SteveJ

You probably installed the battery with the poles reversed. If you are lucky, you only fried the fusible links. Step 1: Buy new fusible links. (Remember there is a 5th link not in this shot.) Step 2: Replace the fusible links. Step 3: Use an ohmmeter to figure out which battery cable is the negative. It will be the one that has about 1 ohm resistance to the chassis ground. Step 4: Mark the negative cable so you remember which one it is. A stripe of colored electrical tape would work nicely for that. Step 5: While having a fire extinguisher close at hand, re-install the battery. Put the positive cable on the positive terminal of the battery. Put the negative cable on the negative terminal of the battery. Step 6: Figure out if you burned up anything else.

One nice thing about buying Dave's relay harness (via Motorsport Auto) is that it's plug and play. I would suggest going that route.

Actually, it looks like you missed Easy Street.

I believe it is 13502-E3000 INDICATOR-TIMING.

No, they are weird things. It's just the current finding an alternate path to ground. It just takes a path you weren't expecting.

Common Rust Area's Of The 240-Z What To Watch For When Buying A First Generation Z Car. General Discussion - Buying A Z Car:

I saw an AMC Eagle in one of the pictures.

I gave that idea some thought, Jim, but there could be a downside. We may get creeped out by Cliff (sightunseen) and Phil (Blue) staring at our shoes.

Supplier of next-to-last resort. (Last resort = reddat due to his pricing) I just looked at a listing for windshield wiper grommets posted by Al (aka Datsun Parts, LLC). While I'm pretty sure he is selling new parts, he also posted a picture of a windshield wiper grommet installed but with a lot of overspray.

I met Eiji when I was a member of the Z Car Club of Northern Virginia. Sometimes he brought some of his interesting toys to the club meetings. I would also see him running his car up and down Prince William Parkway. He is the real deal. I'm not sure who made the original post, though. Whomever it was has not come back since. Guy, aka Diseazed, knows him well.

Be sure to search on this site, too. There are plenty of posts on headlights.

Look at the drawing for the 260Z circuit. The wire colors are the same, but the connectors and fuse locations are a little different. The W/R wire comes off the battery/alternator and goes to the headlight switch. It comes out as a Red wire. The R wire goes to the left & right headlight fuses and comes out R for the right headlight and R/Y for the left headlight. There are two wires that come off each headlight and go back to the high/low beam switch. The R/W wire is for the high beams, and the R/B wire is for the low beams. The switch determines which of those two wires is connected to ground.

Here is another, if I am right: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-490-710/overview/

I thought it was more like these: Amazon.com: AAS Metric Bubble Flare Adapter 271300, 5pcs M10 X 1.0: Automotive

Well, the Delta Z Club landed the 2015 convention, God rest their souls. We're going to have to get some caravans going out to Memphis. I already put the bug in Chad Bartelme's ear about Z1 Motorsports being the starting point for a group to drive up there from Georgia.

Matt, did you see the 240Z on CL? 1972 Datsun 240Z It's near Savannah.

Yes, Sir. My wife is already planning the trip...me in a Z and her in her air-conditioned station wagon. (At least if there's a swap meet at the convention, the wagon will hold plenty of parts. )

Back 17 years ago, I bought a dash cap for my 73. When I was placing my order, I was warned that 1 of 2 parts would fit. The first one they sent didn't fit. The second fit just fine. Sorry, but I don't have any notes on the details.

Show a picture of the wire and connector in the engine bay.

1. E=Earth=Ground. Typical DC wiring conventions use wire with solid black insulation for circuits connected to ground. Remove the bolt above the E. Slide the ring connected to the black wire over the bolt and put the bolt back. 2. BAT=B. The White/Red wire goes to the battery. 3. Plug it into the T socket on the alternator.

Also, home improvement stores sell closed cell foam for pipe insulation. You have to know what you're looking for because there is usually open cell foam next to it.

And that is the gist of what I put in post #8.

This leads to what I posted earlier. If the concern is to shut off when the engine is not running, the best solution may be to come off the fuel pump relay. IIRC, it will drop out if the oil pressure drops too low. Another possible solution is to use a time off relay connected to the ignition circuit. That way if the car dies while running, you don't immediately lose the lights, but as soon as you turn the car off, the timer would start. That would happen regardless of whether or not the key is removed.

Pictures of the extra parts would be helpful.

It was another Caffeine & Octane Sunday. I love a good excuse for taking the Z out. See the rest...Caffeine and Octane ? August 2014 (154 Photos) | Steve's CARtography