SteveJ

I bought the BD relay kit. I replaced most of it before installing it. The relays are non standard. You should at least replace those with more typical relays and bases. (found on Amazon for pretty cheap) You'll also need to install your own fuses because the kit doesn't have any.

You found about as cheap as you're going to find them. They are also as rare as hen's teeth.

You should have no problems bleeding the brakes with the motor off.

I have to admit that my philosophy is to go cheap on the car stereo since it is exposed and vulnerable. I'm not such an audiophile that I have to have a top notch system in my car. Plus, it creates less of a worry that someone is going to break into my car, causing me to have to spend money to repair it.

Find the part numbers in the link below. There were threads on here about some being available in Canada about a year or two ago, but I doubt they are available here.

Don't forget the hose clips. They get old and rusty.

I like what Carl Beck wrote here and here.

Jalopnik is starting to get my respect... Scroll down to the third paragraph.

Subscribing to see if Greg is able to get the dimensions to post...

Are you talking about getting the kits and doing them yourself? That's about $30 or so for the two kits.

I don't think that Ztherapy will rebuild the flat top carburetors. They deal in the round tops, though Bruce could easily correct me on that point. I have a spare pair of flat tops that I plan on rebuilding. (Thank you 260 Z for your generous gift.) I figured it would be a great way to learn more about them. Rebuild kits are available.

Words of advice: Put the year and model of your car in your posts. Better yet, put them in your signature. You can find that under the UserCP menu. Take the center console off and look at the dimensions. Take pictures while you're at it. The more pertinent information you include in your posts, the better off you are. Are you familiar with car stereo terminology? Most car stereos are referred to as single DIN and double DIN. I'm not sure when that standardization came out, but of course, our Z cars were not designed with those types of stereos in mind. Many of us have modified the center console to fit single DIN stereos. I recently fitted my car with a single DIN stereo that only has AM/FM, but it comes with front AUX input, USB, and possibly even SD card. Since the music is still digital format, the sound quality is pretty much the same as a CD. You can re-record a thumb drive. It can hold much more music than a CD, and you don't have to worry about it melting inside your stereo on a hot day.

I'm voting on Urban Legend. I recall a story over at zcar.com of a guy tearing up his transmission when he towed the car, but that was because an idiot friend put the car into gear. As you said, the transmission does not pop into gear.

If the wheels get turned more than a couple of degrees, you'll get into trouble fast. Just lock the steering wheel? Those locks break. Keep the non-turning wheels on the ground or flatbed.

By the way, what I did was after removing the linkages from the motor, I blasted out the 30+ years of grease and grime with brake cleaner. After that I used the white spray grease. I was very pleased with the results when I was caught in the rain.

No, it's not backfiring and misfiring because of the emissions equipment. It's backfiring and misfiring because the car has not been maintained properly. For a good head start, read the FSM. Link is below. Go through the diagnostics and fix what is wrong.

I've seen plenty on eBay from Nissan dealers.

Did you at least try to clean and lubricate the linkage? It made a significant difference on my car.

It's part of the opinion. There are people who say old engines need more than what current oil contains. I haven't come across any studies, just anecdotes. Therefore, it comes across as opinion.

Look at the FSM or owner's manual. It will have the minimum specifications for oil. Newer specifications are supposed to be backward compatible. The main difference is the reduction in phosphorous, typically as ZDDP. Lots of people have opinions. Few people have facts.

Somewhat, and then only in America. It's not like a solid date that everything changed. Many interior parts (Such as door panels, dash and center console) were in common with the 75 280Z. Carburetors were shared with the 73 240Z. I don't have a detailed list, but if you REALLY want to know when different parts changed, look at all of the different pages in the microfiche link in my signature. Parts is parts. Some fit. Some don't.

Oh sure, I take too long to answer, and you figure it out yourself. :-P

Did you have both bulbs out when you checked voltage? If not, you're probably backfeeding through the circuit, especially if you've lost the ground. For your vintage car: The positive side of the circuit goes through fuses (right and left) an on to the headlight. There are two negative wires: one for high beams and the other for low beams. The high beam wires join together to go back to the turn signal switch, and the low beam wires do the same. At the turn signal switch (if your contacts are good) the switch will complete the circuit for either the high beam or low beam. The wire then goes over to the combo switch on the other side of the steering column. When you turn on the headlights, the circuit is completed to ground. You can trace the circuit with an ohmmeter to ensure you have low resistance to ground.

Let me know how the door panels are. It could be worth your while. Steve

Does it still have the water park? My senior class went there back in 83.