SteveJ

I left in one spacer so that I could get the nuts/wrench over the bolt. I may just have to take out those spacers. I guess every millimeter counts.

Make that 6 foot or over. I have to lean my seat back to keep my head from rubbing the headliner.

Does Black Gold need any more commentary than that?

Look at Vintage Connections.

I don't think you'll will get many (if any) serious answers to your question. Forums like this don't have much tolerance for people looking for spoonfeeding. You might want to try searching on Google and reading through various forums. Figure out what you can and take note of what you don't understand and where you think there are information gaps. After you have done enough research to pose questions that don't require spoonfeeding, you'll get answers that are much more informative.

RockAuto has plenty of choices for the HEI modules, too.

Recovering the seats isn't very difficult. Just take pictures as you're taking apart the old covers. I found that a dremel tool with a cut-off wheel was helpful for removing the hog rings. I also used slip-joint pliers on the new hog rings.

Sometimes it's easier to use Google. I got this link by searching on HEI 280Z. You'll need to be logged in to see the pictures in the writeup.

The OP has a 280ZX 2+2. The FSM at XenonS130.com might shed some light.

Try looking at zdriver.com. I think there is a writeup over there.

I read it wrong. I need to compare it to the 280Z wiring diagrams.

No. The relay coil on the right is always energized.

Be sure to check at the connector for your combo switch & at your fuse box for damage. Those are a couple of places in the circuit where meltdowns occur.

My brother helped me with replacing the rear hatch weatherstripping and door jamb switches in the 260Z. Oh, by the way, if you EVER decide to get an LED bulb for the dome light polarity is VERY important. I had my brother test the light while I worked on cleaning out the old weatherstripping. He said that it had voltage, but the light still didn't work. I had him pull the dome light from the 73 and test it in the 260Z. It lit up. He thought it was a bad switch in the dome light. I didn't think so because it was a new dome light. It was at that point in time that the cluebird of happiness came to roost upon my shoulder. I tested the bulb with a couple of lantern batteries. Sure enough, the polarity was critical. (Festoon bulbs aren't inherently obvious about polarity, especially to two men who can't see much of anything up close.) After marking the negative side with a paint pen, I gave the bulb back to my brother, and we had the dome light working again.

Some 72s did have the vertical defroster grid. Your supposition is most likely correct.

Quite possibly they are related. You'll need a copy of the FSM (see link in my signature) and a multimeter to diagnose. Pages BE-12 & BE-13 show the circuits. Also, double check all of the connectors to see if they are loose or if you have a damaged wire. Has this happened recently or has it been this way since you've had the car? If it was recent, did you do any work on the car shortly prior to the problem?

To elaborate on the "extra" pin, that relay has what is known as form C contacts. If you do any research on electrical circuits, you will see the 87a pin referred to as a normally closed contact (closed when there is no power on the coil). The 87 pin is the normally open contact (closed only when there is the power to the coil). The 30 pin is the wiper. The 86 pin is the positive for your coil. The 85 pin is negative for your coil. (Some relays have diodes, and that is why it's important to connect 86 to positive.) If you use a pre-wired base, be sure to remove the wire for the 87a pin from the base. That will prevent you from shorting out anything.

It's a closed trailer, but it's also $24K.

The worst case scenario is that you'll get a follow-up message from them a couple of days later saying it's not available.

I wasn't able to find one with a quick search, but you might look at motorcycle parts as a potential source. Edit: Upon further review, changing my search to headlight rubber uncovered this item on eBay. It's a Datsun part, too. Try searching for the part number and see if Courtesy or NissanPartsCC might have it.

Search for stuck drum here. There are plenty of threads on the subject.

It's not bad if you get a full face cover, and it's a lot cheaper than a new dash.

You could try graphite powder.

Pete, Rebuild it or not, if you're going to do it in your garage, don't forget that I have a crane.

Another way to do this is to jack up the suspension on the wheel you are working on while the car is on jack stands. IIRC, that is how I did it about 14 years ago.