SteveJ

Considering I had a similar problem on the right rear of my 74, I vote #2. At least that's what Eddie Radatz suggested. He replaced the wheel cylinders for me, and I don't feel the brakes dragging any more.

It's easy...if you work with relays a lot. First here are the color codes I'll be using: L - Blue N - Brown R - Red W - White Y - Yellow You should have a plug that goes into the existing harness. The colors on mine are shown in the attachment. W runs to one relay, and N runs to the other. LW runs to both. For a typical automotive relay, you will run the LW to terminal 86. The N will go to terminal 85 on one relay and W will go to terminal 85 on the other relay. On one relay, run the RW wire to terminal 30 and L to terminal 87. On the other, run R to 30 and Y to 87. NOTE: if you use SPDT relays (They have an 87a terminal.), you need to reverse the wire colors for 30 and 87. You can get SPST relays on Amazon for $2 each. Sockets will cost about the same. If your wire colors don't match up to what I have, note the wire colors and post pictures. I will help you get the wire colors straight.

IMHO, it would be better to use a common socketed relay than replace the relay in the harness. I have one of those harnesses sitting in my garage, but I'm not installing it until I make that change.

Aww, man, you're missing out. Did you hear they had a turbo version of the ZX? While I've only owned a Z for 17 years, I never have driven in one later than that 81 turbo. It was a nice car, too. A friend of my dad owned that car, and he let me drive it to put air in the tires. He wouldn't even let his own kid drive it. But I digress. Anyway, yes, the 370Z is interesting to me, but I just can't see myself parting with the $$ to buy one.

If you had a short, you would most likely be blowing a fuse or melting a fusible link. It sounds more like you have an open circuit. At the same, you could have a a cross-connection in the circuit, either before or after the open circuit. Unfortunately, one of the challenges of diagnosing this circuit is that the same lights are fed from two sources. It can be difficult isolating the hazard flashers from the turn signals if you're not careful. That being said, let's go back to your original statement: It sounds like your GB wire has an open circuit, probably in the console harness or at the hazard light switch. the GB & GR wires from the hazard switch meet up with the rest of the lighting circuit in the dash harness. So we know the left side of the dash harness is probably good. Moving the wires in the steering column and getting positive results makes me suspect a loose wire. I forgot one other thing. The hazard switch interrupts the 12VDC+ going to the turn signals. Bad connections anywhere between the hazard switch and the turn signal switch can be related to your problem. Look for damage in the connectors and clean your turn signal switch and let us know if you find anything.

Thanks for calling our attention to the video, Carl. I finally had a chance to watch it tonight. It was quite the contrast from the episode of Automobiles on The History Channel 12 or 13 years ago.

Scopes are relatively cheap if you have a laptop computer to use with them. I picked up one for less than $200.

Did you look at Hybridz? I would be surprised if the topic wasn't covered there.

Very nice painting, Kats. I can see that you display it proudly. I was going over the thread again, glancing at Carl's attachments and then looking at the painting again. Carl has me convinced. I see the beautiful elegance in the curves in both posts. It certainly gives me a fresh perspective of the design.

Now I remember you mentioning the leaking. I didn't look at it closely enough to help figure out where the leak could originate. Do any Series I owners out there have insights on stopping leaks in the hatches with the vents? Yep, Jamie, the club meeting is tonight. I even drove the 260Z to work so I could drive it down to the meeting. If you're there, you can even see the seat belt install that we talked about before.

I think Dave's Google search captures what Jamie is looking for. Jamie, are you going to attempt to bring your car to the club meeting? You could show me what you're talking about if you are.

Yeah, I don't recall your name coming up, Doug. You better hurry, too. I was suggesting that he put it on eBay.

You're welcome, Gary. As soon as Eddie mentioned the dash in the box, I knew I had to post about it here. It's not like you come across those every day.

Yes, ratcheting crimpers are great to have.

I have plugged Vintage Connections in other threads. I just to have a thread so people might find it in a search. Del is a stand-up guy, and he has great products for anybody who is considering doing any electrical work on his/her classic Z. I went whole-hog a few months back and bought a bunch of connectors and lugs from Del. Tonight, I was driving my 260Z home from work and realized that I didn't have any running lights. OOPS! I can't say I hadn't been warned earlier in the day when I picked up the car from Eddie Radatz. (Yes, that was another shameless plug.) When I made it home, I took apart the steering column and replaced the 9 pin plug on the wiring harness. It's so much easier when you have the right parts for the job. The running lights are back to operational.

Three options 1 - Tear it apart & clean it yourself. 2 - Contact Dave Irwin (Zs-ondabrain) and send it off to him to tear apart and clean. 3 - Go to Rockauto.com and buy a new switch. It's less than $200.

It is for a 240Z. It would be great for someone restoring a Series 1 car.

*Sigh* Seventeen years ago, the guy at the Nissan parts counter told me that a new dash was still available for only $825 or so. Of course, back then, that was like $5,000 to me. Today I was picking up my car from Eddie Radatz's shop in Kennesaw. He's cleaning up his shop some and getting parts ready to sell. Well, he showed me a new dash, 68100-E8800, in the box. He said that a customer got it for a restoration many years ago, but the dash was slightly discolored. The customer arranged to return it to the Nissan dealer for another dash. The dealer couldn't return the dash to the regional warehouse, so it sat around for a while. Finally, the dealership was clearing out some stuff, and gave Eddie the dash. I told Eddie that he should put it on eBay, but he's not computer literate. If you're doing a restoration and need a dash, it could be worth your while to give him a call. Just look up Radatz Motorsports online if you want to contact him.

It sounds like the nefarious seatbelt interlock to me. I'll try to remember to look at my FSM when I get home tonight. Meanwhile, look at my links and go to XenonS30. You can download a copy of the FSM and try to verify yourself. If it is the interlock, search on here. I know I posted somewhere about how to bypass it.

There are instances where people swap out components due to lack of availability (wiper motors), better quality components (blower motors), better engineering applications (headlight relays), cost, or convenience. For the fusible links in the 280Z, I've read some posts from people talking about the block that holds the links have deteriorated, driving the desire to find an alternative. For the 240Z, I have more of a problem in figuring out a good reason to move away from the fusible link. After all, there is only one. Also, given a lack of documentation on the ACTUAL ampacity of the link when I researched this, I wouldn't be confident about replacing the link with a fuse.

In the 74 and later FSMs, the fusible link cross-sectional area for a black link is given as 1.25 mm^2. This translates roughly as 16 AWG. Matching the gauge should get the same fusible link rating. None of the fusible links pictured at the Courtesy site are for a 240Z. However, Banzai Motorworks and MSA both have a 240Z fusible link available. It's not a bad idea to have one or two links handy. They can and will corrode over the years. Heck, most of us carry spare fuses in the car. Why not carry an extra link? Anyway, for the purist, the Banzai & MSA links are probably the best. For others, the part store (Autozone, etc.) links can easily be modified. Just get the 16 AWG links. You'll just have to modify the end. Purchasing the link wire in bulk probably won't ever be cost effective. For people replacing links with maxi-fuses, are you still comfortable with the fuse ratings given what I have managed to dig up? Maybe when I have some extra spending money, I can set up a rig to get a better idea of blow curves on the link wire so maybe we can determine what would be a proper maxi-fuse substitute.

Interesting, the Narva link lists that guage wire as having a 24 Amp continuous rating.

The proper gauge fusible link is available at part stores. It's not that much of an effort to put on the correct lugs, either.

Well, from what I've read, it could be 21 Amps or it could be 80 Amps. I searched for an hour or two, but I couldn't find a "definitive source". (I wouldn't mind if someone posted a reference that would truly clarify this.) On the other hand, the fusible link gauge is approximately 16AWG. Do you need to get a replacement, or are you just looking for mischief? By the way, I gave Shelia at Eddie's shop your cell number since she didn't get your message. I hope you don't mind.

IMHO... Feedback through the ignition could be correct. Those of us who have upgraded our 70-77 S30s to an internally regulated alternator needed to add the diode. This article gives the details for a 240Z. Also, you could be getting some cross-connections on your ignition switch due to corrosion. It could be a combination of both, too. You could try spraying your ignition switch with something like Caig Deoxit. You might still need to replace the switch.