SteveJ

The Nissan part number looks to be 27984-B0700. You could always call Courtesy to see if they can look it up. (Of course, your local Nissan dealer might be willing to look it up, too.)

Well, after I got back from the car show, I removed the valve cover & spark plugs. I put oil in each cylinder & all over the cam. I put back on the valve cover and went to turn over the engine with the starter, only to find that I forgot to keep the trickle charger plugged in. Whoops, dead battery. The voltage was too low to use the bigger charger, so I put on the trickle charger for a few minutes. After I got the battery up to 10 volts, I switched over to the big charger to recharge the battery. After a couple of hours charging, I used the starter to turn over the motor. I then put in the plugs and attached the wires. I sprayed in some starting fluid and cranked the engine. It fired but soon died. That wasn't too surprising for two years sitting dormant. I used a little more starting fluid and got the car started again, only to die again quickly. Only this time I saw it has spit out some gas. I then coaxed She Who Must Be Obeyed (SWMBO) to crank the engine while I watched. I saw the gas spitting out and pulled the float vent tubes from the air cleaner & plugged them with my fingers. SWMBO cranked the engine again. It sputtered and spit like crazy. SWMBO turned off the car and went back inside. She was done with the smell of gasoline for the day. I moved the plunger up and down in the back carb, but I couldn't get it to move much on the front. Heck with that. I pulled the dome off and moved the piston up and down. Then I put the dome back on. I reattached the vent tubes, crossed my fingers and tried again. The engine cranked, fired and ran! Woo hoo! Success! I yelled, "It's alive! It's alive!" (Young Frankenstein reference) Now I can go to setting the timing and taking care of the myriad of issues that need to be addressed before putting her back on the road. (The 73, not SWMBO) What's more expensive than fixing up a Z car? Fixing up more than one Z car.

I finally installed the 280ZX distributor in my 73. I'll test it tomorrow after Caffeine & Octane.

Denny, there are two ways to find out. You can buy the parts fiche CD from this site, thereby supporting this site financially, or you can go to carpartsmanual.com and find the correct part number for your car.

If it is a plastic glove box, you still take off the front door, but I wouldn't advise folding it or collapsing it.

It depends upon what year Z you are talking about. Edit your signature and add your car to it. That will result in better & more timely responses.

Quite well IMHO.

Yes & yes.

Years for the Kia are in this thread: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?37308-Kia-Sportage-weatherstip-rocks!. I think the 4 door version will work. I bought the 2 door and had excess to trim. I found a Kia dealership online and ordered from them.

How are your fusible links? Take them out and do continuity tests on them. Look for corrosion around the connectors. Also inspect the wiring harness in the steering column where it connects to your ignition switch. Look for signs of heat damage/corrosion. Consider buying a small IR thermometer to check the temperature of components: ignition swith, ignition module, etc., to find sources of overheating components.

If you have a mechanical fuel pump, the diaphragm can leak, letting gas into the oil. Remove the pump and inspect it. Be sure to replace the gasket if the pump is in good shape.

Welcome, Emily. If you have the chance, stop by a Georgia Z Club meeting to meet some fellow enthusiasts. Also, upcoming local events that you might be interested in are the Caffeine & Octane shows in Alpharetta and The Mitty at Road Atlanta. Caffeine and Octane happens on the first Sunday of the month, early in the morning. The next one is on April 1. The next Georgia Z Club meeting is April 5. The Mitty is at the end of April this year. A few of us from the Georgia Z Club usually attend.

Happy to be of service.

That fits with what I have read in some posts about the sag at the door hinges. I like the elegance of the solution, too.

Yeah, I've had to diagnose the battery with the dead cell before. That's always fun...

You should use a multimeter to verify your voltage readings. Your engine turns over with the key in the ACC position? By the way, the accessory relay does not receive power in the START position. This is yet another excellent reason to undo your wiring hacks before trying to diagnose your problems. (FYI, the other excellent reason to undo your hacks is that depending upon how you hacked the wiring, your fuel pump will probably still be pumping fuel after an accident.) What repairs & electrical work? How are you measuring 15 VDC? Under what engine speeds? Here is what I suggest: Make a timeline of the issues with your car and the work you have done on it. Don't spare the details. Organize your thoughts. You'll get better suggestions. As I said before, the FIRST thing you should do is repair your hacks. You might have one problem, or you might have several. It's difficult to tell at this point. I have some suspicions, but I'll wait until you have the chance to provide a clear timeline.

Open source: 7zip Still free.

The roof and hatch would fit from a 77 280Z as long as it's not a 2+2.

Also, only sheetmetal from the cowl foward will swap from a 2+2 to a 240Z.

From his profile, it looks like Tim might have a 71. I know another member here is restoring a 71 that has holes in the rear deck for 6x9s cut by a PO.

The AT section in my 73 FSM is the same length as the one at the link you posted. It could have been downloaded from XenonS30 for free.

That would relate to your accessory relay coil being de-energized when you turn the key to the OFF position. Unless someone hacked into the wiring, no, the fuel pump isn't on the accessory relay. The fuel pump being off when the car is off is a good thing, too. Did you test the fusible links out of the car for continuity? How did you test the battery connections? How do you tell if a wire is on the verge of dying? Does it have a cough? Check this with a multimeter. Put the leads on the battery. If the voltage drops to zero when you put a load on it, the battery could be going bad. How old is it? If the electrical system is running at 8 volts, don't run the car. You'll damage your ECU. Get your battery tested. You just said your fusible links were good. No it isn't. Get a good multimeter. Check your battery voltage as I described above. If it fails, replace your battery. Your fuel pump relay is NOT controlled by the accessory relay.

The circuits for the left and right side are isolated in the switch. IIRC the 12VDC+ splits at the switch. Look in that area. Also, look at the wiring diagram carefully. I think there is a link to a colorized version of the wiring diagram in Blue's tech tips (link below). With the high beams, the first thing to do is to check continuity through the high/low beam switch. If it is not working properly, consider contacting Dave Irwin (aka Zs-Ondabrain) about cleaning/repair.

Jamie You've probably already cleaned the latch assembly. I cleaned mine a couple of years ago and sprayed them with white spray grease. They work almost like as they did from the factory.

You can also contact Moderator Mike about buying a CD copy of the microfiche that is searchable.