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SteveJ
Free Member
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Everything posted by SteveJ
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@Captain Obvious might have some insight. -
It looks similar to this one to me.
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I found its cousin in the Atlanta area: https://atlanta.craigslist.org/wat/cto/6056995502.html $1500 for a roller missing doors, glass, and most of the sheetmetal. Also what is there is somewhat rusty.
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I'm going to say that it will fetch at least $19,000
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No, I'm a sparky. That's why I'm interested in the TIU tester.
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Actually, I'm still diagnosing electrical systems. The ignition module tester would get a workout from me.
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Be sure to post what you find out about the alternator and wiring. It may help someone else out in the future.
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I bet that left a mark.
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So did you get your questions answered?
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I think you're in popular company on this board with those views. My 73 240Z is numbers matching and modified with early bumpers and carburetors and 5 speed to name a couple of changes. It won't fetch the big bucks, though. My 260Z is modified quite a bit including 240Z bumpers, early carburetors, and an L28. I was going to keep it numbers matching, but I got the rebuilt engine for far cheaper than I could have rebuilt the original. I believe that too many in the modified camp think they will get dollar for dollar (or more) back. I just don't see it happening, at least for now.
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By definition, a short is bypassing the load on a circuit, so you never had a short. A cross-connection is a connection between circuits that should not exist. Bleed over is you backfeed a circuit due to a poor/lost source or ground. (An example of that is the dim headlight caused by a blown fuse.) What you have is a cross-connection. It can be caused by using the wrong bulb. It can also by the contacts in the bulb coming together due to a failed insulator. A less likely scenario is corrosion or metallic debris in the light socket. The bulb is easy to diagnose. Remove the bulb. If it has one contact on its base while the socket has two contacts, there's your problem. Unfortunately you give no background on your problem. Is the car new to you? Did this just happen? Did it happen after you changed a bulb? You also don't say what year car you have. I made the assumption that you have a 240Z since the symptoms you described fit the circuitry of a 240Z.
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I thought this was helpful when I was assisting a friend with a GM Alternator on an LS-6 swap into a 240Z: http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Wiring/Part2/
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Turn your head to the right. Then you can see it says Delco-Remy. It's definitely a GM alternator. I believe it has connectors for Sense and Lamp, but it won't be a T connector. I would have to see the alternator to tell you where those connectors are exactly. I've only touched two GM alternators in the last 30 years, and I don't have a lot of knowledge on the placement of the connectors.
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Don't forget about @Zed Head and @Captain Obvious. They are on top of a lot of the electrical threads. Heck, I appreciate all of the information provided by others, too. You don't see many questions from me because I have been reading here and find my solutions frequently before I have the problem. I just try to store away as much information from this site as possible.
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Well, I couldn't leave well enough alone. I decided to experiment a little. I bought a fork cap tool and reamed it out to fit a gland nut. Sorry for the picture quality. I didn't feel like getting a better camera when I was done.
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He really liked that place...
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I was forced to drive my Z around today by this miscreant (@Captain Obvious). He demanded that I take him to the Georgia Racing Hall of Fame/Dawsonville City Hall. (Fortunately it's the same building.) We look homeless in this photo, don't we?
