SteveJ

Well, for whatever reason, my response from this weekend didn't post, but thanks to the software at this site, it wasn't gone forever. Let's look at the circuit for the fan. This is for the 240Z, so it doesn't show the ignition relay, but this is close enough for testing purposes. Also, this assumes you don't have factory AC in your car. The easy way to tell is that the factory AC cars had a 4 speed switch. (You have factory AC per another thread.) So, there is a 2 pin connector on the fan motor. Unplug it. With the key in ACC or ON, you should see voltage to ground at the red wire on that connector. Test for that and report your results. If you do see voltage to ground, you can turn the key to OFF. Now we will focus on the black wire on the connector. Put the fan switch on high. Measure resistance to ground on the black wire and record your results. Put the switch on medium. Measure resistance to ground on the black wire and record your results. Put the switch on low. Measure resistance to ground on the black wire and record your results. (Are you noticing the pattern, yet?) Report your results so we can see what to diagnose next.

I believe this is what @dutchzcarguy is talking about: https://history-computer.com/what-is-a-flip-flop-in-electronics/ You have the output of the circuit going to a relay (coil). The contacts of the coil are in the circuit that go to the circuit you want to pulse. Just make sure the relay is rated for well above the max power of the circuit. You don't want to weld the contacts.

You are correct. That is the control panel for factory AC.

There's an easy way to tell if your car has factory AC. How many speeds are there on the fan switch?

The most likely culprits that come to mind are a corroded rocker in the switch or a nub that pushes on the rocker is wearing out.

See how the turn signals behave with the car at idle. If it's still the same, hold the engine at 2000 RPM and see if it changes.

If you don't have factory AC, you're paying for many hoses that you don't need. I responded to your threads on the blower motor and turn signals. I didn't see one on the parking lights. If you did create it, tag me in the thread so I can find it.

As usual, I will start with a flurry of questions. LED or incandescent bulbs? How old are the flasher units? Is the car running during these observations? If the car is running, are you driving or at idle? The reason for these questions is that old flasher units worked off the principle of a bimetal strip heating up. Since the two metals have different coefficients of expansion, the strip bends as current flows and breaks contact in the circuit. After the circuit is open, the strip cools rapidly and snaps back into place, closing the circuit. From there it's a continuation of wash, rinse, repeat. The hazards could work while the turn signals don't because of many possible reasons The flasher isn't used as much. The switch isn't used as much so it doesn't have corrosion on the contacts Since there are more bulbs (parallel paths) in the hazard circuit, more current is flowing. Note: this especially applies if you have LED bulbs.

I was going to post about the hotel reservations opening, but I forgot.

I don't think either one interferes with the installation of the other.

Me, too.

Belmetric.com also has JIS bolts and nuts.

Check the voltage at the solenoid when trying to start. It would be nice to know the current flow into the solenoid, too. The other option would be to throw a new solenoid at it, but I'm not a fan of the parts cannon.

Start 3 new threads. Blower motor Turn signals Parking lights They are 3 different circuits, and you don't need the great unwashed in the peanut gallery steering you down rabbit holes.

Yes, it is normal. The only way to prevent any fuel vapors would be to chill the tank below the vapor point of all of the volatile organic compounds (VOCs) in the fuel. Since it isn't practical to refrigerate the fuel tank and the ambient temperatures in the summer are well above the vapor point of the VOCs, Nissan has the carbon canister to capture most of the fugitive emissions from the fuel tank. On the other hand, you have to allow some make up air into the tank to allow the fuel to flow to the fuel pump. That is why you need the two-way check valve. Here is how the purge system works in modern cars: https://www.samarins.com/glossary/purge-valve.html

You don't want to over pressurize the tank. You want the carbon canister catching the vapor, not venting to atmosphere when someone pulls the gas cap.

And to clarify further, there is one for the round top. The last part number is for the flat tops. I'll look to see what are on my 73 & 74 if I can remember by the time I get home.

@HusseinHolland I decided to get some empirical data on the headlight housing temperature rise when using the LED headlights. I drove the 260Z to a car meet. The lights were on for about 50 minutes. Ambient temperature was about 49 degrees, and the outside of the metal housings were 50 degrees according to my IR thermometer. I didn't try to get an IR reading on the front of the housings.

So the connector for the wiper motor in the engine bay should be like this: Note that it only has 5 wires. For the combo switch connector, the dash harness side should be this: GL GW LW L LY LR So your connector on the dash harness is correct. On the switch side, you should have YG GL GW LR RL YB So your switch is correct. Verify the dash to engine harness connectors and wiper motor connector per my earlier post.

I don't think you're looking at the correct connectors. I will take a picture later to show you the connector for the wiper motor to line up to my post.

So depending upon the build date, you could see some variations in wiring. Here are the connectors for a late 71. The dash to engine harness has a stacked 3-pin connector for the grounds coming from the stalk. For the wiper motor connector, the one I think you have labelled as B, you look at it facing the side that connects to the wiper motor. The indents are at the top. Top row: L LY LW Bottom row: empty B LR From the manual: And here's from the 70 manual in case you have an early 71: (Note that the wiper grounds from the switch are in a 4 pin connector with only the 3 wires coming from the switch.) IIRC, the wire layout for the motor itself doesn't change from 70 to 73.

The infamous Tony D clued me in on the existence of adjustable rate flashers. Once I tried them, I knew they were keepers.

So for this test, you can disconnect the battery negative. In the engine bay, disconnect the 6 pin connector (with 5 wires) for the wiper motor. It's on the fire wall. For this testing, ignore the LR wire. That is the positive. Testing: Put your meter on resistance. Have the wiper switch in OFF. Measure L to LW. It should have low resistance. LW should not have continuity with LY or B. LY and B should not have continuity. Put the wiper switch in LOW. You should have continuity between B, L, and LW. LY should not have have continuity with the other wires. Put the wiper switch in HIGH. You should have continuity between B, LW, and LY. L should not have have continuity with the other wires. Ideally you should see this: Report your results

Another thing is that we don't know how many different H4 LED bulbs he looked at. I lucked out 3 years ago when I got the Auxito bulbs. I first purchased them in late 2020. It was about a year later when I found they were polarity independent because I already had relays in my car.

No, he is knowledgeable about wiring and headlights, but that doesn't mean he's always correct in his assessments.