SteveJ

I still have to wonder how I got a 9 LED bulb to fit in mine. There must have been some different supplier of lenses.

If you want to learn about electrical, I can help.

The brake lights do not go through the fusible link. The headlights do.

Yes, it would. I live in NE Forsyth near 306 & 53. Send me a PM if you need help.

Actually you need to link the image because Google will have different results for different people.

Again, does the fuse blow as soon as you put it in, or does it blow when you put the turn signal on left turn, right turn, or either? This is an important question to help you narrow down where the short may be. The Chiltons manual is almost no use to you, especially for an electrical problem. As I said before

It is rather difficult to read your question. If you have an issue with the fuse blowing when you try to use your turn signals, you have a short to ground. First look at the sockets for the light bulbs in the circuit. Excessive corrosion can cause this problem. How long has the car had this problem? If it developed the problem since you had the car, consider any wiring modifications you have made. Also look for any wires that have been pinched, rubbed, etc. If the fuse blows as soon as you put it in, the problem exists between the fuse box and the turn signal switch. You can also find a wiring diagram with the FSM at XenonS130 - S130 Reference. If you are using a smartphone to post to this forum, please consider switching to a computer. The lack of punctuation and capitalization makes it very difficult to understand the problem with your car.

Okay people. I know I'm not the only one working on his/her Z. Anyway, I finally installed the Group Harrington bumper on the 240Z. If you want to read about it, here is the link: Installing the Front Bumper | Fiddling With Z Cars Now what have the rest of you been up to?

I used the 73's mounts IIRC when I did mine.

Not too much, but then again, I moved to a less populated area about 7 years ago.

I didn't notice any problems when mounting the Harrington rear bumper to my 240Z. As for other people selling them, go to Datsun 240Z, 260Z, 280Z, 280ZX and Mazda RX7 Auto Parts & Accessories. They are US $350 for front and $350 for rear.

Amazon.com: usb socket: Automotive

My first guess is that some rubber component somewhere is deteriorating.

The build date should be on the plate on the driver's side door jamb.

Interesting, I've never heard of that configuration. Go to the 73 FSM and get the gap & dwell settings out of the EE section. Factory gap is 0.45 to 0.55 mm Dwell is 35 to 41 degrees (manual) or 33 to 39 degrees (auto) You'll need a tach/dwell meter to adjust the points properly in addition to feeler gauges. Here is the one I have Actron CP7605 Dwell/Tachometer/Voltmeter Analyzer : Amazon.com : Automotive By the way, could you post a picture of the passenger kick panel area? I'm curious what it looks like. Also, what is the build date of your car?

What car are you trying to set the points on? Your profile says you have a 260Z. That car didn't have points in a stock configuration.

After some high profile cases in the US where people where tracked down for nefarious purposes via DMV information, Joe Average Citizen can't get that info easily. Also, if the car was moved around to different states, it would make tracking it more difficult. If it was a 17 digit VIN, CarFax could probably have provided some information, but this car is far too old for that.

The interesting thing for me is that while my wife gets a little miffed at the parts purchases, she usually approves of the results when she sees the new parts on the cars.

Actually the combo switch on his car does control the connection from between the WR & R wires, so it does switch the power. The dimmer switch completes the ground.

I'll describe the circuit in detail. There is a WR wire going to the headlight switch (12VDC+). When the switch is on, power comes out a R wire and goes to the fuse box. There is splits between the two headlights, coming out R (right) and RY (left). The R & RY wires go to their respective headlights. There are RB (low) and RW (high) wires coming out of the headlights. Those wires go back to the dimmer switch. The switch connects RB to ground in one position for low beams, and it connects RW to ground for high beams. Be careful about running random wires to components. You'll be replacing a lot more wiring, especially if you bypass a fuse and burn up the wiring. Even worse, you could cause an electrical fire and lose the car or possibly the garage/house.

I got the splash pan from the 260Z blasted and coated. The place turned it around in one day for me. I lucked out in that they were coating a bunch of other things flat black, so they added the splash pan into the mix. For the Atlanta area people, this is the place I went to: Professional Cryogenic Metallurgy & Coatings,Atlanta,Georgia,Cryogenic,REM Gears,powder coating,ceramic coating,sandblasting,metal polishing Pete Thomas recommended them to me, and I can see why.

I'll let you know. I just bought a set.

Okay, I did manage to take a picture today.

That reminded me of the thread last year about the guy who claimed he bought out the parts from a Nissan dealership. People were shooting all sorts of parts requests to him. Did those requests ever pan out?

Photos will be coming. I was tired when it was done, and I wanted to get warm.