SteveJ

Considering it's been about a month since @Mike has been here, all I can say is that I hope he isn't going through anything too bad.

That's just a random 280Z I pulled up. As for clamps, here's a starter set for you that won't break the bank. https://www.amazon.com/30pcs-Assortment-Automotive-Agriculture-Construction/dp/B07NPDMXM5

Here: And don't use worm drive clamps. Use the proper clamps for fuel injection hose. The worm drive clamps aren't designed for the pressure you can see in that part of the fuel system.

The first thing to check is fuel pressure. What is it at idle, and what happens when you try to accelerate? Is the fuel line to the fuel pump routed like the factory line, or is it kinked? If you put a fluid line clamp (https://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-fluid-line-clamp-set-65116.html) on the outlet of the FPR, does that reduce the problem? (Tip, don't clamp it down too tightly, just enough to raise the fuel pressure some. Also, don't make us guess about what year your car is. While we can be sure it's a 280Z, some parts did change over the years. Have you downloaded the FSM and looked through the EF section? How about the fuel injection bible?

If you're not replacing the MC, drain as much fluid as you can out of it. I like using a turkey baster to draw out the fluid and then wipe the interior of the MC with clean, lint free cloths. That way you can pull a lot of debris out of the MC.

Was the fluid light or dark? Replace the soft lines when doing the brakes, especially if you don't know how old they are. Use flared nut wrenches when working on brake lines to prevent rounding the nuts for the fittings. Bleed at the master cylinder first, then bleed the corners. The pedal going to the floor could be air at the MC.

There's this: https://resurrectedclassics.com/collections/emblems/240z I'll be dropping by their place next week if you want me to put eyes on them.

Actually, I was just talking to Wendy about following up on if Nooga G/Z wanted to host a get-together around Chattanooga due to its proximity to several cities in the Southeast. I have to check with the GZC president to put it back on his radar.

The wiper arms for the pinned blades came from a 77 or 78.

Now Atlanta wasn't hot in October. Austin and Memphis in July? That's another story. I remember getting out of my car on the front stretch of the track for the group photo. The front stretch of the track was also a drag strip. Between the heat and the rubber from the drag tires on that part of the track, my feet almost became permanently affixed to the track.

Well, I have been involved with the planning of a ZCON. As you mentioned before, it's mostly about the track day. When the rest of the committee suggested October for the 2018 convention, I thought they were bonkers. However, I was COMPLETELY wrong. It just so happens that October is about the least rainy month in the Atlanta area. Z1 Motorsports was also generous enough to run the track day and People's Choice show for the convention when they normally would have held ZNationals. Yes, they got a cut of the convention proceeds, but I suspect it was less than they usually clear on ZNationals. The end result was that we had a great turnout for ZCON 2018. It was an incredible undertaking that I never wish to attempt again. 🙂 ZCON 2020 was a little different. Covid was threating the convention, but just before the ZCCA threw in the towel, Nissan approached them about the debut of the new Z. The convention was in September, and the pandemic kept the attendance down some. It was nice having it in September instead of the middle of summer. The weather actually started cooling off quite a bit around the time of the People's Choice show on Saturday. After attending two cooler month ZCONs and 3 VERY hot ZCONs, I certainly prefer the milder weather.

Post #5

Hottest part of the year at the peak of hurricane season with the hotel being right at the USF campus. Nope, nope, and OHFN.

Not all Zs are in California for ZCON this week. I made sure I parked in the shade. Maybe I'll install AC next year.

I would find a parallel flow condenser if you're going with R134a. This site has a wide variety including models with the drier mounted to the condenser. https://nostalgicac.com/parallel-flow-condensers.html

Don't worry, John. I'm not making the trip down.

It was formally announced last night. Tampa Sep 9-14 @Yarb and @Dave WM will be hosting all of us who are coming down. 😉

I sent Max a message telling him you're interested in seeing the back side of the hubcaps.

If you blew the fuse holding the washer button, that means the combination of the washer motor and wiper motor exceeded the current limits of the fuse for too long. Where specifically are you measuring 4 VDC? Keep in mind that for the washer motor, the washer button only completes the path to ground. It doesn't send voltage to the washer motor. positive side of the washer motor has voltage to ground any time the wiper fuse in the fuse box is hot. Review my post on how the circuit is wired and look at that PDF. So having said that, unplug the washer motor. Put the key in ON. Measure voltage to ground at the blue/red wire at the washer motor. What is that voltage?

Okay, so if you haven't cleaned up the contacts, do so and try it again. The good news is that there are no breaks in the wires, and the switch is functioning. I'll have to think of some more diagnostics later to verify what's working and not working.

As long as S1 and L1 line up color-wise, your high and low beams will be correct.

I went back and confirmed. The wiper function isn't on the 70-72. The nice thing is that you got me thinking more about how the wiper switch works since I'm trying to adapt the Sentra wiper amplifier to the 73-78.

Actually, from 73 on, the wipers should single swipe with the washer. (If you hold down on the button, they should keep swiping.) It's probably the same with the 70-72, but I'm not sure if that's a function of wiper amplifier. While there looks to be 9 wires going to the amplifier, there are only 7 in reality as there is only one 12VDC+ (B terminal) and one ground (E terminal) on the amplifier. So as the notes say in the picture, when you press on the washer button, you are completing the ground leg on the washer motor. At the same time, you are grounding the W terminal on the amplifier and providing 12VDC+ on the I terminal. That should get the wiper motor to swipe. I attached a PDF where I highlighted the wires going to the I (Blue), B (Red), and W (Green) circuits. Now for the final testing. The car should be off for this test. Plug in the combo switch and unplug the LW wire from the washer motor. Have someone hold the washer button. While the button is pushed in, measure resistance to ground from the LW wire at the wiper motor. It should be less than 1 ohm. (Note the scale if you have an autoranging meter.) Now for the more PITA test. With the car still off, get up to the relay panel on the passenger kickpanel. Unplug both connectors on the amplifier. Have someone hold the washer button while you measure continuity between the LR wire on one connector to the blue wire on the other connector. That should be less than 1 ohm. 1974 Wiper Motor Circuit.pdf

Just a minor clarification: Also the R and R/Y wires in the dash harness no longer connect to the fuse box. They are grounded.