Go240Zags

The American Heritage Dictionary of the English Language version: Zed (zed) n. Chiefly British. The letter z. [Middle English zed, from Old French Zede, from Late Latin zeta, ZETA.]. zee (ze) n. The letter z Unfortunately I haven't figured out how to make the symbols indicating the long sounds over the e's etc. Then there's the Oxford English Dictionary listing for Z: Z - /zed, US zee/ (also z) • noun (pl. Zs or Z’s) 1 the twenty-sixth letter of the alphabet. 2 (usu. z) the third unknown quantity in an algebraic expression. 3 used in repeated form to represent buzzing or snoring. I've heard on more than one occasion that Americans (in the U.S.) pronounce their words much more like the Old English spoken at the time when the "Colonies" split with England. I believe I've heard similar claims about the English spoken in Australia. Something to do with isolation from mother country and the fact that the English spoken in England developed and changed more quickly and those people separated by the ocean failed to keep up with the latest changes and idioms. It would be hard to believe the same is true today, as American English is sometimes unrecognizable to me and I live here. The metre, litre, colour, etc. are all left over from the French aren't they? Even though the English often pride themselves on mispronouncing French words like fillet (fill-it) What does all this mean? I don't know, but when in college we had lots of kids from Vancouver, BC and Calgary, Alberta and other Canadian towns and I never could get used to 240Zed and Zed28. Nothing wrong with it, just always caught me off guard eh? And I live four miles from the Canadian border. At my newspaper we are used to putting in advertising that spells things Center or Centre, Color or Colour, etc. depending on the audience the advertiser is trying to reach. It's amazing how many Canadians and Americans don't even realize we spell things differently. I think I'll go with the Oxford Dictionaries last definition for Z/Zed and catch some ZZZ ZZZ ZZZs.

I have a set of four of these on my Z to roll it around the garage, etc. They have three chome Enkei caps, black in the middle and in various stages of rust. The wheels are kind of nice, not like any I've seen elsewhere, but they're 14's and I have some 15x7 Panasports that I'll eventually be using.

And one kind of artistic looking shot -- sort of like coming across an old skeleton in the desert look.

And here are some pics of the parts car, I also got the driver's door. It is dented at the bottom, but I've read here it is better to repair a dented, rust free door, then to try and fix a dent free, rusted door with a patch. Any other parts I should be looking at? The roof is kind of rough, no dents, but looks like it's starting to rust. The hood, stuffed in the hatch is really dented at the front point. The vented hatch was gone. The wrecking yard owner is cutting out around the tire well because it is perfect ($10) and he is getting me the uncracked windshield ($20). I could have had the whole car for $125, but just could not stand the idea of towing it for three hours and having another hulk in my back yard. My neighbors will start to complain. I don't know if the guy is up to cutting out both rear quarters. I'll have spent about $75 when I'm done, but I can sell some stuff to finance some more stuff.By the way, the car was originally orange. Mine is 905 red, but looks kinda orange in my cheap digital photos. Sad to see the state its in, but happy to know it will live on in my car.... eventually.... I hope.

I was driving to the State 1A Basketball Tourney in Yakima, Wash. last week when I spotted a Series I 240Z in Quincy. Stopped and found the owner and he said he had stripped two Zs and hauled to the wrecking yard. So, after Oroville was knocked out of both their games (2 days later) I returned to Quincy and found the cars. Imagine my surprize when one turned out to be a 10/70 Series I. The other was a 280Z 2+2. I stripped everything I could use before dark (there wasn't a lot left, but took what I could). I asked the owner of the wrecking yard if he could cut out the batter box area he said he could, but not until the next day (he said he'd already had 4 beers and didn't want to set the place on fire). It was Thursday, so I said I'd have to come back the next weekend and that I'd like the gastank too. I paid ten bucks for the parts I had (one good plastic tool box and hinge, the caps from the seat adjusters, a broken interiro hatch vent, a broken lid off the ashtray, plastic fuel fume thingy and whatever else I could grab). So, I drove the 3 hrs. to return Sat., and of course he hadn't left as much of the battery box as I wanted, but I think it will do to replace mine. Just very minor rust. It has to be better than the thick plastic dairy thing and chunk of 2x4 that had been screwed there before. I've included a couple photos with the PO's fix, as well as the removed contraption, and two pics with the repair section test fitted. I cut away all the really rusted area yesterday and found I have a bad rust thru in the firewall as well. Any suggestions, cut it all out and replace with a flat patch panel? Or is there a better way. I'll take photo of firewall tonight.

I believe this is one of those multiple choice polls. You have to select everything you are voting for first, then cast your ballot(s). No second chances, once you've voted you're done. Gary

Choose Photo Gallery from the Main Menu Item on the left of your screen by clicking the underlined words. Above the random photos there is a bar that should say: "My Gallery · Album Admin · My Favorites Home · Search · Profile · Upload Photos" Click Upload Photos. Hit browse, if you have photos saved on your hard drive or on a CD chose the location of the photo and click on the photo. If it is too large you won't be able to load it and it will tell you when you hit submit. You can do this with one photo for each blank line, by repeating the Browse and chosing a photo for each. The photos will then go thru the administrator who will decide if they will be upload and eventually they will show up in your gallary. It's not too hard, just takes a little practice. In order to load photos tho, you must have some already loaded on your hard drive, or, I believe on a CD or other type of media you can reach from the Browse option. Hope this helps.

There was a time where I really wanted a Nikon SP Rangefinder -- the precursor to all the later Nikon pro 35mm cameras like the F, F2, and F3, etc. I had the first three but thought it would be nice to have that professional camera from the late 50's/60's. One day I actually found one for sale with three lenses and other accessories for only $200. I bought it in a heartbeat. Needless to say the same cameras easily get 10 times that much (and more) on eBay when they come up. The long and the short of it is, the camera is in such minty shape, I'm afraid to use it as it was intended -- to take pictures. So now what I have is an expensive paperweight, lovely to look at, but not much good to use as it was intended. I believe cars are intended for driving, I would have probably been better off finding a user SP, with signs that the previous owner really loved to use it -- it wouldn't be worth as much, but a lot more fun. Gary

All right, that's a bit of a joke on my part. Actually I just wanted to talk about my 5 Speed Disc swap on my gear shift knob. Alan T. (HS30-H) in Merry Ol' England was kind enough to send me the disc off an old original 5 speed knob he had. (At no charge yet). Thanks again. So, I took my old original 240Z 4 speed knob with the broken disc, sanded the wood down to clean it up and reveal some grain and hit it with some clear varnish and will attach the new-to-me 5 speed disc. I used satin spray at first, but changed to a shiney varnish and liked it better. Any ideas in how to keep the knob from spinning, going to have to glue down the bushing (whatever the plastic threaded thing is called) I guess. I'm really happy because it will give a bit of originality to the old Series I, even if it didn't originally come with a five speed. I'm a happy camper even if my car is still no where near drivable.

In Washington State it is against the law for the government or law enforcement agencies to use a GPS to track your movements without a Court Approved Warrant based on Probable Cause. I'm not a paranoid or an anti-government wacko, but this sounds like another errosion of a citizen's rights. Rights like freedom of movement w/out having to tell anyone where you're going or where you've been. Glad I don't live in California. P.S. I'll take our sales tax (none on food) over a state income tax any day. No matter how many times someone tries to push a state income tax in Wash. the people always vote it down. Not very trusting as we know they promise no sales tax, but soon we'd have both.

Sorry, meant factory exhaust manifold not headers.

Thanks, Mark. Looking at my FSM I see I still have the air gallery pipe on my Z as it is now, it appears to be capped off at where the check valve goes. I also have an extra pipe from a parts car. Like you said, I will need the air pump, check valve, A.B. valve, a Tee and some hoses I guess. I've got nothing against clean air just was curious about the need for the air pump, I'd rather have it than not. Just a little worried about coming across the right parts. I'll keep an eye out on eBay I guess, I never thought to look for this stuff at the wreckers because every 240Z I've come across that has the engine intact is missing the carbs and that's as far as I've looked. Want to get back to a semi-original look. Since I don't have the matching #s motor I've decided to put in an L28 F54, flat top pistons, (N90/E31/E88 head) with the SUs mounted on the N36 manifolds with a fairly early Balance Tube missing some of the extra connections of the later ones -- not quite as clean as the "Euro" balance tube, but a little cleaner than the other ones I've seen. Another question, does the air gallery pipe hook up to the factory headers? If so, and you go to after market headers can you still use it? I need to go back out into the garage and look again.

I am missing this valve, as well as the air pump. A previous owner had installed webber downdrafts, which are coming out and 70/71 SUs will be going in. Should I find an airpump and anti-backfire (gulp) valve or just leave them off? Will this help with performance, or should I try and mimic what came on the car from the factory? What are your opinions?

It's such a simple double rocker switch, there is probably one the same size or close to it that could be modified out there, but finding the right supplier could be the problem. Edit: Enrique, what are the measurements for the switch? Nevermind, I guess I could just get my lazy butt up out of my chair and measure the hole on my console plate. Gary

Oh, now I get it -- bike shops on every corner -- sorry if I led the post astray. I'll go sit in the corner now. Sonofzzzap it sounds like your custom exhaust sounds great.

Then there was the man celebrating his 90th Birthday. His young 70 year-old son got him a room in a fancy hotel and for a lark hired his dad a hooker. The hooker, scantilly dressed, knocks on the old man's door and when he opens it says, "Hi honey, I'm here to give you super sex." The old guy, slightly hard of hearing, thinks about it for awhile and answers, "I'll take the soup."

It's my understanding that it is a a Ferrari replica in the movie, not the real thing. They used four replicas in the movie -- they were powered with Ford 5 liter V8s. Fiberglass bodies with no Ferrari logo, according to a website on the movie.

A JDM roadster possibly?

There's a 1972 FSM listed on eBay right now. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7953580126&category=34229 And the engine FSM from 1970 (original FSM came in two halves Engine & Chassis and Body) http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7953566493&category=34229

Here's a link to a past discussion of the cover, as well as racing mirrors: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9282&page=2&pp=15&highlight=Tonneau They also have a link to a recent eBay win by DJACEY(UK) which shows photos of the cover he won, as well as two instruction sheet photos which I will post a poor, but somewhat cleaned up copy of one. Maybe he'd be willing to photocopy them and send you a set. It looks like you were in on that discussion as well texasz. I will also re-post a copy of the picture Taikaki posted of the cover as installed. Looks pretty nice. Also a link that Carl Beck posted: http://ZHome.com/History/CargoCover.htm It has instructions on installation.

Bambi, you're right of course. My CD is not an FSM, it is a parts fische as well. Just mixed up my terminology and yes, I believe both are important and encourage anyone that doesn't have the club CD to get one. Gary