SteveJ

Why do you need a new wiring harness? IMHO, the 240Z wiring is not that complicated.

It depends. I bought a 260Z two years ago for $2500. I've put close to $1500 parts and labor into it since, and that's a car with a solid body and not too bad of paint. I'm expecting at least a few hundred more for parts more, and that's without much in the way of customization. I met someone else who lives near Atlanta and uses this board. He bought a 73 240Z for $5000, and I know he's put a pretty good chunk of change into it. However, I would say that he car is worth over $10,000, and my car is worth significantly less.

Here are a couple from my 73.

Thanks, Jan. It does help. I have the defroster indicator light. It wasn't mounted because it needed repair. It looks like I'm just missing a couple of blanking plates. I can handle that.

I purchased a 280Z console from Courtesy Nissan not too long ago to replace the mangled piece of plastic that was in my 260Z. There are two holes in the console that I assume would be filled on a 280Z. Could I get some feedback on what goes in them? The first is the hole between the defrost and choke lights. The second is a big square hole to the right of the defrost and hazard switches. Thanks in advance, Steve

I would have to look through some of the old FSMs to be sure, but I seem to recall posts saying that the 240Z was wired for an electric fuel pump. The 240Z in America did not come with an electric fuel pump, but you might find 73s with them as that was one of the measures taken to reduce vapor lock.

Nope, they were stock on the 73 240Z.

It entails a lot of frustration. Here is a picture from the FSM (along with my suggestion on how to jumper it out once it's disconnected). The neutral switch completes a circuit to the ignition interlock unit if the transmission is in neutral, a seat is occupied without the seatbelt in use, and the key is in the run position. This will light the seatbelt warning light and sound the buzzer. (Note: the drawing shows a normally open switch, and that's how I described the operation. However, it doesn't make sense to me. I would think it should be a normally closed switch, so if the car is in gear, the buzzer & light would be present.) The interlock was the idea of the brilliant bureaucrats in the federal government. (Disclaimer: At one time I was a bureaucrat, but I was disgusted by the thought of wasting the taxpayers' money, so I got a real job.) If someone set a bag of groceries down in the passenger seat, the car would not start unless the bag was securely buckled in. Of course, I do not advocate utilizing the passenger seat (or driver seat) for grocery storage during transit, but the system just didn't work that well. Many people just left their seatbelts buckled all of the time to reduce the headaches.

The 260Z had a neutral switch in the manual transmission to go with the horrid interlock relay system in the car. I don't have a picture of the switch, though.

Well, I found the box for the remote system. The receipt was in it, too. The PO bought it from (now) Black Dragon Automotive. It's the system pictured on the Door/Door Lock Kits page. The part number is 94-403, and the current price is $49.95.

Do you have a factory service manual? You can find one online at the link in my signature.

Well, do you want to count the systems that require us to disengage the clutch before starting the car or press the brake to shift out of park? Those are great for the mindless masses. What about all of the airbag sensors throughout the cars? How about airbags themselves? There's nothing like having an explosive device mounted near your head.

With the brand/model that the PO installed, there was no cutting of the door structures. There was one hole drilled for stabilizing the motor to raise/lower the arm attached to the door lock. It might be more what you're looking for.

I'm not sure how you could do that without cutting the door panels or drilling holes in the doors. The PO of my 260Z installed a remote door lock kit because of issues with a failing door lock. I worked on the door lock and yanked the wiring out for the remote kit. The PO didn't cut the panels. He just snaked the wires in a small loom out of the door, warping the panels slightly. The PO gave me the original box for the kit, and I think I still have it. I can give you the brand tonight maybe.

What do you want to reconnect? The seatbelt interlock was about the most inane government safety idea foisted upon the automotive industry in the 70s. IIRC, it didn't even last the full 1974 model year when it was implemented. From looking at pages EE-13 and BE-91 in the FSM, I think the red lines in the attached picture show what should be jumpered out to bypass the interlocks. Dave, feel free to correct me. Steve

Okay, the next thing I can think of is a possible dead cell in the battery. It will show voltage until you try to use it under a significant load. It's easy to check. Put a voltmeter on the battery and try to start the car (or turn on the headlights). If voltage goes down significantly, try a different battery. Also, have you checked the fusible links? How about the grounds?

Did you try just jumpstarting the car? You could have had a weak battery.

1. When you try to use the turn signals, do they come on solid or not at all? Are all of the bulbs coming on? 2. Is there any chance they flash if the engine is at greater than 2000 RPM? 3. Did you try just replacing the flasher unit?

I think this is one of them: Datsun Z Garage. I couldn't find an update for The Datsun Workshop.

Links are easy, especially in advanced editing mode. Choke Lever Mounting Hmm, what do you know? I looked at the thread after I posted this message. Apparently, the bracket I did is similar to what Mike W described.

A previous owner constructed a bracket in my 73 to hold the choke lever, and I copied it for my 74. It required me to drill two holes near the shifter to install. I attached the choke lever to the bracket with a small nut and bolt. I hope the attached picture helps. Steve

Does anybody have contact with Bryan Settle or any of the other guys with ZDayZ? I sent Bryan an email a couple of days ago to try to combine efforts for the Mitty, but I haven't heard back from him. However, I can understand ignoring an email you get from out of the blue.

Thanks. I looked at the Easy Access. It still looks a lot lower than what I want. The scissor lift (under Mid Rise Lifts at Greg Smith Equipment) goes up to 41 inches. That gives me plenty of clearance with my Zs, and I'm thinking it will work nicely with my Mazdas, too. Also, Greg Smith Equipment has a location in Atlanta, so I can see their products. They definitely aren't knock-offs, either.

Thanks for the advice. I measured my garage. It's right at 108 floor to ceiling, and I'm not sure if the pad is thick enough for the bolts to hold the lift securely. This is the scissor lift I'm contemplating. It would be great for most of the work I do on my cars, too. Does anybody have any words of warning/wisdom concerning scissor lifts?

Well, I talked to the guy who is changing out the u-joints for me. I was thinking about doing it myself, but I didn't feel like torquing on bolts with the car on jackstands. (A scissor lift is in my future, I hope.) I guess I should have at least taken time to inspect the driveshaft. He found two bolts missing and another was finger tight. VERY bad on me. I should have taken a closer look at all of the undercarriage when I bought the car. Anyway, I am still going to try to use this as a reason to push the scissor lift past most of the furniture my wife wants. After all, it's all about safety, isn't it?