SteveJ

Shhh, one must not mention the name of the FSM for fear of its wrath. Now you don't have to spoonfeed him. A little research is excellent for the brain. As for attaching pictures, Find the paperclip. It will allow you to manage attachments.

I believe he put the year in when he edited his post.

It is a tome of virtually boundless knowledge. It contains the collective wisdom of the creators. Possession of one is of upmost importance in the quest for a properly running Z car. Also, when all else fails, try acronym finder.

Just keep in mind that exempt applies to testing. You technically must have all required smog equipment on the car in functional order. You can also be subject to random roadside tests. If you don't have equipment or the emissions are too high, guess what? You'll be testing again, and again, and again.

Two suggestions: 1. Either create a signature with the year of your car or write the year of your car in your posts. That will get you better help. 2. Get a copy of the FSM and/or wiring diagram. Check the links to Blue's site and to Xenons. According to your profile you have a 72. I think someone posted a color wiring diagram within the last couple of months for a 72.

Use car dollys or get some used tires until you can put new tires on. That way the poor SOB replacing the tires won't have to deal with all sorts of crap when he unmounts the rotten tires currently on the car. The downside of the dollies is that you won't have brakes. Of course, you could compromise, putting dollies on one end and used or new tires on the other end. That way you would still have brakes on either the front or back.

One of the constraints would be to find enough bodies that were in good enough shape for the program that wouldn't cost an arm and a leg to procure. While the program was never designed to make money, reducing the available pool of cars would drive up the program costs significantly.

Brad, feel free to remove the chip from your shoulder. You asked some vague questions that require some clarification to give meaningful answers. The key to your cooling will be how much air you can get through the evaporator and out through the registers. Carl Beck posted his experiences getting adequate A/C in Florida. Search the word evaporator. Also, I got a lot out of the book "How to Air Condition Your Car". If you want to read that book, buy a used copy. Amazon lists it for $50 new. It's not worth that much. There is another A/C book for hot rods listed for about $20. That would be much more reasonable.

I'm not sure what you mean by a "factory" kit since there was never factory air for the 73. I'm not sure what you've read here, either, since there are threads that talk about what you're asking with regards to Vintage Air. As far as the Honda blower what questions do you have that haven't been answered in the long thread?

Did you notice that you commented on a thread that is almost 8 years old? Welcome, and I hope you're enjoying your vintage Z.

Play in the differential - Check U-joints. Check all of the bolts for the U-joints. If the play is inside, drain the oil and search for metal.

Did you have your emergency brake lever pulled up? If so, the shoes are stuck to the drum. Search for that to find solutions.

Another thing that makes me nervous about the listing is the zero feedback of the seller.

IMHO if the dealer wants to charge you an extra $1000 because he wants to do so, it isn't gouging, especially on a sports car. A sports car is a want and not a need. If you are willing to pay extra, then you can buy the car. If not, wait until it is used and make someone else pay the extra profit AND depreciation. Do you insist upon paying MSRP on a car, even when the dealer is willing to reduce the price? My guess is that you take the discount and walk away happy about the deal you got. That's why for most of the cars I have purchased new, I look for the slow selling cars. I'm more than happy to let the "I've got to get that car NOW!" crowd furnish the dealer with the extra profit. To get back on topic, I think the mats were well bought. Something tells me that it would be difficult to find a set of mats like those for $20.

Actually, depending upon the year, holes for the door lock stems won't line up. If you got the 77/78 door panels modification won't be easy.

Ed, Who is nhspeedometer? Where are they located? Do they have a website?

You could try contacting your local Z Car Club. One of the members might do appraisals. Be prepared to pay for a good quality appraisal. If you are too frugal (*cheap*) to pay, describe your car here, posts tons of pictures, and be prepared to get a wide range of values.

If you want to adjust your valves, look on Blue's tech tips for Kammy's procedure. I found it rather easy to follow.

IMHO more highways should be patrolled like this.

Download the FSM.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?38232-78-280z-heater-valve-needed!&highlight=heater+valve

If you hadn't posted your rant, I would have. To continue along with the rant... Yes, I bought second hand belts before I found sources for new seatbelts. Since then, I have replaced the seatbelts in both of my Z cars, and I'm glad I did. For those who are curious I have a couple of threads on replacement seat belts. I don't consider myself an expert, but I did have two really good experiences with the company I bought the belts from. Consider it this way. If you saw that your tires were cracking, would you just paint them black and keep driving? The S30 isn't nearly as rigid as any car built in the last 25 or so years. Do you REALLY want to risk your life with old seatbelts?

Yes, you'll need inline fuses. Fuse each power wire separately. A 10 AMP fuse will work for each circuit. I replaced the plug and the relay. Before you know it, it won't be much less than Dave's upgrade...

Yeah, I tried to warn you... For protecting the wires, I suggest 3 steps. 1. Heat shrink around the wires 2. Grommet at the hole (Find an any home improvement or auto parts place) 3. Liquid electrical tape applied liberally after getting it wired to seal between the heat shrink and the grommet.

That looks about pig rich to me.