SteveJ

Are you referring to this? Early Hazard Switch | Fiddling With Z Cars or Hazard Switch ? Brake Light ? Turn Signal Circuit Analysis | Fiddling With Z Cars I see the guy who did these pretty often. Refurbishing the switch isn't rocket surgery. You just tend to break off the tabs off the switch cover. The FSM does not have a connector listed like you describe, though it could have been an omission. Can you post some pictures? Also, you may want to edit your signature to indicate you have a North American model. That will help in identifying some of the correct nuances of your car.

Look at the 72 FSM instead. On EE-2 it shows the connectors for non-North American cars. The only green wires I could identify in the FSM for non-North American cars were power for the fuel pump, power for the turn signals, and power for an electric fan in the engine bay. I guess this begs the question. Do you have a right-hand drive Z? If so, hopefully someone like Alan, who is more familiar with non-North American cars than I am, will speak up.

I stand corrected. That's what I get from looking at only the wiring diagram which makes it look like the starter relay was a normally open contact. EF-7 does show it's normally closed.

However, if you connect the wires at the emergency switch as I described in post 19, you NEVER have to worry about the seatbelt interlock relay failing. Not entirely accurate. The fuel pump relay is energized while starting.

Thanks for the link, Steve. I just met someone at the Georgia Z Club meeting who may need to replace the ignition box in his 260Z. I was going to look at adapting the HEI to drop in.

Ah, but it is a computer. It's an analog computer. Analog computer - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

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I talked to Eddie Radatz. He says he has one. You can find his contact info at Z Parts Warehouse

Seems high to me, but I haven't been pricing them.

They were not OEM on the 74, but lots of people swapped them in because of vapor lock issues. That said, there are a few of us who have no problems with the flat tops. Get a 72 FSM and start looking through the EF section to see how to tear it down. For reference, it looks like you have 3-screw roundtops. You may want to wander over to the Ztherapy site and get their Just SUs video.

Per the link I posted, yes. Also, here: Black Dragon Automotive - Parts & Accessories for Datsun 240Z, 260Z, 280Z, 280ZX & Mazda RX7

No, I was just curious. I'm only allowed two project cars, so I'm not trying to get any more. It isn't Lee's car, is it?

Where are you picking up the 240Z from?

A coil designed for a ballast resistor should be in the .5 to .9 Ohm range. The coil Chris has is designed to operate without a ballast resistor, aka a 3 Ohm coil.

Here are a couple of sources for items like power resistors and transisitors: DigiKey Electronics - Electronic Components Distributor Mouser Electronics - Electronic Components Distributor

The VIN for a 79 US 280ZX does not have an L in it. Do not confuse the model information with the VIN.

Flat tops or round tops?

Unless you can get DMV records, you can't trace much. From the VIN, I would say it's probably a 79 with a turbo swap. The build date might be late 78. What are you concerned about that you want to track down its history? As for your 70, considering the nature of the steel used and the fact it lived it Maine and Colorado (salt country), I wouldn't be surprised if it was melted down for scrap a long time ago. Unless it's in one of the online registries, I'm not sure how you would track it down if it is still alive.

HGS130 = 280ZX 2+2. This sequence was used until Feb 81 according to the link I attached. From the rest of the number, I would guess 1979. Post a picture of the car. VIN information

Actually I was just helping someone the other day with his injectors on his 77, and his final issue was that the tach wasn't grounded properly.

Well, there's no time like the present to learn how to use a multimeter. Here's some info to get you started: Some Electrical Basics and Troubleshooting | Fiddling With Z Cars. Once you buy a multimeter and learn how to do resistance measurements, we can go through how to use it to diagnose your problem.

Just to clarify something. It's not an increase in resistance. It's a decrease in resistance. P=V2/R As resistance increases, power decreases. Less power means less heat. Corrosion at the light sockets gives the current an alternate path to the filament as the corrosion breaches the gap between positive and negative. Multiple paths means more current can flow since P=VxI. Corrosion at the connections causes a different problem. When the interface between to electrical devices gets corroded, the path for electrons to flow gets narrowed. This causes a localized heat buildup. If it happens at a switch, it can melt the solder. For cleaning, use something like Caig Deoxit. On rusted contact surfaces, use sandpaper of around 800 grit. You don't want the metal pitted since that reduces the contact area. P - Power V - Voltage I - Current R - Resistance

That doesn't help. You're crossing circuits by doing that. "1 dot" Type 1156 bulb "2 dot" Type 1157 bulb aka dual filament Don't cross the streams. I think you should learn to use a multimeter and check the resistance in the circuit. You could have a short in circuit. Rule that out first. If you look on my blog, I have a post about electrical troubleshooting, including a link to a video on how to use a multimeter.

Thank you. Now we just need someone to be as picture happy at the West Coast Nationals. Yes, I did get the headlights from Black Dragon. I'm pretty happy with them, too.

Pictures are up from Day 2 of the 2013 Mitty: The Mitty 2013 - Day 2 | Steve's CARtography