdf/Other Related Documents/Panasonic Other Doc/Small Signal Relay Techincal Info.pdf

Yes, there is a threshold voltage for generating enough of a field in the coil to pull in the contacts. There is a different value at which point the relay releases. @anthony_c I think this link may have what you're looking for. http://bowery.com/maserati/home/files/bosch relays.pdf

Yes, that's what I use on the battery. Also, the loop tester (also called a clamp meter) is forgiving about polarity. Testing with meter leads is not.

Dan Parkinson's 240Z (the former BRE 46) and 280Z

If you are really interested in doing AC current measurements, use a loop tester. Chances are the inexpensive type like what I linked will work fine. Just remember to isolate the wires and only put the current loop around 1 wire, otherwise the fields will cancel out. The 117 offers non-contact detection. The low impedance features are nice but not must-have. If I was getting a new Fluke, I would be happy with either one.

What? Did you lose my phone number? Fluke meters tend to be very solid meters that hold up a long time. Mine is close to 20 years old, and it doesn't miss a beat. Of course, you could get a Simpson meter, and your grandsons could be fighting over who gets it. My brother grabbed my dad's Simpson when my dad passed away. That meter is probably about 60 years old and just periodically needs batteries. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002R6MWL0/ What do you want to measure? AC Voltage DC Voltage AC Current DC Current Resistance Temperature (via a thermocouple) Capacitance (nice if you need to test the start capacitor on an AC unit for your house) Inductance (Are you curious about whether or not that coil is good?) RPM (nice for tuning and setting idle speed) The catch is that you can't get all of these features in one meters. The Fluke 115 and 117 are good choices if you don't want temperature measurement. The 116 is the one to get if you want temperature measurement more than current. (Frankly, an inexpensive loop meter for current isn't a bad idea. It can be tricky to use leads to measure current and easy to blow the fuse in the meter if you don't do it right. https://www.amazon.com/Mastech-MS2108A-Current-Multimeter-Frequency/dp/B00KXC8GEW) For RPM, I bought this cheap meter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002LZU7K

That's one hell of a carry-on they allowed you for the trip home.

I think you'll find that there's more than enough interest. Heck, if you wanted to make them, @zcardepot.com would probably sell them.

I had copied the specific post where Kats listed the new auction, but something went awry when pasting.

Yes, @kats posted about this car, but he didn't include the link you did.

The ZCCA is trying to increase the block of rooms. This is going to be a busy convention.

Repair plans have been formulated with the goal of being back on the track by the Mitty

It's more of a rebirth than a replica. Randy worked extensively with the BRE team members and photos to capture every detail possible. He bought all of the existing parts still in existence from Dan Parkinson and installed them in the car (except for the engine and transmission which remain on display). While the original body was wrecked in the late 70s, John Morton thought enough of Randy's efforts to give Randy the original car's VIN plate.

I could do it in AutoCAD, but I just haven't decided I needed a color version.

Sad news. The BRE 46 got caught up in an accident at the HSR race in Daytona. Fortunately, John Morton walked away. I haven't seen any photos from the aftermath, but I did hear the car ended up on its roof. Randy said the car is very messed up.

I have an original spare, but it's not from either of my cars.

Oh, you just wanted us to do the legwork for you.

Actually, the OP hasn't returned to this site since a couple of hours after the initial post. I hope he is finding what he's looking for.

From page 62 of section EFEC:

He would need the 240Z distributor mount.