SteveJ

Nice cherry-picking there.

But I have tested it, just not in an accident.

Inertia switch: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RBK4873 The only catch is that you have to re-pin the switch because they put it on normally open contacts. It's relatively easy to change.

@Yarb For your project, I would advise doing it differently. You'll want a different connector and an inertia switch, too. I'll send you a PM when I get home and can get all of the part numbers/sources.

You could install one without too much trouble. Just intercept the fuel pump wire here. That connector is on the driver's side under the dash. The green/blue is the fuel pump positive. Here are the parts I suggest: 14 gauge wire (green would be good. 2 of these connectors: http://www.vintageconnections.com/Products/Detail/78 You only need 1, but you may need an extra male terminal. A switch. I would go with a 20A switch like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BGX6Z3Y1 Back the terminal for the green/blue out of the 6 pin connector with a small jeweler's screwdriver. Put that terminal in one of the connectors you bought. Assemble the switch in this order: female connector - wire - switch - wire - male terminal into the 6 pin connector where the green/blue wire was. When the switch is on, the fuel pump has power. When the switch is off, you killed fuel pump power.

I got everything cleared away from around the Z, so I could take it on a test drive. I have the trans filled with AC-Delco Friction Modified Synchromesh Transmission Fluid. It is pretty quiet, especially to the old one with worn out bearings. I need to drive the 240Z to compare the two since they both have 720 pick-up 5 speeds now. Anyway, there were no issues rowing through the gears. Happy camper status has resumed. Oh, and I also fixed the exhaust leak by using all three bolts and a gasket between the header and exhaust.

So here are some target areas: Missing grommets for the fuel tank vent lines Missing grommets from the wiring harness to the fuel pump/fuel sending unit Missing bolt that goes through the body (with a change to aftermarket seatbelts Bad/missing grommet for the throttle Bad/missing grommets around the heater hoses or wiring harness in the engine bay

Through a leak you haven't found. It might show up more with the other leaks sealed.

I think Chet knows him.

Friday I reinstalled the driveshaft and installed the tail end of the exhaust. I left the front end of the exhaust loose because the transmission mount insulator was mostly dead, and a new one was due to arrive today. I installed a new speedometer cable on the pinion and filled the transmission with oil. Today I installed the starter and installed the insulator. The car is touching the ground again, and I got the interior back together. Tomorrow I'll finish the installation of the speedometer cable and hook up the battery. There are also a lot of tools waiting to be put back in their homes.

Great. It's fortunate that we have a forum like this to share our experiences.

Also, I think your revised logic for the voltmeter is a better way to go. As for reusing connectors, that's what I plan to do in the future. I have a 73 engine harness that isn't in great condition, but the colored connectors are good.

Make sure the kill switch is rated for at least 40A DC. You don't want to burn it up and catch anything on fire or kill the car while you're driving. By the way, I bought these crimpers recently: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0978S514B I haven't tried them, but they should be able to crimp the open barrel terminals with one shot as opposed to having to hit the terminal twice.

I can't find the more recent threads on adjusting the fuel gauge. I haven't done it myself. If I can find the time, I'll track down my spare gauge and see what I can set up to demonstrate.

The ammeter is probably not inaccurate. You probably put the new loads on the battery side of the ammeter. That means in order for the alternator to provide power to the EFI, the current has to flow through the ammeter. Did you check the resistance of both sending units? It may be a difference in resistance between the two that is affecting the fuel gauge. As for putting a 260Z AMP/FUEL gauge in the car. NO! DON'T! FORGET YOU EVER HAD THE IDEA! The 260Z is wired completely different from the 240Z for how this gauge works. For better or WORSE, all of the current flowing from the alternator to the battery in a 240Z goes through the dash, and the terminals on the ammeter don't have boots. (At least that I have seen.) The 260Z is measuring the current through a shunt. (Good luck finding that shunt, to install in your 240Z, too.) To wire the car to handle the 260Z ammeter is likely more hassle than it's worth. As for the fuel gauge, the sender for a 260Z is the same as a 240Z, and the gauge is the same. The correct answer to your question is to move the power source for your EFI away from the battery side of the ammeter and try again to adjust the fuel gauge.

I forgot to mention that I didn't look over the new transmission too carefully when I picked it up. I realized today that it's a 720 box. Since I already have that one in the 240Z, it is fine by me. When I moved the old transmission around, it sounded like a pachinko machine with the bearings bouncing around. I might check the oil to see if any made it out the drain hole.

Some info that may help you: http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=L4N71B_Swap

Do you have the torque converter to go with the 4N71 transmission? Otherwise the OD gear won't work right. Also, there are two versions. L4N71B has a regular torque converter, and the E4N71B has an electronic torque converter. I'm not sure which one came on the Maxima, but the E4N71B version should have some wiring to make it work. A little more searching suggests that if it's a Maxima transmission, it's the L4N71B.

He also lifted the new transmission (a 720 box, not a 280Z box) into place, and we worked well together to get it bolted in. We verified the clutch engages and will disengage. Next Saturday, I'll put all of the parts back in...and fill the transmission.

I didn't take any photos of pressing it in, but the Maddox kit had the right adapter for me to set it up and tap it a couple of times with a mallet to drive the collar into the TO bearing. It was nice having someone with experience come over and supervise.

As I'm a complete novice to most of the transmission topics, this was a neat learning opportunity for me. I needed to separate the TO bearing and collar for installation of the new transmission. After consulting with a couple of friends, I decided to try the Maddox Ball Joint Service Kit I bought from HF. I found it had the right size collar for the TO bearing, and then I found a 27mm socket would drive out the collar. Here's the assembly ready for pressing. It worked for the most part, but the bottom plate kept the assembly from driving the collar all of the way out. I could try using my vice to finish the job, or I could get medieval. It worked.

I wonder if a radiator repair shop could fix that crack?

Maybe they needed something else to maintain pliability. This calls for a Google search...that didn't reveal anything. Have you considered treating with petroleum jelly or glycerin after the wintergreen oil has done its job?

I'm happy I could help. I love keeping these cars on the road (or track) where they belong.

I pulled the 260Z transmission today. Here's the drain plug. That piece of metal lying on the floor was also attached. I also took a picture after I cleaned it. The oil coming out of the transmission was very pretty, all full of glitter. 😲 Soon I had everything else clear, so I was ready to drop the transmission. All I had to do was pull one bell housing and two transmission bolts. After I finally got the transmission clear of the engine and header, I lowered the transmission jack, and the transmission promptly rolled off the jack. I dragged it out to prepare to install the replacement.