SteveJ

I want to say this sounds similar to the problems @Redwing was having two years ago that eventually ended up with replacing the AFM and ECU.

Does Canadian spec mean that when you press the horn button, you hear a voice yell out, "Oh, sorry!"?

If that is regular wire, all I can say is DON'T DO IT! You need to use fusible link wire of the proper gauge, otherwise you risk burning up your wiring.

And THAT is why you need to get the fusible links I posted the part number for and do testing before installing them so you don't blow out more.

That's not all. If you notice, the main wiring harness is wrapped in a split loom. That makes me think someone has "worked" on it. I think some components were re-arranged in the engine bay when the "late" 260Zs were produced. Things like this are why I like to put my hands (and test equipment) on a car rather than guess online.

First get replacement fusible links. I would suggest having backup links as well. You need Nissan part numbers 24161-A0100 and 24161-28500. You should be able to give those numbers to the parts department at Gwinnett Place Nissan or Stone Mountain Nissan. If neither dealership will help you, you could order them from http://www.courtesyparts.com. In a pinch, you can get the black and green links from http://www.zcarparts.com or http://www.zcardepot.com, but you will pay more. After you get the replacement fusible links, don't install them. Find the addresses for the best BBQ and best Mexican food places near you. Invite me over to assess what's going on with your electrical system and take me to lunch afterward. Oh, and have a 6 pack of Diet Dew bottles on hand. Don't get the regular stuff. I only drink diet. I can pencil you in for the weekend of the 19th. That should give you enough time to get the fusible links and have a fully charged battery. I'll show up with the proper diagnostic equipment, and I will probably be able to get your car running or give you a pretty good idea of why it won't run. By the way, I like to get off to an early start so I can be done before the heat of the day. Also, go to the downloads section here and download the factory service manual: http://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/12-260z/ You should also download a wiring diagram. Here is where you can find one: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electrical.htm. Download the GIF file of the 260Z wiring diagram. If you want to take me up on my offer, send me a PM with your first and last name, address and phone number.

There was a good discussion on this subject a while back.

http://www.classiczcars.com/store/ - If you want to support this site and keep it online http://www.carpartsmanual.com 24013-N3600 2 SEATER 2+2 SEAT ER MANUAL 24013-N3601 2 SEATER 2+2 SEAT ER Neither source would describe the difference between the two.

http://xenonzcar.com/s30/VIN.html

Give me enough notice. I might be able to go with you.

I had to dig up this old thread. Today at Caffeine and Octane (Atlanta's version of Cars and Coffee) a guy parked behind me with a 240Z. In the engine bay was a 2010 Camaro V6. He said he had to shave the oil pan to get it to clear on the bottom. Unfortunately, the pan material will soak in some oil, and he said the new welds were weeping some oil. So, it will definitely fit. I think the center console had to be modified to fit the manual transmission. Sorry, no photos now, but he doesn't live too far from me. If he starts showing up to club events, I will get some photos.

Yes, you should be able to jumper the contacts at the connector. I'll try to see if I have any video or photos of when I cleaned the switch.

Not too far from me is E. Radatz Motorsports. There are many more inside the building, too.

I'm thinking there might be a ground issue somewhere here. There aren't any dual filament bulbs for the turn signals, are there?

It looks like a good starting point to me. Mmm, factory air...after that trip to Memphis for ZCON 2015 (8 hours each way in 90+ degree weather), I have been thinking of how nice it would be to have AC every now and again.

Okay, after the Kenmeri thread, you KNOW you have to post pics.

http://www.datsunworks.com/Blog/ It makes me wish I had a few thousand to spend.

Z31Atlanta organized a dyno day and opened it up to others. It was only $50 for 3 pulls, so I figured I would find out what the new motor was pulling. I played it conservative because I don't really know much about the actual build, telling them to cut off at 6000 RPM. After seeing the results, I would say I might have left some HP on the table, considering the best run was 122.5 HP (128.0 with WCF) at 6006 RPM (88.6 MPH - and me without a flux capacitor). Peak torque was 109.8 Ft-lb (114.7 with WCF) at 4575 RPM (65.5 MPH). The owner of the shop said it would probably top out around 150 HP on a Dynojet dynomometer. So any educated interpretations of the graph?

I was helping a friend last weekend sort out the same hack job where someone replaced factory FI with carbs and didn't do a good job on the fuel pump wiring. My friend and I tag-team. He provides the mechanical expertise, and I provide the electrical expertise. I'll send you a PM later.

If there was only someone in the Atlanta area who understood the 76 280Z wiring diagram to help you locate the factory wiring and safely modify it to work...

I found the wiring diagram you posted before. The 510 doesn't have the same potential for cross connections as the 240Z. The turn signal switch on the 510 does not affect the brake light circuit. Also the turn signals and brake lights only share a ground. They are in different sockets. The tail light housing serves as the grounding point for the bulb sockets.

Start with the left rear. Remove the bulbs and inspect the sockets. Look for a cracked insulator on sockets that take an 1157 bulb. Look to see if an 1156 bulb was used in a 1157 style base. (Single filament bulb in a dual filament socket) Test with the bulbs out. See if the problem remains. Also post that wiring diagram for the 510 again.

That's why I roll my eyes when I hear someone saying he wants to convert to carburetors because they work better and are more reliable. If I could afford it, I would install FI into my 260Z.

That was the reason I bought over twice as much braided hose as I needed. It gave me the opportunity for a few practice cuts.

Is this the tool you are referring to? http://www.eastwood.com/professional-brake-tubing-flaring-tool.html