SteveJ

*Sigh* Seventeen years ago, the guy at the Nissan parts counter told me that a new dash was still available for only $825 or so. Of course, back then, that was like $5,000 to me. Today I was picking up my car from Eddie Radatz's shop in Kennesaw. He's cleaning up his shop some and getting parts ready to sell. Well, he showed me a new dash, 68100-E8800, in the box. He said that a customer got it for a restoration many years ago, but the dash was slightly discolored. The customer arranged to return it to the Nissan dealer for another dash. The dealer couldn't return the dash to the regional warehouse, so it sat around for a while. Finally, the dealership was clearing out some stuff, and gave Eddie the dash. I told Eddie that he should put it on eBay, but he's not computer literate. If you're doing a restoration and need a dash, it could be worth your while to give him a call. Just look up Radatz Motorsports online if you want to contact him.

It sounds like the nefarious seatbelt interlock to me. I'll try to remember to look at my FSM when I get home tonight. Meanwhile, look at my links and go to XenonS30. You can download a copy of the FSM and try to verify yourself. If it is the interlock, search on here. I know I posted somewhere about how to bypass it.

There are instances where people swap out components due to lack of availability (wiper motors), better quality components (blower motors), better engineering applications (headlight relays), cost, or convenience. For the fusible links in the 280Z, I've read some posts from people talking about the block that holds the links have deteriorated, driving the desire to find an alternative. For the 240Z, I have more of a problem in figuring out a good reason to move away from the fusible link. After all, there is only one. Also, given a lack of documentation on the ACTUAL ampacity of the link when I researched this, I wouldn't be confident about replacing the link with a fuse.

In the 74 and later FSMs, the fusible link cross-sectional area for a black link is given as 1.25 mm^2. This translates roughly as 16 AWG. Matching the gauge should get the same fusible link rating. None of the fusible links pictured at the Courtesy site are for a 240Z. However, Banzai Motorworks and MSA both have a 240Z fusible link available. It's not a bad idea to have one or two links handy. They can and will corrode over the years. Heck, most of us carry spare fuses in the car. Why not carry an extra link? Anyway, for the purist, the Banzai & MSA links are probably the best. For others, the part store (Autozone, etc.) links can easily be modified. Just get the 16 AWG links. You'll just have to modify the end. Purchasing the link wire in bulk probably won't ever be cost effective. For people replacing links with maxi-fuses, are you still comfortable with the fuse ratings given what I have managed to dig up? Maybe when I have some extra spending money, I can set up a rig to get a better idea of blow curves on the link wire so maybe we can determine what would be a proper maxi-fuse substitute.

Interesting, the Narva link lists that guage wire as having a 24 Amp continuous rating.

The proper gauge fusible link is available at part stores. It's not that much of an effort to put on the correct lugs, either.

Well, from what I've read, it could be 21 Amps or it could be 80 Amps. I searched for an hour or two, but I couldn't find a "definitive source". (I wouldn't mind if someone posted a reference that would truly clarify this.) On the other hand, the fusible link gauge is approximately 16AWG. Do you need to get a replacement, or are you just looking for mischief? By the way, I gave Shelia at Eddie's shop your cell number since she didn't get your message. I hope you don't mind.

IMHO... Feedback through the ignition could be correct. Those of us who have upgraded our 70-77 S30s to an internally regulated alternator needed to add the diode. This article gives the details for a 240Z. Also, you could be getting some cross-connections on your ignition switch due to corrosion. It could be a combination of both, too. You could try spraying your ignition switch with something like Caig Deoxit. You might still need to replace the switch.

The combo switch is on the right. That is part of the turn signal switch. I don't think that wire dangling is part of the headlight circuit. What colors are on the wire? I'm thinking that you might have lost the ground at the turn signal switch. That would cause you to lose your headlights. There are turn signal switches available on eBay. Just don't expect a good one to be cheap. You could also try contacting ZBarn to see if Roger might have a good one available. There is this auction: 150520446415. Compare it to your switch.

Yikes! I hate IPOs (Idiot Previous Owners). Of course, IF I ever sell my Zs, I'm sure someone out there will curse me as an IPO, too. If you need any help, keep posting.

Here's the link to the article Ron is talking about.

You'll have to drop the tank at least part of the way down. There are some vapor hoses you'll need to deal with as you drop the tank, too.

Jamie, I left you a voicemail. Call me back or PM me.

Just be sure to carefully follow the modifications to jumper out the voltage regulator. You'll probably need to go to Radio Shack, too, to get a diode to add to the circuit. I'll give you a call after I run some errands.

Jamie, do you need me to drop by on Saturday to give your electrical system the once-over?

So are you insinuating that the "power bulge" is just another example of sex sells? If so, don't tell my wife. She'll get jealous when I'm in my garage with my 240Z & 260Z.

Do NOT use WD-40 as a lubricant. It is not a lubricant. Greases will tend to trap dirt. Search for dry lubricants. DuPont makes a line of them.

That is why many of us have switched over to using relays for the headlights. The majority of the current for the headlights will go through the relays and not through the switches.

Correct. It's 8 degrees at 750 RPM. It doesn't take much in the way of tools to set the timing: metric wrenches, inductive timing light and tach. You can find a book on Holley carburetors on Amazon. That should tell you how to set the floats to get rid of the rich condition. Of course, cylinders 3 & 4 will probably have to be richer than 1 & 6 due to the design of the intake. Don't forget to look at your plugs. Compare them to this chart.

Ed, fix the known problems first. You say the car is running rich. Get the mixture and timing right. Eliminate the easy causes for detonation. Then see if you still have a problem. Otherwise, you'll empty your wallet trying out everything and hoping something works.

I think your URL is being truncated. That's not a valid address.

Do you still have the smog pump installed? If not, is the inlet to the exhaust manifold where the smog pump feeds plugged? Have you checked the timing lately? How about your spark plugs? The mixture? Here is where I'm going. If your car is sending too much unburned fuel into the exhaust while it is adding air to the exhaust, you can get a backfire. Typically, there is more unburned fuel immediately after you let off the gas. If the timing is off or if the plugs are fouled, that could lead to more unburned fuel in the exhaust. If the car is running rich, you get more unburned fuel in the exhaust. If the timing is too advanced, you could get knocking, too. If there are hot spots in the cylinders (usually caused by deposits or corrosion) you can get detonation. What octane are you running in your car?

Have you tried looking at the FSM? I'm pretty sure it has troubleshooting guides.

I beat you only because I was brief for a change.

It could be the u-joints. Also, look for more loose/missing bolts.