SteveJ

Just be aware of what gauge wires your terminals are designed to take. Doing some quick resistance calculations, you are upsizing a lot of wires with little to no benefit. You may end up with an issue getting your engine harness through the hole in the firewall. (Keep in mind that it will probably be easier if you put the pins in the connectors after you get the harness through the firewall.) You may want to check out a voltage drop calculator like this: https://www.calculator.net/voltage-drop-calculator.html Choose estimated resistance. I did a quick calculation for the headlights with a swag for the distance and used incandescent sealed beam ratings. The voltage is 13.8 because that is toward the low end of operating voltage while the car is driving. Many of your circuits for the engine harness are grounded close to the load, so this calculator would overestimate the voltage drop. The battery/charging system are your highest current circuits, so the larger gauge can easily be justified. No other circuit comes close especially if you change the parking light circuit to LEDs, as that is probably the biggest continuous draw you would see. Other high draw circuits: Fan (14 AWG is fine, but you might be better off with 12 AWG) Fuel pump (This is about 10 A or less. 14 AWG would work.) Headlights (depending upon whether or not you switch to LEDs. LEDs would drop this circuit to about 3 A.)

Low impedance would translate to more current. More current means more power. More power means more heat.

Search many dealers. Some say NLA, and others say they have them. Here's a Google search on it: https://www.google.com/search?q=toyota+81110-60P70&oq=toy&aqs=chrome.0.69i59j69i57j69i59j46i131i199i433i465i512j69i65j69i60j69i65l2.4904j1j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 Here's one dealer that says they have them: https://parts.toyotasouth.com/oem-parts/toyota-headlamp-assembly-8111060p70

I found an inexpensive 600mA analog ammeter on Amazon. I should get it tomorrow. @Captain Obvious, you make it difficult to ignore these intellectual experiments.

How about an oscilloscope for voltage readings at the resistor? I blew up my last analog ammeter many years ago. Even replacing the fuse in it didn't bring it back to life, and SWMBO would not be happy if I went out and got the Simpson meter I have wanted for a long time. (Maybe I could get away with it after she's been working for a while. Shh!)

I'm thinking probably not. There is still a Ger Brock automotive in Portland. https://gerbrock.com/ They talk about starting out at the address on the cover of that catalog you posted. They don't mention Peter in their history.

They look to be the same housings, and the Toyota kit was... $63.80 with tax and shipping, so it's just a little less than what Mr. Stern is asking (if you think $100+ is a little less). And as I mentioned before, the relay kit is included with the Toyota part number, but it would have to be worked on some to work with the Z.

It would be about as difficult as replacing a sealed beam headlight. Wait! There's a video for that...

Probably

It's relatively flat. That's not unusual for H4 housings.

A while back I found that there was an H4 headlight kit for the Toyota Land Cruiser that used Koito H4 housings. This got my attention since Koito supplied many bulbs to Nissan, including sealed beam headlights. The website I found with the best price said they were sold out, so I put myself on the waiting list. Earlier this week I saw a post on Facebook where someone said he bought this kit from Toyota for his Z cars and supplied a part number. Using that part number, I searched dealerships online that said they had the part. One of the dealerships is on the other side of town, so I pulled the trigger and ordered a set. The kit arrived today. It has a nice relay harness that I won't need. I am just after the H4 housings. I'll put H4 LED bulbs in them and install them in the 260Z. If you're interested in a set of Koito H4 housings, the Toyota part number for the kit is 81110-60P70.

Try ACE Hardware. Maybe Lowe's or Home Depot may have spring that would work.

@Captain Obvious, I remember we discussed this some after I posted the video of the fuel gauge bench test. Indirectly you can see the voltage regulator in that gauge start by watching the ammeter on the power supply I was using. When it was cold, the current was high, and then as it reached equilibrium you could see the current fluctuating as the VR pulsed.

Thank you. I didn't remember they had the same VR.

First, I misread the wiring diagram. It's the blue wire, not the green/white that provides power. I'm not sure what you're looking at to say C6. Page BE-32 shows the blue wire going through C5 and over to the 6 pin connector for the gauge. The ground wire goes through C1. I hope that helps to clear things up for you. Make sure you look at BE-32 and ask questions on it if you need to.

The headlight circuit wiring changed some time during 71 or between 71 and 72, I believe. The original circuit had the headlight switch completing the path to ground from the high/low beam switch as shown in the 70 and 71 FSM. In 72, the headlight switch controlled the wire going to the fuse box. (white/red to red wires) The high/low beam switch connected to the ground wire instead of going through the headlight switch. This later design was used for the rest of the S30 run. The change in the 260Z on is the type connector used at the headlights. I periodically search to see if anybody has found a source, but I haven't had any luck so far. Dave mentioned the wiring change in the headlight circuit to me many years ago, and I dug through the wiring diagrams to understand what he was saying.

The meters have a common power source and a common ground. Note: I removed removed the image from the post since I tagged the wrong wire for the positive side of the circuit. I should have tagged the blue wire going into the 6 pin connector. The black is the ground for the gauges. Inspect the pins on the male and female connectors, looking for loose connections and corrosion. Also look for damage on the wiring harness on the back of the gauge and on the dash harness. After you remove the gauge, you may also want to start the car and measure voltage between the green/white and black wires on the connector for the gauge.

I hope you used fuses smaller than 30 A. That high of a rating won't protect the wiring adequately in the event of a short circuit. Just to be specific, this diagram only works for the early 240Zs where the headlight switch completed the path to ground. The later cars would have to be wired differently than this.

Charging problems with two alternators first points to the voltage regulator, especially since you didn't say whether or not you changed it. Keep in mind that if the voltage regulator is original, it is adjustable. The EE section of the FSM has the procedure. In addition to the link @kickstand80provided, you can download the FSM from here: The EE section is available, but unfortunately some other sections are not. (This applies to either download site.) If the voltage regulator is not an OEM part, it's probably time to replace it. You should test the alternator first, as was suggested. It looks like MSA has the best price for a VR, https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/12-4083. You may want to bite the bullet and order it today so it ships before they are closed for the long weekend.

What year 280Z?

I bought a 4-speed shift knob off ebay, and the threads weren't right. I ended up reaming out the hole and using a threaded insert.

No, it's not a loose fit. You press it on.

You can certainly tell those seats were assembled and re-covered by someone with excellent skills.

No, it clamps onto the ridge around the doorframe, just like the stock weatherstrip.

I bought some generic door weatherstrip from Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NELWRJ4 I believe it worked well, and it installed easily. I go into more detail in my thread on waking up my 73.