panchovisa
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Everything posted by panchovisa
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I have a six into two (2 1/4") pipes back to two reverse flow turbo mufflers. The muffs are on each side of fuel cell. It is not "buzzy" or "farty", it's a deeper throatier sound. It is legal noise wise, but it gets loud on full throttle. -
Thanks, if you locate the joint come back and give us the make/model it comes from. I'm thinking it's from a Triumph TR6, BUT?????? -
For classic cruising my Chrysler Concorde is an arm chair on wheels. Like the B-52's sang "I got me a Chrysler, it's as big as a whale, n I'm about to set sail" "it seats about twenty, so come on and bring your juke box money!" When I want an adrenalin rush I pull out my Z and break a sweat.
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260DET, You can find spherical bearings (more like bushings, similar to rod ends (without the threaded post), except that they are meant to mount in a bore, like where urethane bushings are used on many lower control arms for Z's) on most any bearing web site. NMB has all kinds. My control arm has spherical bearings. Other people have cut off inner portion of the control arm, welded in square bar stock, and tapped it to accept spherical rod ends.
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2manyZ's, I'm going from memory, but I believe the joint is from a TR6 steering set-up. The part is quite similar to our inner tie-rod end, except that it has a male threaded stud on joint. If somebody knows some Triumph people maybe one of them can give the part an identdity (model, year, etc.)
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If you like your car the way it is than just ignore this thread and cruise in comfort.
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I just posted some pictures in my gallery of home made adjustable, solid (no rubber/urethane), tension/compression rods for use with stock lower control arms. These can be duplicated by anyone with time to source the British (MOWOG) "hip-jpoints". This modification was standard practice by the CP racers of the 70's. It allows adjustment of caster on lowered cars without trying to tweak camber plates to a position they were not intended to go. You will of course be eliminating rubber/urethane donuts at chassis so the ride will be harsher. But the caster and toe-out will not change under heavy braking/hard cornering which is a big plus.
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Locate "hip-joint" from British car bone yard (Triumph I think). Part is stamped "MOWOG" which is what many MG's, Triumphs, Jags, Morris, etc had for part markings (similar to NISMO on our cars). Cut old t-c rods to save hooked ends. Get a machine shop to internaly thread tube to match metric threads on hip-joint. Have tube welded to hook ends (notice that tube is notched to give stronger/more weld area. Great thing about this style adjustable T-C rod is that it attaches to stock lower control arm. My arm has spherical bearing pressed in, but most people have urethane bushings fitted already. No need to trash existing control arms for full tubelar (Arizona Z) versions. -
Spherical "hip-joint" from British (I think Triumph) car. Has "MOWOG" stamped on rod. This is a real vintage race part fabricated for the CP wars of the 1970's.
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Steve, Someday I'm going to upgrade my exhaust to full SS with Supertrapp muffs. I don't think you'll want to remove all the discs because the design requires the discs to function. Adding discs increases the area that exhaust needs to exit system, removing discs closes down system. attached is some FAQ from Supertrapp, last chart shows opening in square inches for number of discs. Your 2 1/4" pipe has 3.97 square inches and based on chart (noting caveat at bottom) I think you would want approximately 18 discs. I'd call for tech help to tune your particular system. http://www.supertrapp.com/Automotive/technical%20bulletin%202002-10.pdf
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Just fantastic. Great attention to detail, you made even the "worst part--core support" look great! -
If I were you I'd be looking at that and daydreaming about filling it full of polished, braided, anodized, stainless steel wet dreams! -
Ron, you missed a spot. All the best Z cars are white! (or red, yellow, blue, black, etc.) -
Steve, I'm going to be putting on 17"x13" REARS (and you've got 12" FRONTS!!!!), and 17"x101/2" fronts. The body work I have should work up front, but I think that I'll have to put the YZ rear quarters on. What is your experience with YZ rear flairs? Minimal problems? They look very well done from web site. -
Looks great! What are your plans? Vintage, GT2, or ???? Doyou have a guess about when you'll hit the track?
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With the photo caption and flesh tones in small thumbnail I am seriously upset to see SEATS! -
Beautiful shot!!!! I'm a big fan of the vintage races, the Brian Redman Classic at Road America kicks a$$. -
A good radiator shop could modify the radiator, but you would probably need some sort of bearing to support the longer propeler shaft. Also might want to put some universal joints on it to keep it lower so it wouldn't hit the hood.
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Did you use a clutch alignment tool to get clutch disk centered to pilot bearing? If not ,go get one. They are cheap ($10 or less) and svae 3 pounds of sweat!
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Beandip, Love your logic! We should get together in Death Valley for some test runs! Imagine what could happen BELOW sea level. My brain is spinning.
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Carl, Not sure where I saw this, but I wonder what the part number is? Also do you think Pep Boys has it, or would you try the Toyota dealer? Or Nissan?
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You might be able to do it with header still attached, but you will want to get the rest of exhaust out of the way. Look at your situation (don't know exactly what exhaust you have) and imagine that tranny has to move backwards about 5 inches (maybe farther to clear headder collectors) to get input shaft out of crank pilot/clutch/pressure plate. Will bellhousing clear exhaust to move down/up into and out of transmission tunnel? I have found that bellhousing is a tight fit in tunnel without a header to manuver around.
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Delta, I followed the link. I read a couple posts and skimmed the rest. I was disgusted. I can't believe how many children were affected by this abuse. Hopefully you will testify against the rat. Our sincere condolances in your time of shame.
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Yes, the washers are the problem. The fitting is a tapered pipe thread and it needs to be tightened until it can't be turned any more. The washers are keeping the interference fit of the threads from sealing. Use teflon (tape or goop) pipe thread sealant on all pipe threads.
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Mark, I believe that the rod and fork Pusher has now will work with a new slave cylinder. The rod is only "attached" to slave cylinder by the rubber boot. Just pull the boot off new slave, remove non-adjustable rod, slip in adjustable rod, and pop boot and rod back onto new slave cylinder.
