SteveJ

No, it is not normal. Hazard Switch ? Brake Light ? Turn Signal Circuit Analysis | Fiddling With Z Cars

Tell me what wires go to what pins, and I can probably tell you what the pins are.

There is an intermittent connection, possibly a crack in a trace. As the radio heats up from being on, it expands enough to make contact. As it cools, it contracts, and the contact is broken.

Here are a couple of more pictures of it that are in my archives.

I know the owner. He was at Caffeine & Octane yesterday. He said that not only is the engine lighter, the transmission is much lighter than the Z transmission due to the aluminum bell housing.

I think there are some pictures of this beast floating around on the Georgia Datsun Lovers group on Facebook, as well. I met Matt Isbell at The Mitty in 2011. I saw a racing trailer in the infield with a Datsun flag, so I had to wander over to see what was up. He sometimes shows up to Caffeine & Octane, too. I can't remember if he brought this Datsun to C&O. If he did, it's probably in my photo archives somewhere. He does own some wild machinery.

It was Caffeine & Octane day in Atlanta, too. We're a little better organized through Facebook and the Georgia Z Club, so we had about 14 S30s and 3 S130s today. Here's a link to the full picture set: Caffeine and Octane ? September 2014 Edition (173 photos) | Steve's CARtography After that I drove the Z over to someone's house to help him with his 280ZX. After confirming it was a fuel pump issue, we got a new pump, he installed it, and the car roared back to life.

Do you get the feeling that the person who posted the ad may have trust issues?

I finished up the air dam install and early front bumper on the 260Z. Old New I really enjoyed the project because it tested my fabrication skills. You can read the details here: https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/260z-air-dam-and-front-bumper/

Only if you're worried about staying 100% stock. Frankly I prefer being able to see my instruments clearly at night and not melting down the fusebox/wiring.

As Jim said, it should be M8x1.25. I bought a shift knob on ebay from datsun_bluebird. It was an M10 thread in the knob. I drilled out the thread and used a threaded insert to get M8 threads.

Doubtful, Captain. When the key is in the START position, the Green/White wire gets 12 VDC and doesn't go through the resistor. It goes through the tach and comes out Black/White, going on to the coil. In the ON position, a Black/White wire carries 12 VDC to the ballast resistor and comes out as the Green/White wire described above. Unless someone monkeyed around in the dash harness, the G/W wire should be connected one of the terminals energized when the key is in the START position.

While it's cranking, see if you're getting 12VDC to ground at the positive terminal of the coil. Most likely, you're having issues with the switch on the back on the ignition key.

Meh. I drove the 74 to the convention in Savannah in 2011. Just get up early in the morning to get to the hotel at check-in time. Then shower off the sweat. In the interests of full disclosure, She Who Must Be Obeyed drove her car separately to enjoy the benefits of air conditioning.

ZNationals will be in Carrollton this year. ZCON will be in Memphis in 2015. You are expected at both. And your claims of ignorance have been formally dismissed since you posted in the thread on the 2015 convention. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/open-general-discussions/51319-2015-zcar-convention.html#post462865 The kangaroo court finds you guilty.

I have many switches on hand. I think Dave Irwin has some, too, and he repairs switches. If you want to look him up here, his user name is Zs-Ondabrain. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/members/zs-ondabrain.html

A non-running Z isn't running isn't enough of a reason to skip ZNationals. Cliff - You're planning on going to ZNationals, aren't you?

What are you using for your ignition? Are you using the stock TIU? If there is nothing to change the state of the field in the coil, you won't see potential because you're just measuring across a wire, not a load. If you want to see if you have voltage at the coil, 1. Disconnect the positive wire from the coil. 2. While holding the positive wire away from the chassis or any other grounded parts, have someone put the key into the ON position. 3. Measure the voltage from the positive wire to the chassis ground. You should get around 9 volts if you still have the ballast resistor in the circuit. Check your rotor, distributor cap, and ignition. This may help you in your quest, as well: Test Your Ignition System - Randy's Repair Shop

My guess is that it's shorted right where the power wire comes in.

Here's another parts source for you: DatsunParts.COM Inc.- Datsun Roadster Parts

I'm thinking the number will be on the higher side of the 10 to 15 estimate for ZNationals, provided the weather is good. I can name at least 10 people in the Atlanta area that I expect to show up. I'm also going to hang out at track day since it's in my neck of the woods. Anyway, Greg, I think there's an active club in the Chattanooga area. Scenic City Z Club Besides ZNationals, the next ZCON will be in Memphis.

Isn't that overrider bar for the rear bumper? Anyway, who wouldn't want to own a palomino Z?

I removed the front valence from the 74 today. I will probably remove the front bumper while I'm at it. I only broke three bolts. Two of those were on the left turn signal. The left turn signal lens was already cracked, and the removal process finished the job. So I have new lenses and gaskets on order, and the air dam is ready to go on. I guess it's time to put on those stainless steel bumpers that have been hanging around in the garage for about a year.

I would guess that one is for the nitrous oxide and the other is for fuel. Going lean while boosting would be very bad.

The blow characteristics are actually a function of time and current. For instance: Fuse Time-Current Curves - Specialty Control Systems