SteveJ

Why don't you download it from the link in Post #7?

The build date should be on the VIN plate in the driver's side door jamb.

As you try to figure out whether or not parts will work, look at the link in my signature for the Datsun Parts Manual. It can help you get a quick answer on parts compatibility.

Arne, the OP added a signature with the model year after my reply.

The female side of the connector should be part of the body wiring harness. The colors of the wires going into that connector will give you a clue about the colors of the wires on the other side. Let's assume you have a 72 or 73. (It helps to make sure you post the year of your car in your query or put it in your signature.) Since I don't have time to go down to my car, I'm going to guess that the wire colors are Red, Red/Blue, Black, and Green. It's likely that's the connector for the warning lights. It would normally be identified on page BE-3 of the 73 FSM, but for some reason it did not get broken out like the rest of the connectors.

While those two circuits are controlled by the same switch, they are almost completely electrically isolated from each other. Did you look through other posts here and try those suggestions? Have you looked at the factory service manual? The circuits are drawn well in the Body Electrical section. Find a link to it below.

Since the problem is happening after it heats up and goes away when it cools down, the chances are that it's electrical. Take one of those cans of compressed gas. You know what I'm talking about. The ones you use to blow off dust from electronics, etc. When your car is warm and misfiring, hold the can upside down so the liquid comes out, and spray it on your ECU to cool it down. See if your misfire goes away. If not, try doing it to your coil & ignition modules. Also inspect connections to the igntion module and ECU for corrosion. Clean them and protect them with dielectric grease.

I assume you're talking about the 73. No, they are on completely different circuits. Look at the wiring diagram in the FSM. The White/Red wire (main power) branches off to a 20A fuse inline fuse. The other side of the fuse is a Blue wire. It goes through the accessory relay and come out as a Blue wire. That wire goes to the blower motor. The common thread is that the wires are in the dash. Remove the center console and the fan controls to look for damaged/hacked wires or disconnected wires. For whatever reason, the FSM doesn't have anything that I've been able to find to describe the blower motor aside from the wiring diagram. If you look at page BE-3, you'll see where the connections are for the lights. If your fusible link was gone, you'd have a lot more problems than the blower motor and warning lights.

Did you have voltage on one side of the switch?

Look through Blue's links for adjusting the valves.

Rob, Look up Vintage Connections. Del is a great guy to do business with. I've used plenty of his connectors in rehabilitating my 74.

You could also try Roger at ZBarn.

Rob, I think this thread might help you with the diagnostics on the turn signal. Look at the posts that were made in the last week in the thread.

You won't find many uncracked replacement dashes. Expect to pay North of $2G if you do find a good one. If you want to pay that price, search this site for "dash in a box". I think Eddie Radatz still has one. It won't be completely correct for a 73, but it will be close.

Read up on relays for the headlights. Between myself and Dave Irwin, you can find lots of information on the headlight circuit. As for the turn signal, check to see if it lights up with the hazard switch. That will give you some idea of where the problem is. Just follow the wiring diagrams in the FSM.

If you have it going clockwise, that could be your problem.

Unfortunately, that topic comes up fairly often. I was lucky that when my hood release cable broke, it was just after the latch released. I did a jury rig fix with some braided cable until I got another proper cable.

How about the firing order? Did you remember that it's counter clockwise? What is your static timing set to?

Back in 2008 I was checking out a 74 for sale that wouldn't run. I messed around with it a little bit and eventually found that the current from the coil erroded the plastic on the cap where the coil wires attaches. I got a new cap and new plugs and got the car running. I bought the car, too.

Check the connections of the wires on the cap and check the condition of the contacts in the cap and the rotor. For the latter two, you're interested in carbon build-up or wear. Did you ever check your fuel pressure? You could have multiple problems combining.

First, a suggestion: download the 1971 Chassis Supplement from XenonS30, unless you already have a copy of the 70 FSM. The wiring is close enough for me to piece things together. The blue wire is identitified in Fig VI-1 as the Blower Motor Power Source (#34). I assume the black wire is the ground, seeing that it has a ring lug on it. It probably mounts to the motor housing. It would help if you would identify the wire colors of all the wires on the connectors. That way they can be better matched to the descriptions in the supplement.

I bet surgery could fix the issue with the legs. It might even fix the issue with the head, but you'd have to put up with people pointing at you can calling you flathead.

1. Are you sure your front turn signals are flashing? 2. Are you sure the wiring is as stock? In the stock wiring, for the left turn signal, a White wire is the 12VDC+. The contacts connect that wire with a Green/Red wire (front left turn signal) and a White/Red wire (rear left turn signal). The Green/Red wire also goes to the bulb in the instrument panel. The right side has Green/Black (front) and White/Black (rear) The hazard lights use the same wires to go out to the lights. My guess is that your front signals may not be working. If that is the case, it's probably the wiring in the steering column.

Rock Auto pulled it right up.

Matt, look here. Actually, I would be kind of surprised if Les was interested in sourcing parts for the 73. It's almost as much of a redheaded step-child as the 260Z. Maybe that's why I have both.