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SteveJ
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Everything posted by SteveJ
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I believe that the interior is for the accessory relay. I think maybe someone is tapping off 12VDC to go between the ballast resistor and the accessory relay. I'm guessing someone was looking for switched power, and if I was a betting man, I would suspect a bad accessory relay precipitated that hack. -
I bought a set of non-retracting belts from Courtesy Nissan a few years back. I think they are hiding in my garage. They were in my 73 for about a year or so in the garage. I didn't drive it much. Send me a PM if you are interested. We could probably work out a deal.
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The belts are a bolt-in replacement. These are retractable belts. I purchased a set of belts for my 73 from WESCO before MSA offered them. They are the same design as what MSA sells, anchoring behind the seat. (I wouldn't be surprised if MSA didn't go through WESCO or WESCO's supplier for their belts.) It can be awkward to get the belt to extend with the MSA type, especially for us old farts who have less groping capacity than when we were young. For my 74, I purchased the "roadster" style. It mounts at the top anchor point and uses one of the bottom anchor points. It extends and retracts better than the set in my 73. These seatbelts don't look stock. They are not a restoration of your existing seatbelts. They are a great option for those of us not concerned with originality. If you want the MSA type, you can see pictures of my install in my gallery.
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Yes. I posted on an installation a week ago.
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Without pictures, your guess is better than mine.
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John, Now you have polarity correct. I suggest you look at my link for a meter with a higher scale for current. If you don't want to do Amazon, I think you can find one at Wal-Mart. I think you're starting to see why I was telling you to look at Chapter 10 in the Haines manual. As for the voltage regulator, there was a reason I said, If the regulator is bad, your current will drop to zero. Been there. Done that. Regardless, you have a serious current draw on your battery, and that is exactly why the battery drains so quickly.
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The old Z-Therapy SU video had all sorts of tips on it, including painting the console. It might be worth a look for you.
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Here. I have to learn how to stop spoon feeding...
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Maybe. You didn't post year and body style. Just a question...How much do you trust 30 year old seatbelts in protecting the life of your passenger anyway?
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If the meter goes negative, reverse the leads and try again.
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11.5-12 volts is on the low side at the battery, even with the car at idle. What was the RPM? Did you do the test at 2500RPM? What was the voltage with the car off? An ammeter with a 250mA scale may be enough, but there is a chance it isn't. You can look at this multimeter on Amazon. It's under $14 shipped, and it does have a 10A scale. The test I wanted you to do is to look for a shorted component that is draining the battery. If the battery is being drained quickly, it could have a large (greater than 1A) draw. If you order the meter today, you could have it by Wednesday. Not surprising, but not meaningful unfortunately. Exposed wires can lead to short circuits. Improper stereo installations sometimes involve bypassing fuses, eliminating protection for the wiring. This can lead to draining of the battery or even an electrical fire. Tape off any exposed wires. Please go back to my detailed procedure. The wording and order were given on purpose. If you don't understand something in it, send me a PM. Heck, I'll even call you and talk to you about it. Besides, I have a numb hand and don't feel like typing out explanations for all of the tests.
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Okay, let's get some better diagnostics going. These diagnostics assume that you know how to take voltage, current, and resistance measurements. If you don't, use your favorite search engine on how to use a multimeter. Measure the resistance of your battery cables. There should be only a tiny bit of resistance. On my 73, the 15 year old negative battery cable showed only 0.1 ohms to ground. Post your results for what you get. Fully charge your battery. Install it in the car and measure the voltage at the posts. It should be around 13.2 volts or so. Now measure from ground (any exposed bolt on the body) to the bolt where the positive cable attaches to the solenoid. Let us know the two voltages. If they match, your battery cables are definitely good. Let us know the voltages. Saying a signal is present does have any useful diagnostic meaning in these tests. Look for corrosion around the solenoid while you're at it. Now, if the battery is draining fast, you need to see how much current is flowing through it. With the battery in the car, hook the positive cable to the battery. Do not connect the negative cable. Make sure you are using a multimeter capable of measuring 10 amps. Set it to the 10 amp scale and plug the positive lead into the jack for 10 amps. That lead will go to the negative terminal of the battery. The common lead of the meter will go to the negative battery cable. If you do not get a reading, set the meter at the next scale down, move the positive lead to the proper jack, and measure again. Keep dropping the scale until you get a reading. A normal electrical system should only be drawing a few milliamps. I suspect that you will have a higher reading than that, though. Common problems that can cause a high draw on the battery are bad voltage regulators (Unplug the voltage regulator and re-test. If the current drops to zero, replace the regulator.) shorted alternator (Again, unplug just the alternator and re-test.) improper stereo installation improper aftermarket alarm system short circuit (remove fuses one by one until the current drops) You'll also want to check to see if the battery is getting a charge from the car. First check to see if you have enough tension on the alternator belt to turn the alternator. After starting the car, take a voltage measurement at the battery. It should be around 14 to 15 volts depending upon the temperature with the car at 2500 rpm. If you have a Haines manual, look at Chapter 10/Electrical system. There is some good diagnostic information there. If all else fails, send me a pm.
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Okay, the data is getting better. I'll post some more suggestions later on to help with the diagnosis.
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Okay, I'll bite. What's a solid signal? Did you just check continuity across the battery cables? Why do you think it's the starter? What's the voltage at the solenoid when you try to start the car? Option 1: Diagnose the problem. (See you FSM or Haines manual for diagnostic procedures.) Measure the resistance of the battery cables in ohms. Measure the voltage at the solenoid when you try to start the car both with your battery and when you jump-start the car. If you aren't getting enough voltage to the solenoid, it won't engage properly. You can replace the solenoid without replacing the starter. However, if it's just the battery cables, you pay about 1/3 as much for the solution. Option 2: Throw money at the problem. Buy a starter. Buy battery cables. If that works, fine. If not, buy more parts. I apologize if I sound harsh, but I tend to be direct. Take measurements and post facts. You'll get a lot less guessing and much better answers. P.S.: Don't forget to check your fusible links. They are getting old.
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I finally replaced the seat belts in my 260Z. A few years back I replaced the belts in my 240Z with belts from WESCO. Pleased with doing business with them, I purchased more seat belts from WESCO. This time I went with the Roadster Retractable Seat Belt, WELR-N. It uses the roof and floor mounting points. The hardware kit (a $9.95 option) also includes two 90 degree angle brackets for the bucket seat end. These brackets put the bucket seat end in a good position for use. Installation is so easy that I'm not even going to put pictures up. Frankly, I prefer the roadster style over the 140 inch 3 point belt. It's just something to keep in mind. Z car seat belts are old and may not provide full protection in a crash. I have more peace of mind with the new belts.
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Well, you may want to inspect your negative battery cable at both ends. Do a continuity check from the post of the battery to a bolt on the engine. You should only see a tiny amount of resistance. If there is not a good connection from the battery negative to ground, it would result in a voltage drop that could keep the car from starting.
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Randy, What Make/Model/Year did you use at the RockAuto site for the hatch strut?
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So have you verified that you purchased an alternator that IS NOT internally regulated? If it is, then you could get an overvoltage condition that could take out your lights. That is why I said to actually measure the voltage at the battery with the engine on. If you bought the alternator from a big chain parts store, they may have the wrong type alternator listed for your car. Their cross references are not always right. In 78 Nissan changed from an external voltage regulator to an internal regulator. Don't use the voltmeter in your car to determine whether or not you have the right voltage.
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1st thing: DON'T TAKE OFF THE BATTERY WITH THE CAR RUNNING. 2nd thing: Get the FSM. You can even find one to download at XenonS30.com. Then read the diagnostics on the charging system. 3rd thing: Check the alternator you put in the car. It might be internally regulated. Put a voltmeter on the battery and check the car while it's running. 4th thing: Look at your electrical system including grounds and fusible links. The car is over 30 years old. Corrosion wreaks havoc on wiring, especially in places like Florida.
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Speedfest at the Classic Motorsports Mitty 2010 April 29-May 2 – Road Atlanta – Braselton, GA Stay tuned for developing news on the 2010 Mitty. We’ll be returning to Road Atlanta for our annual celebration of all things automotive, and this year’s event promises to be the best yet. Peter Brock will be our guest of honor at the event, and we’ll be recognizing the accomplishments of Peter and the rest of the Brock Racing Enterprises team in the automotive world. On Thursday night, we’ll have a special dinner to honor the entire BRE crew, including an intimate question and answer session for fans. In addition to the dinner, Peter will be on hand throughout the weekend to check out the races. Plan on stopping in the Classic Motorsports tent to attend an autograph session. We’re still working on a final list of participating team members, but we’ve invited John Morton, John McComb, Kirk Allegro, Mac Tilton, Trevor Harris, John Knepp, Joe Cavaglieri, Bruce Burness, John Caldwell, Bob Lyon and more from the original BRE team. Of course, the BRE team couldn’t be completely represented without the incredible cars they built over the years, so expect to see many of the original race cars and a few finely finished replicas to be present as well. Highlights include 1969 Pacific Coast D Prod Champion #44 Datsun 2000 Roadster, 1969 4th place Mexican 1000 BRE Baja 510 #89, 1970-71 C Prod Champion #46 Datsun 240Z, 1971-72 Trans-Am 2.5 Champion #46 BRE Datsun 510, #85 BRE 510 guest car of Bobby Allison, 1973 Baja 500 #300 BRE Baja 240Z and more. Lotus will be the featured marque for this year’s event, and will celebrate the honor by showcasing their new Evora coupe along with scores of historic Lotus racing cars. Concours d’LeMons- We love classics in all shapes and sizes, so we wanted to find a way for some of the orphaned and unknown to enjoy the spotlight. To that end, we’ve worked with the same minds that created the 24 Hours of LeMons to create the Concours d’LeMons. This event promises to be a light-hearted highlight of the weekend for lovers of underappreciated classics. Mazda Drivers Party- After the racing action on Friday, Mazda will be hosting a special party open to anyone with a Mazda key in their pocket. Come to meet and talk with the Mazda Pro racers, factory representatives, and executives that help make this company the number one choice of amateur racers. Classic Motorsports Cup race- The Classic Motorsports Mitty will host the second round of a new series for 2010—the Classic Motorsports Cup. The series is open to small-bore cars produced before 1965 and their continuation counterparts. this race promises to be a hotly contested battle among the cars that make up the core of our reader’s interests. Kumho autocross- Thanks to our friends at Kumho Tires USA, the 2010 Mitty will again offer spectators the chance to drive a Kumho-equipped Mazda MX-5 around our infield autocross course. This driving experience is completely free of charge, so make sure you sign up for some top-down driving fun! Moss pub- The Moss pub will be open for business during the evening hours on Friday and Saturday night. Come by for a cold drink and the best bench racing you’ll find this side of Siebkins. Challenge a friend to a game of darts or a spin around our slot-car track anytime, but don’t miss the live music performed by Wess Cobb on Saturday night. Historic Stock cars- No cookie-cutter “Cars of Tomorrow†here—HSR’s Historic Stock Car class features a full field of competitive racers piloting the cars from NASCAR’s past. Be sure to walk through the paddock to see these famous former race winners. Swap meet- Need headlight trim for your Spitfire? How about a new bumper for your Jag? Expanded for 2010, The Classic Motorsports Mitty now offers spectators an opportunity to find those elusive parts for their own project at our Swap Meet. Vintage motorcycle racing- More than just four-wheel fun, the Classic Motorsports Mitty will also feature vintage motorcycle racing around Road Atlanta’s 12-turn circuit. See and hear classic marques like Vincent, Triumph, Matchless and Norton in a nostalgic battle for bragging rights. Dozens of car clubs will be attending this year’s Mitty event, with more clubs signing up every day. It’s not to late to make plans with your club, so get together and make plans for the Mitty with your buddies! It’s not too late for your club to be a part of this gathering—contact our club coordinator, Tom Heath, to register your club and receive assigned parking areas and vouchers for free touring laps for club members! Stay tuned for further updates as the event draws closer. Trust us; you don’t want to miss the 2010 Mitty! Related Events
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Speedfest at the Classic Motorsports Mitty 2010 April 29-May 2 – Road Atlanta – Braselton, GA Stay tuned for developing news on the 2010 Mitty. We’ll be returning to Road Atlanta for our annual celebration of all things automotive, and this year’s event promises to be the best yet. Peter Brock will be our guest of honor at the event, and we’ll be recognizing the accomplishments of Peter and the rest of the Brock Racing Enterprises team in the automotive world. On Thursday night, we’ll have a special dinner to honor the entire BRE crew, including an intimate question and answer session for fans. In addition to the dinner, Peter will be on hand throughout the weekend to check out the races. Plan on stopping in the Classic Motorsports tent to attend an autograph session. We’re still working on a final list of participating team members, but we’ve invited John Morton, John McComb, Kirk Allegro, Mac Tilton, Trevor Harris, John Knepp, Joe Cavaglieri, Bruce Burness, John Caldwell, Bob Lyon and more from the original BRE team. Of course, the BRE team couldn’t be completely represented without the incredible cars they built over the years, so expect to see many of the original race cars and a few finely finished replicas to be present as well. Highlights include 1969 Pacific Coast D Prod Champion #44 Datsun 2000 Roadster, 1969 4th place Mexican 1000 BRE Baja 510 #89, 1970-71 C Prod Champion #46 Datsun 240Z, 1971-72 Trans-Am 2.5 Champion #46 BRE Datsun 510, #85 BRE 510 guest car of Bobby Allison, 1973 Baja 500 #300 BRE Baja 240Z and more. Lotus will be the featured marque for this year’s event, and will celebrate the honor by showcasing their new Evora coupe along with scores of historic Lotus racing cars. Concours d’LeMons- We love classics in all shapes and sizes, so we wanted to find a way for some of the orphaned and unknown to enjoy the spotlight. To that end, we’ve worked with the same minds that created the 24 Hours of LeMons to create the Concours d’LeMons. This event promises to be a light-hearted highlight of the weekend for lovers of underappreciated classics. Mazda Drivers Party- After the racing action on Friday, Mazda will be hosting a special party open to anyone with a Mazda key in their pocket. Come to meet and talk with the Mazda Pro racers, factory representatives, and executives that help make this company the number one choice of amateur racers. Classic Motorsports Cup race- The Classic Motorsports Mitty will host the second round of a new series for 2010—the Classic Motorsports Cup. The series is open to small-bore cars produced before 1965 and their continuation counterparts. this race promises to be a hotly contested battle among the cars that make up the core of our reader’s interests. Kumho autocross- Thanks to our friends at Kumho Tires USA, the 2010 Mitty will again offer spectators the chance to drive a Kumho-equipped Mazda MX-5 around our infield autocross course. This driving experience is completely free of charge, so make sure you sign up for some top-down driving fun! Moss pub- The Moss pub will be open for business during the evening hours on Friday and Saturday night. Come by for a cold drink and the best bench racing you’ll find this side of Siebkins. Challenge a friend to a game of darts or a spin around our slot-car track anytime, but don’t miss the live music performed by Wess Cobb on Saturday night. Historic Stock cars- No cookie-cutter “Cars of Tomorrow†here—HSR’s Historic Stock Car class features a full field of competitive racers piloting the cars from NASCAR’s past. Be sure to walk through the paddock to see these famous former race winners. Swap meet- Need headlight trim for your Spitfire? How about a new bumper for your Jag? Expanded for 2010, The Classic Motorsports Mitty now offers spectators an opportunity to find those elusive parts for their own project at our Swap Meet. Vintage motorcycle racing- More than just four-wheel fun, the Classic Motorsports Mitty will also feature vintage motorcycle racing around Road Atlanta’s 12-turn circuit. See and hear classic marques like Vincent, Triumph, Matchless and Norton in a nostalgic battle for bragging rights. Dozens of car clubs will be attending this year’s Mitty event, with more clubs signing up every day. It’s not to late to make plans with your club, so get together and make plans for the Mitty with your buddies! It’s not too late for your club to be a part of this gathering—contact our club coordinator, Tom Heath, to register your club and receive assigned parking areas and vouchers for free touring laps for club members! Stay tuned for further updates as the event draws closer. Trust us; you don’t want to miss the 2010 Mitty! Related Events -
What all are you planning on doing? Be sure if you disconnect the hoses that you bleed the master cylinder first and thoroughly before going to the wheels for bleeding. Also, the driver side rear drum is the furthest from the master cylinder, so bleed that one after the master cylinder.
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One time I got into a Dodge Intrepid (Gov't vehicle), closed the door, and heard the back glass shatter. It was the 3rd time the back window shattered on that thing.