SteveJ

If you go to to the links on this website or http://www.zcar.com, you can find many people who deal in used Z parts. You could contact them about wiring harnesses. Be sure to have the build date of your car.

Some do and some don't. The wiring is there for an electric fuel pump. Yes, you can use just an electrical pump, provided it is at the proper pressure.

Think about the electrical system as a series of pipes. The alternator is analgous to a pump. Corrosion is like putting big rocks inside the pipes. If your pump isn't working, you can't get the water to flow. If there is something blocking the pipe, you can't get the water to flow. So, you may need to clean connections even if you replace the alternator. As for cleaning connections, a lot of people swear by Craig Deoxit. You can find it online and at Radio Shack.

Boy, that's a D'oh moment for me. It's been WAY too long since my electrical engineering courses. Maybe I can come up with a better excuse for my brain fart later. Of course, if there is a diode in the charging circuit, I would expect that it would show up in the 260Z & 280Z wiring diagrams unless it's hidden in another component. I need to start tearing more stuff apart so I can remember how things work.

That's an issue of resistance probably from a build-up of corrosion. Clean your switch, connectors, and bulb sockets. Another solution might be to change out the flasher unit if you haven't done that.

As far as I know, it only truly matters if one is adding electical/electronic components.

You could also be right. I don't know what causes the issue. I don't think that it's because of the presence/absence of an electronic ignition. I have a Crane electronic ignition in my 240 and experienced the run-on. Anyway, the diode is cheap. It's handy to have in case run-on is an issue.

The alternator from the Z31, the 280ZX, and 78 280Z will work. HOWEVER, all alternators for Z cars 78 and later are internally regulated. That means you will need to bypass your external regulator or face some big-time issues with your charging system. You'll also need to install a diode on the alternator to prevent feedback issues that will cause run-on Been there. Done that. Got the T-shirt.

Well, my thinking is that deer whistles are as effective at repelling deer as the magnets on the fuel line improve gas mileage. Google can be your friend, too: http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=deer+whistle http://cru.cahe.wsu.edu/CEPublications/eb1677/eb1677.html http://advance.uconn.edu/2002/021118/02111812.htm http://www.ibmwr.org/otech/deerw.html http://www.newton.dep.anl.gov/askasci/gen01/gen01522.htm http://www.cnr.usu.edu/crossings/pubdetail.cfm?projname=&locstate=&Submit=Search&offset=51&pID=862 Need more? Just use that Google search. I didn't include the "pro" side because they fell into two categories: people selling the product or anecdotal accounts. Neither is enough to convince me, especially the testimonials. After all, I've been out on a golf course in a thunderstorm without getting hit by lightning. Does that mean it's a safe thing to do?

The difference between the 280Z and 280ZX is that they share nothing except powertrain components. In essesnce, it's about like asking what the difference is between a 78 Mustang II and a 79 Mustang.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22201

You'll find those bodies in California and Arizona.

The wiring diagram in the Haynes manual is pretty close. Also search/bookmark this site: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips.

I suggest searching. Try here, zcar.com, and hybridz to start. Also use Google to search different websites because the information is out there.

You might post your question over at Zcar.com. I think there are a couple of people who are willing to tackle the flattop carbs.

Either jack up the front or back at a given time. Don't lift one side at a time to place on jackstands. From the FSM: The front jacking point is center of front suspension member and rear is differential gear carrier. Do not apply a jack to center portion of front suspension transverse link. Front supportable points for (jack)stand(s) are both front side members. (Translation: along the frame rails but not under the floor pan.) Rear supportable points are both sides of front differential mounting cross member.

Yes. When the rear is on jackstands, there is not anything to keep the front wheels from rolling aside from the tiny lip on the ramps. Either chock the front wheels on the ground or put the front up on jack stands.

If you don't have the car yet, your questions on the exhaust and fuel lines are grossly premature, as is the effort to purchase a factory service manual. Get the car first, then plan accordingly. Focus on safety: rust, brakes, rotten fuel lines, etc., and then work from there. Make a list of all of the things that you need/want to do, and find out how much it will cost. It's not easy to have a 30 year old car as a daily driver. Be prepared to do a LOT of maintenance work unless you have time and resources to thoroughly refresh the car beforehand, even then you'll have a lot more maintenance than on a more modern car if you do things by the book.

Wait. He's still in high school. We should not prompt him to have the fully stocked fridge, yet.

Aw, that'll buff right out. Years ago I had an electrical fire in my Z due to my failure to properly secure the battery. Fortunately I had my fire extinguisher handy. I unlatched the hood and sprayed through the gap, quickly putting out the fire. It took some time to patch the wiring, but the car is fine now.

Don't forget about a 17 mm crow's foot and feeler gauge for adjusting valves. Also two torque wrenches. One should measure in foot-pounds. The other should measure in inch-pounds. Proper torque on bolts can prevent warpage and leaks. - By the way, Kenshin, search Zcar.com for valve adjustment. You'll find a link to an excellent guide written by a user named Kammy. I used it for my first valve adjustment, and it was a piece of cake. While you're at it, find the tech tip page of a user there named Blue and bookmark it. Other important tools to me are... Good jack stands Good ramps Spring compressors for your struts - Harbor Freight has them cheap Brass hammer Rubber mallet Floor jack - even the small ones for $20 at most parts places will work. Multimeter - get one that can measure 10 Amps. Timing light with an adjustable dial A good solderless crimping tool - there are probably a lot of corroded wires Boy, this list could go on for a while, especially if I looked out in my garage.

So what kind of research have you done (besides posting questions)? Have you looked at a Haynes manual or factory service manual? Do you know how to perform a basic tune up?

The Z car series have metric fasteners unless someone replaced them with SAE fasteners, such as on battery cables. (Edit) Oh, they do use SAE spark plugs. I don't think anybody has NEW gas tanks for these 30 year old cars, though Motorsport Auto may be working on some reproductions. You can get used tanks from any of a number of parts vendors. Be prepared to treat/recondition the tank, though. What do you want to replace the manifold with? Stock? Headers? Details, man. We need details. Why are you worried about sludge in your engine?

Yes, it's nice to have the headlights & running lights that go off when the door is opened. On the other hand, I know I'm not up to engineering that. I had enough fun just developing a working way to splice in relays for the headlights (done before someone smarter than I am thought to just design a plug & play solution). I placed the headlight buzzer under the center console. You can hear it, but I don't find it annoying. It can't be nearly as annoying as finding a dead battery when you need to go somewhere.

Actually, I took the terminals off the wires of the buzzer, placed the bare wire around the fuse, and put the fuse back in. I used the wiper fuse and right headlight fuse to work. The wiper circuit is not hot all of the time.