SteveJ

IMHO the crankiness at zcar.com relates to the fact that people get a Z car (or maybe even before they get one) just type in zcar.com. There seems to be an influx of those types of people around times that schools go on break. They ask "gimme" type questions, refuse to research, and frequently reject correct answers. Usually to find this site, a person actually has to do at least a little bit of searching to find the URL. As for David's problem, I thought I saw that he said he restored wiring to stock, and it worked. Since he was talking about a mass of blue wires, I suspect he was looking around the EFI relay.

If the injectors are firing, you should see about a 2 VDC drop across the injectors when the circuit is complete. What is the pressure in the rail? Have you downloaded the fuel injection bible? http://www.xenons130.com/reference.html It has some good diagnostics in there.

Step into the light and install the SUs. They are easy to clean up, and you'll be able to close your hood.

The stock horn circuit works by the horn button on the steering wheel completing the path to ground for the horn relay. The wire contacts the back of the steering wheel. You can see the contact ring in the first attached picture. A wire runs from that to the front of the steering wheel. When you push the horn button, the front ring makes contact with the steering column, completing the path to ground. I hope this helps.

In Chrome, IE & Firefox, there is a menu bar on the left side of the screen that has a link. If you don't have a menu bar on the left, http://www.datsunclassifieds.com will work.

I believe you are misreading the contact chart. The brake lights and turn signals use the same bulb at the rear of the car. Therefore, when you activate the switch to indicate a left or right turn, you have to interrupt the circuit for the brake lights on that side. Note: the colors are for the dash wiring harness. In the switch, the wire color for from the flasher unit changes from W to G. So in the chart above, the GY wire is the positive for the brake light circuit. In the middle position, it makes contact with the WR (left rear) and WB (right rear) bulb circuits. When you move the switch to indicate a left turn, the switch breaks contact between the WR and GY wires and establishes contact between the W (coming from the flasher unit and turning green at the switch) and WR wires. The switch also connects the W wire to the GR wire to complete the circuit for the front turn signal. The GY wire only makes contact with the WB wire. When you move the switch to indicate a right turn, the switch breaks contact between the WB and GY wires and establishes contact between the W (coming from the flasher unit and turning green at the switch) and WB wires. The switch also connects the W wire to the GB wire to complete the circuit for the front turn signal. The GY wire only makes contact with the WR wire. If you step on the brakes while your turn signal is flashing, you will notice that at the rear of the car, only one side lights up solid while the other blinks to indicate the position of the turn signal switch. If you look at this picture: https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2012/12/04/turn-signal-repair/turnsignal_repair_25/, you can see that there are TWO rockers in the switch. The upper rocker is for the brake light circuit, and the other rocker is for the turn signals. If you notice, the upper rocker has one contact pad per side. The turn signal rocker has two per side. When you activate the turn signal switch, it will push the brake light rocker away from the contact pad on that side while it pushes the turn signal rocker down to make contact. Let me know if you still have questions.

Thank you. This is how it's wired for the ZX distributor in my 73.

What year car do you have? Edit: I don't know why I didn't see the title of the thread clearly. Okay, disconnect the TIU. The male terminals on the ignition module get connected to the positive wire coming to the ballast and negative on the coil. As the write-up on AtlanticZ says, Terminal C gets positive. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributor/9.pg_small.jpg Then find the green and red wires coming from the 76 distributor and connect to the green and red wires from the ignition module. Secure the module, and try it out. If you don't have red and green wires attached to the module, let me know. I know I have a spare module hanging around the garage somewhere that I could use to guide you further.

If I can remember, I'll look at my 73. It's actually pretty easy to wire in.

Are you using a lead substitute? Look at the picture of the MMT fouled plug: http://www.classictruckshop.com/clubs/earlyburbs/projects/spark/plugs.htm.

As a matter of fact, in both of the links I provided in #2, it describes what you should see in testing the components with a VOM. Repair without proper testing is just guessing.

Thanks, Guy. After I get a scissor lift, I plan on replacing the rear bumper. I figure it will be easier to drop the tank that way.

I took the 260Z out to Caffeine & Octane today. The people running the show love having the old Z cars in attendance. Unfortunately the perceived cold weather kept some away. The rest of today's pictures are at https://stevescartography.wordpress.com/2015/02/01/caffeine-and-octane-feb-2015-new-location-101-photos/.

There is that possibility. While I have a 73 dash harness in my garage, I've never done a comparison against the wiring drawing to look for errors. Knowing that several of us on this site have found errors in the 280Z wiring drawings, there could be some omissions & errors in the 72 FSM wiring drawing.

For the flasher circuit, if you want to put it back to stock, see https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2013/01/20/hazard-switch-brake-light-turn-signal-circuit-analysis/ I don't see anything in the wiring diagram that would indicate a blue wire spliced into a red wire, or vice versa. Can you locate connectors that have these wires? (An ohmmeter or cable toner could help in cases like this.) The spiral stripe on the red/blue wire makes me suspect it is not stock either. Unfortunately, I think you have your work cut out for you.

Classifieds shows up on the left-hand column with Windows based browsers. I think it did the same on my tablet, as well. You can always access it by the URL: http://www.datsunclassifieds.com/.

I found this in a craigslist search for Datsun: http://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/cto/4864591925.html I'm not really sure I'd call it a Dune Buggy, though.

The 240Z was pushed by the Japanese government as a way to deal with the fall out of the Tet Offensive.

Happy to see the bright lights.

Are you sure it's not the switch itself?

There is a black wire going to each socket. Check the resistance from that wire to ground. It's always good to check the reading of your meter with the leads touching each other first. That gives you the resistance in your meter. Your reading on each socket should be pretty low.

That's about what it would have cost for me to send one ball bearing to you. Are you sure you don't have a grounding issue? Measure resistance to ground on each side. They should be about the same.