panchovisa

Minor point, but might help when communicating with others. The term CG (center of garavity) has been used often in this thread incorrectly. The term it has been substituted for is "ride height" and or "roll center" Yes, if you reduce the ride height you will lower the CG, but you can lower the CG without lowering the whole car (just reposition weight lower in the car). Ride height is fundementaly tied to the suspension geomety , the center of gavity is totally independent of the suspension geometry. The roll centers (one center for each end of the car) is related to how all the angles, distances, etc of the geometry produce an axis of roll from front to rear. Just helping to clean up the terms for everyone.

A rubber mallet in a drawer of knifes.

But only until Californians evolve into logical beings. Don't take offence Carl, your really not programmed to understand yet.

Steve, remember that no good deed goes un-punished. Your on your own here, see ya.

bpilati, Imron is good stuff, so is same thing from different company (Deltron), your right to wear respirator because the two parts form a urethane plastic, don't want to inhale drolets and have them form plastic in your lungs, very tough-used on airplanes and race cars, doesn't chip (as much), door dings with or without chips still suck.

Had my car painted with conventional paint. Drove around the neighborhood on race slicks and when I got back to my garage all the paint had been sandblasted off the front of my rear flairs. Car went back to body shop and got "gravel gaurd" applied to flairs and re- painted with Deltron (2 part urethane similar to Imron) and clear coated. Later buffed out and it was spectacular!!! Over the years I've had some yellowing (think caused by poor sealer), but I'm re-doing the body and it will be re-painted again soon.

I've never had mine over the legal posted speed limit. Felt real stable. Deep indeed.

Man, your going all out. Are those rubber or urethane bushings?

Check out billet aluminum mount at: http://www.arizonazcar.com/diffmount.html

Maybe the traders in oil contracts are figuring in the price increase after the November election? The Saudi Royal family gave North America and Europe a price "adjustment" for all shipments loaded in October. The Saudi ambassabor to the U.S. said that the Royal family always feels it is in their best interest that the U.S. goverment maitains the status quo. That is understandable on their part, they have spent a great deal to be represented in U.S. politics. After the election expect the Saudis to price their oil at the level they can (with the old, or a new administration). Domestic refiners will also gouge to their hearts content and boldly point their finger abroad or blame the "winter fuel oil need", and the goverment will blame the consumers for not conserving without taking responsibility for the lack of a national policy (not even if it already has been enacted behind the V.P. office door). Everybody will get what they want, except the consumer.

Used to be racers used Lexan, but realize that it will cost more than glass. I seem to recall that there was a special version of Lexan that was more resistant to scratching. The stuff is tough, but figure the front windshield will be toast soon from wiper scratches and sand/stone pits. You will probably also need to brace the inside of front and rear windows to keep them from buckling into the car (not "rigid" like glass). Look into adding tear offs to increase front windshield life. Advantage is probably 100 lbs less weight (and high up at that) which will lower the center of gravity, main disadvatages are cost and fabrication time.

Sounds like your not putting a new racer together. Really feel bad about your beautiful car getting trashed. Engine sounds like a lot of power for a good price, somebody will be happy.

Speedy, You don't sound like you want to tackle this job. With that in mind, go get a 240 rear strut with control arm attached (then you don't have to pull the pivot pin). Swap your shock with junkyard shock and bolt "new" bearings to car. If boneyard bearings are also bad then you can do your origional strut right without taking the car off the road. And you thought this would be a hard job. :)

The correct term is "crush washer". I have seen them in aluminum and copper. They really are not flat, but have one or two raised rims on the sealing faces. Check with a maker of AN fittings (Russel, Aeroquip) or at your local aircraft suppy/maintenance shop.

Try a two part epoxy (those funny side by side syringes) that you can get at any hardware store.

v12, one other modification to think about. Add 2mm of washers between caliper mount ears and ears on strut (moves caliper 2mm away from wheel). Only bad thing is new thick pads may be hard to get in on outer side of disk. You could also add a 2mm shim between back of hub and disk to put everything back into position. I'd leave that shim (a single piece, not four seperate shims) to a machine shop (it should be ground to thickness). If it is not flat the rotor will wobble (no good!).

The answer is yes and no. One mm clearance is fine if the wheels/studs/hubs don't flex/wobble and you never get any pebbles/track trash between the calipers and wheels. You have three options for increasing clearance: 1) Mill clearance into back side of wheels (didn't think so!) 2) Shim wheel out with wheel spacer. Watch clearance from tire to fender lip. 3) Mill clearance on brake caliper. Should be no problem to remove 2mm.

The long shocks (with peg-leg) go in the rear.

Have to work on my reading comprehension, missed the whole thing about welded rear. Never going to get rid of understeer with locked rear unless you drift the back end around. Think of your "wedge" analogy. The inner rear tire describes a smaller arc than the outer rear tire going around a turn. For the CAR to follow a smooth arc the outer rear must travel farther then the inner rear. With a welded diff both wheels TRY to travel the same arc. In effect the inner rear steers the car to a larger arc (and is born chronic understeer). Got to go now ,wife says I have to get up in 5 hours.

Alan , I guess you didn't get it. Like I said the class is closed, I've shot my wad as a lone ranger. Just wonder if Mike will add anything about "copyrighted materials shall not knowingly be posted here. If any published material on the site is copyrighted it will be removed immediately upon notice" or some such hogwash. With something to that effect I think we could all feel TRUELY irate if OUR materials were lifted. Or maybe we could just be irate for the hell of it. Sorry, but I'm done posting on this thread. See you on the real threads amigos.

Alan, just read all my posts on this thread. Your a very intelligent gent, I'm sure you'll get it. I know you maybe sensetive to some of my words, but rest assured I speak to the group and not a single member.

Adjusting in more rear brake bias may also help free the rear on corner entry. Weight jacking on stockers works because of only left handers and because the chassis is STIFF. If you don't have a stiff car you will only get more lost. Still recommend running on a skid pad. Get a tire pyrometer, the tires don't lie. If all else fails use some driving tricks to hustle the beast the best you can. Good luck, and remember not to throw every tweak at the problem all at once. One change at a time.