SteveJ

Okay. This may help you, too. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/electrical/wiring/dash-body-(from-aug-76)

I posit that you are taking the wrong approach. Troubleshooting would be much easier if you first looked at what could fail. There are four switches that control the circuit and two fuses. Look at these first. 1. Ignition switch 2. Ignition relay (passenger kick panel) 3. Defogger switch 4. Defogger relay (passenger kick panel) Divide and conquer. Take the fuses out and check them for continuity. Turn on the ignition. If the defogger switch lights up, you know the circuit is good up to the defogger relay. If the switch doesn't light up, check for voltage to ground at the blue wire. If it doesn't, you probably have an issue with the ignition relay. However, if other accessories work fine (such as the fan), you can eliminate the accessory relay. If all of that checks out, move to the defogger relay. Check voltage to ground at the blue/white wire and red/white wire. Also make sure there isn't corrosion on the relay body that is insulating it from ground. Have someone operate the defogger switch while you listen closely to the relay. It should click when the switch is operated. If you don't here any clicking, the relay is probably bad. From that relay, the wiring goes along the right side of the car to the back (BE-2). The circuit is grounded in the hatch area.

No tricks here. I just got the videos on a GoPro clone, combined them with Windows Movie Maker, and uploaded the resulting video to Youtube. After I "published" the video, Youtube provided a link to share it. I guess the biggest "trick" is to have a computer with enough horsepower to process the video for editing.

I took the Z to the Georgia Z Club meeting tonight. Here's most of the cars that showed up:

Summit Racing, Jegs, Amazon, RockAuto, Courtesy Nissan, Z specialty vendors. About the only times I go into parts stores anymore are for fluids, batteries, fuses, and wiper blades. I did get a throwout bearing from O'Reillys in February, though. Every rule needs an exception. It just means I have to plan out my work better.

I doubt there is a sane person who likes to drive in Atlanta. With that in mind, we are trying to make it more bearable for visitors. For instance, to get to the autocross and track day events, you'll be driving against traffic. Heck, I'll probably be staying at the hotel (or one nearby) as opposed to driving back and forth from my house each day.

It was my turn to take a drive to enjoy the leaves. I'm working on getting this road included on one of the drives for ZCON 2018.

Did you use a ZX distributor mount?

Here's a link to the manual: Go to the BE section and start on page 70.

Yes.

Go here: http://www.classiczcars.com/files/ Download the FSM for your car. Look in the FE section, usually around page 4. It shows the routing of the hoses.

I wrote some directions here: http://www.zcar.com/forum/10-70-83-tech-discussion-forum/411425-71-240-gas-tank-removal.html

Wastewater treatment plants will sometimes specify conformal coating on electronics in the control systems to prevent this from happening.

Nice.

Jai's battery was tied down when I first saw her car, and the battery was smaller than stock. I made a bracket for her that would work on the battery she had, but it could be adjusted later for a stock sized battery.

The horns are sounded at the same time. One has a high tone, and the other has a low tone.

It's not arrogance. It's your ignorance. I know what I'm doing. Claiming that you know how to use a meter and understanding the results are two different things. You measured resistance from the parking light circuit (constantly hot) to other wires that also go back to the battery, and you don't know why they have continuity. Hint: They are all connected together like they are supposed to be. Study the wiring diagram. I have. You think that a dead short between the fuse box and the combo switch (the description at the start of this thread) is the same as an overloaded circuit. (And I have documented in detail one possible cause for the parking light circuit overload on this board.) I told you to get a tool to help you with diagnostics, and you say that you don't need to because your meter tells you what you need to know. I'll give you another clue. I'm interested in current flow, not voltage or resistance. If you have a typical multimeter, it goes up to 10A. If you tried to hook it up to the parking light circuit in its current condition, you could blow up your damn meter. The brightness of the test light can be used as a relative measure of current. On the other hand, you could buy a clamp DC ammeter that has a high enough scale. A decent one will run you about $40 or more, and you will have to learn the limitations of the meter. Test lights are cheap, and you can get them from any parts store on the way home from work. And yes, it is attitude when you claim to know what you're doing when in reality you are just guessing wildly. It's still attitude when you are indignant when you are called out on your ignorance. If you want help, you have to pay attention to what people tell you to do. If you do not want to follow instructions that will identify your problem, then you are correct that I am not the one to help you.

Here is a stock hold down with how I situated the J bolt

You don't even know what your meter is telling you. That is obvious from your first post. You don't even know the difference between a dead short and an overloaded circuit. What you're lacking in knowledge, however, you're making up with attitude. If you want to drop your attitude and learn how to diagnose your problem, let me know. There are reasons for the instructions I give, and I don't necessarily explain them fully. Then again, I don't need to.

It hooks on the lip.

IMHO, that is not necessarily the sign of a blown engine. If the engine has never been apart, the oil control rings might be too worn to do their job. <sarcasm>Yeah, only 40 years and who knows how many thousands of miles, and the engine is already worn out. Man, that is poor quality.</sarcasm> Get a realistic view. It's an old car. Rings get worn, valve seals & gaskets dry out, water passages experience corrosion, etc. The engine may need to be rebuilt. As long as you can find someone familiar with the L series motors, you'll be in good shape. You can take it to some place like Dandos or Z Car Garage. You have the resources nearby. You just need the cash to pay for it.

It doesn't sound like anything the OP is experiencing. You need a different set of diagnostics, similar to what Dave WM described in post #15. Buy a test light and post back when you have it.

You only needed reinforcement for what you already suspected. Rockauto has a decent price on a Bosch brand listed as new.

I would suspect that it's an issue with the stator and/or brushes. They are more likely to be affected by the increase in speed. I wouldn't see the regulator caring. Does the alternator go back to 14.3 when the engine goes back to idle?

I'm surprised it hasn't folded in half with that rust.