SteveJ

It was a gorgeous day for Trunk or Treat at Caffeine and Chrome. (If you have a Gateway Classic Cars near you, you might want to go to Caffeine and Chrome. There are 21 locations scattered across the US.) The wife passed out candy to kids, and I got to look at cars & chill. The weather is still warm (through Monday) around here, so it was an ideal day to go for a drive and hang out at a car show. I also ended up helping a Z friend. He said he was parking and felt the steering column become loose. He found a bolt on the floor and put it back in, but he said it still felt floppy. I looked at the car and found the other 3 bolts were barely on. Fortunately I had my travel tools with me, so I got the other 3 bolts nice and snug. There was an S130 & a Z32 on consignment there, too.

Here's the video:

I'd say that's less like a shameless plug and more like a helpful offer.

D'oh, I discovered an error in the list. Go back and look at it again. I noted what I changed. @HusseinHolland

1156 dimensions: 67 bulb dimensions: The ones I put for side markers have a dome that has similar dimensions to the 67 bulb even though they are described as 1156. All of the bulbs listed are in use in my cars except for the gauge bulbs. That part number was provided by another member here. They allow for reverse polarity which is important due to a design quirk in the 260Z/280Z gauge light wiring.

Here's a link to my current LED list: The 240Z & 260Z didn't have the inner fender liners. Many 280Z owners discarded them, too. You can replace the headlights without removing the tires, but it's a pain if you have the inner fender liners. If you're not removing the tires, put the front on jackstands so you can turn the wheel easily, and you don't have to sit on the ground.

Since you need it as a daily driver, definitely change the markers and gauges to LEDs. That will help protect that parking light circuit that you already found issues with. And it will reduce the chances for future problems with your headlight switch, too.

Yep, you had me looking at chrome paint the other day. I watched a YouTube video where a guy was trying different chrome paints. He said he got the best results from a chrome nail powder kit from Amazon.

Don't hesitate to reach out to me if you need a hand. With enough notice I can drop in on a weekend to give an extra hand.

I hope you enjoy your night driving, @HusseinHolland.

When I started buying the 6.2mm & 2.8mm connectors, I stocked up on the terminals, too.

With as curious and ingenious as you are, you didn't explore their site? https://www.vintageconnections.com/products/2-8mm-spade-terminals

And if you do go with Wesco, buy the roadster belts, https://www.wescoperformance.com/noname.html. Get the 11 inch sleeves and hardware ($10 extra per side). I have Wesco roadster belts in both of my cars.

Here is the 9-pin connector: https://www.vintageconnections.com/products/2-8mm-connectors?variant=46131774095681 The best thing to do is to change out the lights on the circuit to LEDs and derate the fuse to 10A or less. I really don't think that connector was designed for over 10A.

That would be this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0811GTVH2 It is not round (not important to me), and you have to add a ground wire (again not important to me). It does have an adjustable rate (something I like).

Okay, I was going to look at the earlier wiring diagrams next. Every year Z has some wiring nuances. So you should have the 2 wire door switch, and both wires should ground to the switch with the door open.

I figured that I would use the 73 wiring diagram as an example since I have a good scan of that one. The positive comes from the same circuit as the positive for the dome light. I highlighted it with the red line. It goes to the ignition switch and goes back into the harness as a black wire. (Ugh - black wire as a positive!) It goes over to the driver door switch. When the door is open, the contacts close, and that black wire connects to another black wire that goes to the buzzer. Note that the buzzer has 2 diodes as it is activated by the seat belt circuit and the key in ignition circuit. The driver side switch should have 3 wires. Two of the wires should have continuity with the door open. The third wire should ground to the switch.

What year Z?

I did notice that one site said the part was discontinued. I hope that isn't the case.

Just to follow up on the initial post... I returned to the scene of the crime today. I cut off the connector because it had some damaged wire and put a new 9003 connector on. Both headlights worked. Here's how the connector looked. You can see missing insulation from the positive and burn marks on the insulation on the high beam wire. My friend had some small BA15 bulbs so I replaced the side marker bulbs. The front left and rear right had corrosion, so I used a wire brush on a dremel to remove the corrosion. The front lights also were attached without the weatherstrip block, so I got those in place to protect the lights better. Afterward I convinced the owner that LED bulbs, especially the headlight bulbs, would be a good idea. I hope he follows up with doing that. Yes, he does have my list.

I added that to my list. It's interesting that the part number comes up as the number for the kit with relays, too.

That's the great thing. H4 housings are H4 housings. The ones from the X1/9 should work just fine. I don't have any photos, but for the people who have that set up, I have never had a complaint. I have those bulbs in both of my Zs. As a matter of fact, I did that for a friend's 280Z, and he then brought his other over for me to convert that one, too.

What part number did you order? I'd like to pass the savings along to others.

I would advise against those, @HusseinHolland. That pigtail on the back of the light will make it where it won't fit in an S30 headlight housing. You would have to cut a hole in the housing to run the pigtail out. Then you would have to worry about water getting into the housings, and you would also have more issues integrating it. To me, it's more pain than it's worth. I can't guarantee they are polarity independent. The Fiat Spider has 2 positives and one negative. The Z has 1 positive and two negatives. If the Holley headlights aren't polarity independent, you'll have even more work figuring out how you can integrate relays into the wiring harness. Holley headlight: Inside an S30 headlight housing: (Image from https://www.zeddsaver.com//collections/exterior/products/restored-headlight-bucket-set) That is why I use Hella 7" housings or Koito housings. Paired with the Auxito H4 LED bulbs. It works. As an added bonus, the Auxito bulbs are not polarity dependent. I know you like to experiment, but please trust me on this one. Here are links to my recommended parts: Hella H4 housings: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001G76Q2W or Koito H4 housings: https://parts.toyotasouth.com/oem-parts/toyota-headlamp-assembly-8111060p70 Auxito H4 LED bulbs: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TQLK6SH By the way, Koito is an electrical parts supplier to the Japanese auto industry. You may still have some Koito bulbs in your car. Toshiba was another common supplier back in the day. All together, it would be about $125 to go my route. With the Holley lights, you're starting out over $380, and then you still have the integration issues.

That sounds like a good avenue to pursue.