panchovisa

Just returned home from my 14 hour shift. Glad to see that nobody (except for RB30-Zed, who can see this from both sides) is at all concerned by anything other than their own interests. Copy away, and hope you don't meet someone that cares as much about equal rights under the law as yourself (unless you have already). Ethics 101 for lawyer wannabes has been dropped from the course schedual for lack of interest. Litigation 104 for revenge and profit is now filling up fast, please have your student ID's and cheese ready. I sleep well.

Sopwith, I don't know what you mean by taking two rounds of coilover off RF and LR. That will only affect the ride height (lower) at those corners and increase weight at opposite corners and has no effect on wheel rate. I hate the idea of jacking a road race car out of whack. Try something less drastic like lower LF air pressure (slight stagger), more camber on RF (or both), more preload on RF of sway bar (stiffer wheel rate on left turns), more toe in, or a little more castor (shim T-C rod). Also try not to over cook your turn entry, and use throttle to balance out understeer (blip-blip). I'd find a parking lot and run a skid pad circle trying some adjustments prior to track time. Just my 2 cents.

If we agree to follow the letter of the law then no information nor image may be posted to this site at lease without proper credit and in many cases reproduction would likely not be allowed (in the case of posting a scanned image from a publication like the FSM). The law does not require yours/mine consent. The law just is. You/I are either legal or criminal. If we "know" ahead of time that someone would not give permission then we have made a consious decission to BREAK THE LAW. Very simple, no other explaination needed. Not picking on you, you just happen to be the only person giving the majority (I believe) view.

Just kind of ironic how the general feeling up to now has been letter and intent of the LAW protects "us", but how many "loopholes/rationalizations" allow unauthorized use of others property. Those most concerned with receiving protection should be the first to apply the law to anothers benefit. Otherwise it is just (how you say on this site?) whine.

TexasZ, so if the ends justify the means?

I just deleted three images from my gallery of race cars I got somewhere else. I know one of the pictures I deleted is in at least one other members gallery (doesn't matter who, so don't ask). Just thought it was the right thing to do.

Seems to me that this forum has gone from discussing one particular on-site incidence, to other instances of members photos being "lifted", to copyrights in general, to copyrights regarding "our" images, to site policies. When does the discussion begin regarding tech articles and images lifted from other sources that appear here? Seems that protection must work both ways.

Abas, is Paraffin a brand name in the UK? In the US paraffin is sold in blocks for home canning of food (similar to candle wax). I used lacquer thinner to remove all the old glue, didn't hurt the vinyl. Naptha is not as harsh as lacquer thinner, so I'd follow Alan's rec since it also removes the glue.

Though you have the spindle pin rotated to the correct position the s-pin may not be located lengthwise "exactly". With the lock pin where it is try putting a nut on each end of s-pin. The tap one end of s-pin and see if locking pin can easily be tightened more. If it can't be tightened more, then tap s-pin the opposite direction. The only purpose of the lock pin was to keep s-pin from rotating while tightening outer nuts. Also to keep s-pin located lengthwise so that an equal amount of threads existed on each end of s-pin. I don't think getting locking pin fully seated affects anything as long as you are able to torque both s-pin end nuts.

OK guys, why do I always have the last post in a thread??? My suggestion might have sounded "funny", but I was trying to work within the context of what MrMarcDude was trying to accomplish. MarcDude, what do you think? Really starting to get paranoid about all the threads I've killed! Constructive critiscsim (can't spell, but you know what I mean) is appreciated.

Carl, your so sly!

280zgod, I attached a chart that I was unable to attach to a PM. Just hope the "copyright thread" doesn't see this post! Building a multi-purpose car is full of compromises. If you want to win drag races you need to get to the finish line first (at 80 mph or 120 mph, no difference) by having the quickest time. Using 3, 4, or 5 gears is not of any consequence. Study the Datsun transmission gear ratios (you will probably want an overdrive 5-speed for dual purpose) and rear end ratios (you will definately want a limited slip for dual purpose). There are only so many choices available. What option you do have to tune for dual purpose is the diameter of your tires. How about bigger diameter rear tires for the street and smaller (stickier) diameter tires for the strip? Or a 3.36 for the street and a 4.11 for the strip? It not fun changing rear ends, but if you can't accomplish what you want without it then thats that.

WWEEELLLL NNNNNOOOOWWWWWWW. Why hasn't anyone noticed that RB30-ZED and Moyest haven't posted. Could it be they have handled things all by themselves, or now wish to remain out of this thread? Just an observation. Sorry to have taken this thread off topic, now back to the courtroom drama. ACTION! (see I was two minutes to late sending my post!)

I'd seriously reconsider drag racing with a 3.36 rear end, unless you use 10" rims off a Mini (have to consider the final drive ratio).

MrMarkDude, well if you REALLY want a flat black engine compartment why not spray some driveway seal coating on. Tuff, doesn't show "scratches" like flat primer, wont get "shiny" after rubbing the dirt off. Best of all a five gallon pail should allow 200 repaints for $12!!!!!:) Could work, but I'd try it on some old sheet metal first. Remember that you'll have to have real paint underneath to seal metal. Nothing nicer than a just recoated driveway.

You know I knew I had seen the car here before. Yah, I think a little credit would be due.

Putting on new tie-rods + ball-joints and latter taking them off shouldn't be a problem. When you decide to restore the front suspension don't try to remove the new tie-rods from the steering arm, or the ball-joints from the steering arm. Just remove the steering arm from the strut and the ball-joint from the control arm (so simple, yet effective). Get a good polyurethane steering coupler and also check inner tie-rod ends (they are adjustable, buy a manual). Oh, and post pictures for those that follow you.

260DET, thanks for the numbers. I feel much better about my 260# front and 240# rears now (nice numbers hey!). I'm using a 28.6mm adjustable front (five or six positions) and 22.2mm rear (with four positions and much shorter "arm" than stock). So I'm just guessing that my front bar should be adjustable from 400# to 600# and my rear from 150# to 250#. The much lower rate on the rear may be the reason why some racers use stiffer springs in the back.

Ok folks here is my take on recent ClassicZcar.com interactions. Damn good group of folks here. So last weekend there was some heated discussions, taunts, threats, slamin and bamin. Now all is well, people can't wait to help, all is forgiven, and this site (my favorite on the whole WWW) is going to get even better. I made some comments on the weekends infamous thread about this being a COMMUNITY of Z lovers. Time has proven that to be correct I believe. Mike made a comment about this not being a place to voice opinions. Maybe even Mike might have to reconsider when the opions relate to how WE ALL want this site to be. Mike also said that this place is a living, breathing, ever evolving unfinished project, and he was right. If we all contribute what is helpful, or of interest to the others, I don't believe we need a ledger full of rules. Just one should do: Leave this place better than you found it. I'm pleased that everything seems to be better today than last week.

Just borrow weights from the neighbor kids gym! If it take more than 300# who gives a $hit what rate springs you use as they are less important than the transient rate of the bar:)

Do you take advantage off rouge and cotton wheels, or did you make love to it by hand? Great job, want to do mine? Didn't think so.

Oh, I also forgot that the effective spring rate of the bar would be increased by a percentage relating to it being working on a shorter lever than the strut spring (sway bar mounts closer to inner A-arm pivot than the ball-joint), but would be the same from Z to Z.

Alright guys, smoke-em if ya got em! (tires that is) Ya never know how late you can brake until you wait to long. I used to know how to figure the wheel rate, but since AARP started sending me membership forms I've forgotten. Springs are rated according to how much weight is required to compress 1 inch of travel (constant rate springs). You must apply 300 lbs to compress your 300# spring 1 inch. A sway bar is basically a torsion bar (spring) without a fixed anchor. One end moves up as the other end moves down while the "spring" portion of bar tries to resist. Seems to me that the easiest way to measure the spring rate of front sway bar would be to jack car up level, place jackstands at the back, place one front wheel on blocks, place jack or jackstand under frame at other front, disconnect T-C rod, drop link, and balljoint from A-arm. Let arm swing out of way (tie strut to wall in garage so it doesn't get in the way. Add a plate to bottom of drop link (simulates A-arm, but not anchored) where you can start hanging weights. Measure height of end of sway bar then add weight until you get 1" of deflection. The number of pounds needed to delect one end of bar would either be the bar rate or twice the bar rate (unsure about that point, Help from an engineer would be appreciated). This method would take into account all the variables encountered in actual installation (frame stiffness, style of drop links, play in bar mount, etc.). The rear would be more difficult to get arm out of the way without pulling pivot pin (not fun), but could be done by dropping arm at inner pivot. Your picture shows body roll so the rate of the bar is adding to outside wheel rate.