Go240Zags

I'm with you, that's about as close to country as I like to get. Not a big fan of both kinds of music "Country and Western" . When I was in college I got a job with event security and heard/saw/worked some concerts like ZZ Top in Spokane. 38 Special opened for them. So much of the newer country music sounds like everything else today it's getting hard to tell the difference. Less twang and slide guitar. I do kind of get sentimental for country when I hear some of the old songs like "Guitars and Cadillacs" that used to play on the jukebox at my late father's tavern when I worked for him.

I've had four or five early 240Z - Series I consoles, but have never seen one with this lever/switch on the right hand side like in this eBay auction. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190134726678&indexURL=0&photoDisplayType=2#ebayphotohosting Any ideas? - it could be a P.O. add on, but looks almost OEM installed. The winner, by the way, got a great deal if the ashtray is in as good of shape as it looks. Getting the ashtray alone for $105 with shipping is a bargain considering what the things are going for lately. I was watching, but snoozed. Got good consoles, just would like a spare ashtray - just in case.

Off topic - nearly $600 for the A/C option, makes the aftermarket kits available for $700 to $800 for my 240Z seem like a pretty good deal considering it's nearly 30 years from 1978.

Thought I'd try to save these for when the auction is over. I like it. Actually like the Bob Sharp colors best, but if I understand correctly the Camel colors are more "authentic" to its history. Definitely needs the BSR valve cover, but you can find those pop up for sale every once in awhile and if you can afford $45K you can probably afford one of those too.

MikeW, I added mine, but when I go back thru your link they don't show up. If I go thru you email invite, they do show up. Not sure what that is about. GaryD http://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=pgfGtZfjS1MhXEV8zDxh9Lg&inv=gdevona@gmail.com&pli=1

E. I asked for a shipping estimate and didn't get one - that plus his low total number of feedbacks made me wary of bidding as well. Not that I could swing it right now anyway. Plus there are much more pressing things needed for my Z. Gary D.

I found these threads with a quick search (the second thread is one you started Arne 'Newbie needs pre-purch advice'): 1. http://www.pronto.it/elenco/query.php 2. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18300&highlight=collapse+shocks 3. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12091&highlight=collapse+shocks

The "aluminum" rims on eBay sold for the $140 starting bid w/ one bidder. I was tempted but house and flood insurance due next month and I need to watch my pennies. I have a passenger cover with chrome trim, but not the driver's side. If I bid on those t/rims I'd still be missing one cover.

Gator, you're probably right - altho I'm thinking more like $139 or $149. Maybe that was with shipping. I guess what I was remembering was the last few I saw on eBay sold for over $200.

Wow, good thing you mentioned that not being what they charge. Seems to me the Courtesy one I have was over $200. I'm going to put it on ebay some day because I really don't need it any more. Genuine Nissan part too.

For looks I like what I've seen on the UK cars with the small chin spoiler/air dam/lip. However, if I recall correctly from old posts, these were not proven to do much to keep the front end down. I could be wrong and some of our UK/Euro members would know much better than I. I think I will go with the BRE-type for its abilities for stopping the front end from floating and its understated/period-correct look, especially here in North America. What were the more popular options in the home JDM market back in the 70s?

Are you planning on a front air dam and if so which type?

Wondering if anyone has the MSA Mud/Splash Guards on their car and how they like them? These are the molded guards listed here: http://thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/SG Not cheap for four, but maybe they would stop the occasional rock chip. Would love to see a photo of them mounted to a first gen Z to help me decide if these are something I'll want to put on the car once it gets some new paint. Thanks in advance for your pictures, opinions. Gary D.

Jim, You've been an inspiration, altho won't be able to make the 'mostly myself' claim about the welding. Having a friend do it for me, but hope to learn and do as much of it myself as he'll let me. Stripped off tar-mat, vinyl and pulled the old engine on Sunday. Will have new floorpans, seatmounts and frame rail reinforcements, as well as a fixed hole under battery. I am stoked. Now to sell some extra parts to finance the job. Your car is looking beautiful - hope to see you and the car in person in Tacoma some day.

E - Yes, I noticed that they were NLA when I did a search about hatch removal and the subject was in one of the posts. These have big holes in the center of each, but I will reuse them - maybe work on a way to fix them first. Gary D.

Well, It took some major wiggling, but I got the passenger side hinge out first, then worked on the driver's side and it finally came loose. I believe it was the hinge boots, or what's left of them, that was holding things up. No broken glass or creased roof. Thanks for all the advise - I'm sure i had no such trouble with the last hatch I took off. Next I have to remove another tar mat from the floorpans and then pull the engine and tranny. I'm running out of weekend though.

Thanks for your answers. I did not want to try and remove the large-headed philips screws that appear to hold the hinge to the hatch - they look like a stripped head waiting to happen. I will try wiggling the hatch some more. If that doesn't work I'll see if I can't get a friend to help me apply some wiggling from both sides. Back to the garage I go.

I wouldn't call this an emergency, but I do need to get my car stripped before the welder comes next week to work on it. I can't get my rear hatch to come loose. I removed the four 12mm bolts (broke the last one of course) and it won't come off. The hinges seem to move around in their pockets, but won't seem to come free. I know I have removed at least one hatch prior to this because I remember doing so and it is sitting in my garage. I look at the hinges on it and they don't seem to have had anything but the four bolts holding them on. What am I missing? I have wiggled it, cajoled and cursed, but to no avail. It's starting to make me feel stupid - I finally gave up around 12:30 a.m. yesterday and forced myself to go to bed so I can tackle it fresh today. I can't find my Wick Humble book all of the sudden to look for clues, so I am appealing to you fine folks for help.

Eminent Domain generally relates to private property in the sense of land. For example if the government wanted to seize your property to put in road, park etc. for the "public good." i.e.: Expertlaw "Eminent domain refers to the power possessed by the state over all property within the state, specifically its power to appropriate property for a public use. In some jurisdictions, the state delegates eminent domain power to certain public and private companies, typically utilities, such that they can bring eminent domain actions to run telephone, power, water, or gas lines. In most countries, including the United States under the Fifth Amendment to the Constitution, the owner of any appropriated land is entitled to reasonable compensation, usually defined as the fair market value of the property. Proceedings to take land under eminent domain are typically referred to as "condemnation" proceedings." Although of late many local governments have taken this law to mean seizing people's businesses to allow shopping malls or other developments to go in. Citizens are starting to fight back against this blatant abuse of the Constitution. Eminent Domain has nothing to do with seizing cars. The Fourth Amendment of the U.S. Constitution is supposed to guard us against unreasonable searches and seizures. But, as someone pointed out, the rich often can afford to fight these things while those without the means can't. Crushing the cars seems like an unreasonable waste of resources. No one is compensated, reasonably or otherwise, for this "taking" of their property so eminent domain does not apply. Take their licenses away - problem solved. If that doesn't work and they continue to participate in illegal street racing then jail time makes more sense to me.

Good News: Finally going to get welding done Texas, I am piggy backing on your thread because 10 attempts to start my own new one were unsuccesful: Sorry this is so long, but I've had some good news: The guy that has been promising to do the welding on my car came by just today (yesterday now) and it sounds like the news is much better than expected. Although my current project #7273 is in much better shape than my last, there are areas that need attention. I was going to have Pat patch up the floor pans since they are fixable, but since I have a nice set of Charlie Osborne/Zedfindings replacements I figure I'll have them welded in and get a fresh start. Also have the Bad Dog seat mounts (and frame rail reinforcements). I have two donor battery trays so the hole under the battery (about a quarter the size of the one on my old shell) will be fixed up. Might just do the bolt in like James in Tacoma did (I've been saving all the photos he's sent-good stuff). Pat is a very experienced professional welder with all the tools - mig and tig welder, plasma cutter, air compressor, nippers, etc. And he's doing the work at my place on the concrete slab in front of my garage (all wooden garage - log exterior, wooden ceiling and floor + sparks from a welder not a good mix.) His health has been iffy so that's why I've waited nearly a year and gotten a new shell since. Glad it was delayed the old car would have taken much more work. Pat can't work regular hours so doing some work for me on the side is kind of a favor to both of us, But I'm the lucky one because the best part is he is doing it all for $10 an hour. Just taking a shot in the dark with my fingers crossed I asked what do you think we're talking here 50 hours? I could have been knocked over with a feather when he said 40 to 50 hours. If I can get the cancer cut out and replaced with good metal for $500 bucks I'll be a happy camper. Paid $600 for the shell (I now have two spare 240Z engines with e88 heads if anyone's looking) +500 for rust repair + $1,000 on my F54 w/ P90 and 30 over flat-top pistons) + $300 for my carbs w/ Z Therapy rebuild kits. That's under two grand. I just might be able to afford to pay for the minor body work and a presentable paint job and have my rear bumper re-chromed. I think I've just about got everything else I need except new diamond vinyl. On the engine side I might get a slightly more aggressive cam to go with my engine upgrades and ceramic-coated headers. I am so close now I can almost taste it. When I first got my current project I thought it was the pale yellow under the black paint, but the more interior metal I reveal I now see it was the lime-yellow color. Can't quite get myself to go for that. I was in love with the red-red, but now looking at white or silver. Leaning toward the silver. Sorry all you Pac NW Yellow Zers. It won't be a show car (the matching #s motors on both my Series I cars are long gone), but it should be a solid good-looking, healthy Series I that I won't be afraid to take to a Z event when everything is done. The old shell would be an expensive fix, but contains some good spares. If I ever find the time I'll be listing some parts in the classifieds and eBay I won't need. I have 260Z fenders, 71.5-78 hatch w/ glass, some so-so doors, a 280Z vented hood and a rare genuine Nissan rear hatch repair panel and more.

Yes, thanks. It was kind of disappointing as I couldn't just get off and get another. Still, I enjoyed the magazine very much. Thanks again Ad240Z

Can't see photo, other than in your avatar. From what I can see it looks great. Glad to see more gals joining the forum.

Not to belabor the point, but as far as parts interchangeability, lest we forget the original Ford Mustang shared the same frame (albeit slightly modified) with the Ford Falcon of the day. I believe several other parts were interchangeable between models as well. And even though I've never sat in a new Mustang, I'd be willing to bet there are some shared parts with the Ford 500 or Taurus or whatever is out there. Just like nearly all other car companies, they share parts between models. Nissan could do the same with engine, interior parts, etc. and still have made a body more reminiscent of the first gen Z. My mother had an '86 Mustang and it had, IMO, very disappointing styling. The next model was slightly more attractive. The Mustang IIs, like the Bronco IIs were disappointing as well. (Sorry I miss my '74 Jeep Wrangler size Bronco.)

Ditto on that - the new Mustang is a great looking car that screams Mustang from every angle - without being an exact copy of the original. If Ford could do it, why couldn't Nissan?

I don't know if anyone has seen the Practical Classics May 2007 Issue. The last thing I did before leaving Italy for home was pick up a copy of this UK magazine at Leonardo DaVinci Airport near Rome. It caught my eye among all the Porche, etc. magazines because it had a photo of a 240Z at the top of the front cover with a "Datsun 240Z Buyers Guide" advertised as being inside. Well, I bought it and read about all sorts of interesting restoration projects with several Brit cars I've never heard of. I was saving the 240Z story for last as it was a 10+ hour flight back to the States. Guess what - the start of the 240Z article is missing. So it starts somewhere in the middle. It's supposed to start on page 110, but there are only ads there. The article starts with the last paragraph of what I assume is part of a where to look for rust guide. I've looked throughout the magazine to see if it starts somehwhere else. If anyone else has or saw this (perhaps in the UK) is your copy the same? It's kind of an interesting magazine - great place for restoration tips of all sorts. There's a welding article and pages where readers can send in info about their rides. I paid 8.80 Euros (3.90 Euro cover price if I had bought it in UK).