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SteveJ
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Everything posted by SteveJ
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Interesting thought. You would have to intercept the R & RY wires coming out of the fusebox at the connector and send them to the 85 pin. Connect the 86 pins to the high/low beam switch. Then you could connect the R & RY wires downstream to fuses and to the battery. Have the 87 pins on the relays hooked to the RB & RW wires that were removed from the high/low beam switch and ground the 30 pins. -
I prefer to bring the new positive lead into the 87 pin. If you bring it into the 30 pin, then the 87a pin is hot when the headlights are off, giving you a chance to short circuit and blow the headlight fuse. Otherwise, the second drawing is correct. I hope the picture below helps some more.
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My wife will probably drive up in her own car. She is picky about having AC.
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If they have track day at AMP next year, I'll be better prepared. I have a telephoto lens to help get the shots on track.
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It's all the same circuit. Download the manual supplement from XenonS30. Inspect the side markers and front markers. Sometimes corrosion can build up and short the lights. Inspect the connector between the combo switch and the dash h arness for evidence of overheating. Inspect your fuse box. Between poor contact between the fuse clip & fuse and the extra current from corrosion in the marker lights, the fuse box has been known to melt down. Having eliminated all of that, the contacts in the switch could be coated with too much carbon, preventing the circuit from closing.
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How about the side markers and dash lights? Are they coming on?
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While this circuit is specifically for a 72, it should work for your car: Hazard Switch ? Brake Light ? Turn Signal Circuit Analysis | Fiddling With Z Cars As you can see from the diagram in the link, there is no interface between the brake lights and the emergency brake, just as Jim said. On the other hand, the emergency brake handle does have a contact for the brake warning light in the instrument cluster.
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Stock 240Z - No. Nismo Voltage Stabilizer on ebay - Nissan : Datsun ZCar forum :Nissan Z Forum: 240Z to 370Z
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I have seen an alternator pass at a parts store, yet I pushed my friend to replace it anyway. Sure enough, his charging problems disappeared. I agree with the good Captain. Inspecting the links is a good idea.
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This has been covered many times. Do you have a stock ignition, or does your car have a ZX distributor? 1. Get a can of dusting air. 2. Drive the car until it stalls. 3. Hold the can upside down and spray the coil. The liquid will cool the coil quickly. 4. See if the car starts immediately. 5. If not, do the same to the ECU. 6. If not the ECU, do the same to the TIU or ignition module (whichever your car has). If that doesn't help with the diagnosis, let us know. There are some other diagnostics you can do.
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You can get thinner rolls of the dry wiring loom tape on ebay. I have a bunch in my garage.
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I know that Mark maintained the Fuel Injection. I don't recall hearing if he maintained stock ignition, too.
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I think you'd have more success with vinegar than baking soda. The latter requires scrubbing. Actually, a baking soda solution is good for rinsing after using the vinegar. Also, if you need new connectors, OEM-Type Bullet & Spade Electrical Connectors for 1960's through 1970's Japanese Vehicles... Bridgestone, Datsun, Hodaka, Honda, Kawasaki, Landcruiser, Suzuki, Tohatsu, VW, & Yamaha has most of the ones you need.
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I got to see 5 Panteras together last weekend when I went to a car show at the BMW plant in SC.
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The 74 is still externally regulated. He'd have to dig the one out of the 73, and that one is surrounded by hazards that scare me. It's dodgy at best to attempt that strategy.
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Yep, I thing post #12 might work.
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Yeah, that's probably a steal.
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I should be home over the weekend if you need some help. Send me a PM.
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Pull the alternator and take it to a shop to be tested. Sometimes their testing equipment will reveal a bad VR.
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Another possibility is the failure of the internal voltage regulator in your alternator. If you are mechanically inclined, I believe replacements are available. Check the T plug first.
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Also, quality tools are usually purchased once and used for a long time. For instance I have a Fluke multimeter that has held up well for close to 15 years. My brother still has my dad's old Simpson meter (in addition to a Fluke) that has held up great for close to 50 years. Maybe a good thread would be to rate parts & tools, especially the quality tools. Sometimes the inexpensive can be good, too. I bought new front turn signal lenses and gaskets from Blackdragon Auto. They were much cheaper than the competition, fit well, and gave me no problems. They look really good, too.
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It worked fine for me.
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This is Mark's car. He did not end up selling it. Update: I sent a message to Mark via FB. He should be making an appearance here.
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I don't think Mark is on this forum. He may be on Hybridz, though I don't know his screen name.
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I took the Z out for a drive up to the BMW plant in South Carolina today to enjoy the Eurofest auto show. As I drove on I-85 in South Carolina, I had a red 911 convertible shadowing me, and later a green 914 was in tow. Going back, I had a black 911 convertible shadowing me for the entire time I was on I-85. Maybe they thought I would get pulled over first should the troopers show up. I had issues uploading the pictures to my Flickr account today, but I should have them online tomorrow if you want to check out my website. Update: The pictures are online at http://stevescartography.wordpress.com
