SteveJ

Swap to early style fiberglass bumpers, ditching the stock bumper brackets. You'll have to fabricate brackets for the bumpers. Here's a link to how I did it for stainless steel bumpers: 260Z Air Dam and Front Bumper | Fiddling With Z Cars Swap to carbon fiber hood and hatch. Ditch the spare tire.

The electrical pump doesn't pump at the start. No. Yes. Remember, the mechanical pump is the primary pump. The electrical pump was integrated in to deal with issues associated with the flat top carburetors.

I don't think I would look that good in that T-shirt. Does it come in 2XL?

It's probably the same. I have a couple of sets of the Blackdragon squeeges waiting for me to get around to installing them. They look fine to me.

Relay A is energized by a wire between the alternator and regulator. When the engine is running, the alternator is turning, and the coil is powered. When the contacts for Relay A closed, Relay B's coil is energized. If someone removed the harness that energized Relay A, Relay B will never get power on the coil. This might be the case if someone converted the alternator to an internally regulated unit and removed the voltage regulator. After that conversion, Relay A will always be energized unless the harness for Relay A is removed. That will run down the battery. Been there. Done that. Got the t-shirt.

Even cheaper and should work with incandescents: http://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-BP-232-RP-Heavy-Duty-Electronic/dp/B009WQP4MW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1410317735&sr=8-2&keywords=bussman+232

This is what I'm using (See post #51.) http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/electrical-s30/40600-sold-leds.html#post406757 To clarify, I'm using the EP34. You have to run a ground wire for it to work, though. That's no big deal.

That movie was during the 60s, too.

Now that I thought about it for a moment, it was quite possible that an idiot mechanic jumpered wires between the front and rear at the turn signal switch. Read this on repairing the turn signal switch: Turn Signal Repair | Fiddling With Z Cars

I wonder where that came from. It looks like a 280Z, but the series stopped airing first-run shows in 68.

It's a thermal relay. It can get hot. If you don't like that, go with an electronic relay.

No, it is not normal. Hazard Switch ? Brake Light ? Turn Signal Circuit Analysis | Fiddling With Z Cars

Tell me what wires go to what pins, and I can probably tell you what the pins are.

There is an intermittent connection, possibly a crack in a trace. As the radio heats up from being on, it expands enough to make contact. As it cools, it contracts, and the contact is broken.

Here are a couple of more pictures of it that are in my archives.

I know the owner. He was at Caffeine & Octane yesterday. He said that not only is the engine lighter, the transmission is much lighter than the Z transmission due to the aluminum bell housing.

I think there are some pictures of this beast floating around on the Georgia Datsun Lovers group on Facebook, as well. I met Matt Isbell at The Mitty in 2011. I saw a racing trailer in the infield with a Datsun flag, so I had to wander over to see what was up. He sometimes shows up to Caffeine & Octane, too. I can't remember if he brought this Datsun to C&O. If he did, it's probably in my photo archives somewhere. He does own some wild machinery.

It was Caffeine & Octane day in Atlanta, too. We're a little better organized through Facebook and the Georgia Z Club, so we had about 14 S30s and 3 S130s today. Here's a link to the full picture set: Caffeine and Octane ? September 2014 Edition (173 photos) | Steve's CARtography After that I drove the Z over to someone's house to help him with his 280ZX. After confirming it was a fuel pump issue, we got a new pump, he installed it, and the car roared back to life.

Do you get the feeling that the person who posted the ad may have trust issues?

I finished up the air dam install and early front bumper on the 260Z. Old New I really enjoyed the project because it tested my fabrication skills. You can read the details here: https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/260z-air-dam-and-front-bumper/

Only if you're worried about staying 100% stock. Frankly I prefer being able to see my instruments clearly at night and not melting down the fusebox/wiring.

As Jim said, it should be M8x1.25. I bought a shift knob on ebay from datsun_bluebird. It was an M10 thread in the knob. I drilled out the thread and used a threaded insert to get M8 threads.

Doubtful, Captain. When the key is in the START position, the Green/White wire gets 12 VDC and doesn't go through the resistor. It goes through the tach and comes out Black/White, going on to the coil. In the ON position, a Black/White wire carries 12 VDC to the ballast resistor and comes out as the Green/White wire described above. Unless someone monkeyed around in the dash harness, the G/W wire should be connected one of the terminals energized when the key is in the START position.

While it's cranking, see if you're getting 12VDC to ground at the positive terminal of the coil. Most likely, you're having issues with the switch on the back on the ignition key.

Meh. I drove the 74 to the convention in Savannah in 2011. Just get up early in the morning to get to the hotel at check-in time. Then shower off the sweat. In the interests of full disclosure, She Who Must Be Obeyed drove her car separately to enjoy the benefits of air conditioning.