SteveJ

Yep, one or more of the circuits going back to the switch is probably grounded.

By the way, check the coolant and oil. If either appear tan to brown, PARK IT IMMEDIATELY! I hope one of the contacts I provided can help you out.

Yikes! Does the white smoke smell sweet? It could be a blown head gasket. I'll PM you contacts for a couple of Florida Z clubs. Maybe one of them can help you find someone.

Look at this thread for some ideas: https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/108060-electric-fans/

What exactly do you need measured? I have an evaporator sitting in my garage. Do you have any typical fittings you could send me to test fit for you?

Frankly I didn't even notice that your compressor is a DeVilbiss. I just happened to notice the standards mentioned in the question. That's true blind squirrel action on my part.

Yes, I've had those snap. No, it wasn't fun with the removal even if a friend helped me with it. No, we didn't have to drill into the head to remove the bolts, but he did have to spend a couple of hours with mapp gas to get them loose. Having said that, I would suggest trying an induction heater on those bolts. The neat thing is that you can buy a free-form coil that you can wrap around the T-stat housing near the head to heat the bolts closer to the head. This will put the head into the bolts close enough to the head to get the desired effect. Here's the induction heater I bought: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08PD8ZSXZ Here are the free-form coils I bought: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B084TCX7NG While the price of entry may seem high, there's a pretty substantial chance this can save you from spending a couple of hours trying to remove broken bolts. If you want to see one of these induction heaters at work, look at my YouTube channel. I give a demonstration. I also used this on a 280Z rear axle nut that a friend couldn't remove with a 2 foot breaker bar. I applied the heater for about 2 minutes, and I broke it loose without breaking a sweat.

I looked at the Q&A on the oil Garrett used.

If you are talking about the knobs, this is what I used to remove them in the video: https://www.harborfreight.com/nylon-pry-bar-installer-kit-4-piece-63594.html

Are you asking how to remove the knobs from the rheostat & trip reset? Or are you asking how to remove the brackets from the dash frame?

Are you still using stock wheels?

In addition to the link @26th-Z posted, here is what Z Car Depot offers: https://zcardepot.com/collections/featured-products/products/wiper-blade-arm-wire-metal-original-style-240z-260z-280z-70-76?_pos=1&_sid=c318e6548&_ss=r

Are you sure you bought the 240Z springs? Are you accounting for sag in the old springs?

Include the year of your car with your post to get accurate answers.

Working for Blanchard?

I was shocked to see the more recent photos of Cody. I hadn't seen him since 2018.

Make sure you have rebuild kits on hand. You need to replace gaskets and crush washers. Attach the lid to the float bowl before you try to remove the bolt holding the banjo fitting in place. Here's the filter: https://zcardepot.com/products/copy-of-fuel-filter-carburetor-oem-240z-260z-70-74?_pos=17&_sid=da1c07df2&_ss=r

Yep, it's not good when those are nasty. Don't forget about the last chance filters on the banjo fittings.

You may want to look for Aisin water pumps. I saw some on ebay and CardID The issue might be whether or not you need a pump with a fan clutch. Those are rare. I just noticed that the Aisin is available via Rockauto but I had to click a button to unhide it.

The rule of thumb is 10 PSI/1000 RPM. Full scale is to 90 your car, so 10 PSI isn't that far up the scale.

I'm pretty sure it was on there when I bought the car 30 years ago. It seems to work fine.

Lord knows how long this sender has been on this car...

That was a cigarette lighter USB power adapter. You can find those on Amazon all day long. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M9IKYVH It's just measuring the voltage at the cigarette lighter. That should be the same voltage as the battery/alternator. It has no interaction with the ammeter. The only caveat about that modification is that it will affect the stock wiring for the fuel pump since you will not have a neutral wire from the alternator. If you have rewired the fuel pump circuit, then it's no problem. When I did the fuel injection on my 260Z, I no longer controlled the fuel pump with the neutral from the alternator, so it was a no-brainer for me.

https://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/electrical/electric-unit-switch/section-1/240z-260z Part 34 https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-ol-pres-gaug~25070-89901.html