SteveJ

If you truly set the timing to zero, as others suggested, that could be a big part of your problem. You want to initiate the ignition of the mixture before top dead center to allow it to propogate in time to cause enough expansion of combustion gases to drive the piston down. By setting timing to zero, you give the piston a very weak push. Also, what did you set your dwell at for your points?

What about this one?

Go to the Z Car Home Page and look for the link on Z Ownership.

Before I converted the headlight circuit to relays, I was getting 9.5 volts at the right headlight with the car off. That's a pretty significant drop. In addition to what Dave said on the benefits of the parking light relay, it takes a BIG strain off your combo switch, especially when coupled with the headlight relays. The headlight relays also take strain off your dimmer switch. These are old cars. Wiring and switches are subject to corrosion. It's just a matter of fact. It doesn't matter if it's a Z car, Mustang, Camaro, etc.

Thanks, Dave. I was too tired to search myself. I forgot about the old axiom about replacing both headlights. It's relatively cheap to do that anyway. Superfunk - I STRONGLY recommend Dave's relay conversion sight unseen. I did it the old fashion way since my wiring harness was not exactly stock anyway. His is plug & play. The difference with relays is astounding. You'll be willing to drive at night with the mod.

What year Z do you have? All of the S30s have basically the same circuit for their headlights, so if you have an S30, the diagram in the Chiltons isn't useless. I was able to use it to learn the headlight circuit when I was designing a relay system (since surpassed by the plug-n-play system offered by a member of this site). Search this website for a simplified diagram of the headlight circuit that I drew. That may help. 1st - If you have a known bad headlight, replace it. Also make sure you have dual filament headlights. 2nd - If it was brighter when you used the switch, the circuit was probably working. 3rd - Check your fuses, or better yet, just replace them. It's cheap. 4th - You can always remove and clean both the headlight and dimmer switches. Be careful dismantling the headlight switch as parts will want to pop out and disappear. 5th - Check the wiring harnesses. You could have a loose plug or corroded connection somewhere. If you have a ZX, the diagnostics differ slightly, but I don't know the details.

Here is a CD of the FSM with the parts microfiche.

You might want to bookmark this list: http://www.zcar.com/links/index.php?ParentID=6 You might try getting in touch with Roger. He's busy, so you have to be persistent. You're not going to have much luck going to a junkyard unless you drive up to Virginia.

Here's a quote from the ad you linked: You can call a Motorsport Sales Technician, who will be happy to search for a set for you, or you can locate your own. So, with that in mind, I'm going to throw out a crazy idea that maybe if you call and talk to a Motorsport Sales Technician, that technician may be able you find the hubs you need. I have a penchant for the obvious. Now if there is some reason you do not trust the help you could receive from Motorsport, you could look at ads on any number of Z car websites to find auto dismantlers/junkyards/whatever you want to call them that have early Z cars.

My suggestion is to modify the headlight circuit to use relays. That will take a load off the wiring and your alternator.

I took a chance, based on David's post, and ordered the 120" seatbelts from Wesco. When I mounted them, they did not have enough slack to allow me to move. The company is really good about exchanges, though, so I swapped the belts out for the 140" belts. I just received those yesterday, and I'll be mounting them soon. (History note: When I got my 73, it did not have shoulder belts. I got those from Autogator in Sacramento. I attempted to fit in some 74 seatbelts into the car, but the retracting mechanism would not fit into the pocket on the floor. Later, I bought the non-retracting seatbelts from Courtesy Nissan, but my wife didn't like them, and I wasn't crazy about them, though I thought they were better than 30+ year-old seatbelts.) Observations: It is good to have spacers on the shoulder mounts to allow them to swivel. Otherwise, the belt will not move easily. The belts are designed to have both ends anchor to the floor. I'm not sure if the early 240Zs with non-retracting belts have two anchor points on the floor. I mounted the retracting mechanism on the outer anchor point since it allows for a more vertical alignment for the retracting mechanism. I'll take pictures after mounting.

MSA for a rebuilt/redesigned fusebox. ZBarn, Danny's Datsuns, etc., for one pulled out of a junker.

I'm curious. Is there a particular reason you keep bringing up 3-year-old threads?

1. Unless someone has replaced your fusebox, the Kragen people were talking about the wrong type of fuses. Fuses don't have to be ordered. They should be stocked on the shelves. The fuses you need are glass tubes. The rating is etched on the metal ends of the tube. 2. More importantly, you are suffering from a common malady in the first generation electrical system. There is enough corrosion in the circuit that you are blowing fuses. My 73 had that problem. It was bad enough that it melted the fusebox. Here is a thread that talks about the same problem: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19118&highlight=fuse+melt

You don't post the year of your car, so it's difficult to guess. You might want to check to see if a previous owner hacked the wiring to add an alarm, stereo, etc.

If you are not concerned with originality, take a look at this tech tip: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/shifterbushing/index.html.

Not to sound too untrusting, but does the previous owner have the receipts available to show that he bought the parts (hoses, belts, etc.)? I'd hate for you to get down the road and find that he was less than truthful.

Okay, bring all the 10 MM wrenches you can find. 12 MM & 14 MM are good, too. Spare wire: 10, 12, & 14 gauge. Solderless lugs, wire cutters & crimpers. Look out for the fuse box. It can get hot & melt down with extended nighttime driving. Fuses. Possibly a spare headlight (Pick it up when you're down there.) A jug for water. Some oil. If it still has points, you might want to consider a dwell meter. Just check the hoses before you go, especially the heater hoses.

You'd probably get better answers by posting in a 240Z forum. You posted your question for the 240K. Different car, different continent.

Wasn't the T-5 also used in Mustangs? If so, could the switch be available from Ford or an aftermarket supplier for Mustang parts?

Actually, my 73 has a 5 speed, and the switch is on the right side. Since Reverse is down and to the right, I'm not sure why the switch would ever be on the left.

It should be possible. It's difficult to see if your car is on jackstand/ramps. I could see it when my car was on a lift.

If you claim that someone did a hack job on the wiring harness, what good would it do to be able to read a correct wiring diagram? The wiring of the Z is fairly simple. The wiring diagram for my 87 Supra takes several pages of the FSM, and each page folds out. Before I forget, yes, the pages are printed double-sided. I suggest that if indeed the harness was hacked, get a good one first. Trying to interpret someone else's mess probably won't do you much good. By the way, what do you mean by the charge isn't going anywhere? Did you measure voltage at the battery while the car was running. Is your battery dying all of the time? Maybe you should consider buying a copy of the Automotive Electrical Handbook as a primer.

I like the look. Which body kit is that?

Why don't you try a more reputable firm like ZBarn, Danny's Datsuns, etc. Yes, you'll pay more, but it will be worth it.