panchovisa

I have one in my car. Very rare. If I were selling would probably want minimum 5k. They were $2,000 back in the seventies, and not many around anymore. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I switched to r-h inners and outers on my rack years ago. All you have to do is find another stearing rack and scavenge the right-hand side parts for transplant to your cars steering rack on the left side. Read the repair manual regarding removeal of the "ball" joint that retains the inner. It may require spanner or pin wrenches (I cant recall exactly now). Practice the removal at home before going to junk yard, easy after the first one is done.

God I miss the Bambikiller some times! CARL!!!!!!!!!!

Ron, I believe the car in the ad is the same car featured in Vintage Motorsport's May/June issue. If it is, then this was the 1st BSR 610 sedan prepared for racing, and was used to re-produce body parts for the actual "winning" 610's to follow. The car was held in reserve by BSR, lest the actual war horse was hobbled. It would be by no means a "show car", just an un-raced back-up racer. It seems that it finally has become a racer on the vintage circuit with slight changes in tires, safety equipment, and such. O.T. Have been lingering here, but aven't posted for years. Howdy all! Panchovisa

Jmark, The streetable headers I have on my 2.4 liter do have 1 and 3/8" primaries. I use an E-31 head and the #4 & #5 exhaust ports need 1 and 1/2" tubes to begin with at the head. Jere Stahl does a neat job of sleeving the smaller tube into the larger one and brazing a smooth transition between the pipes. The best thing about going with his haeder is that you can run a real twin pipe exhaut to the back of the car. It sounds GREAT! I run a fuel cell so I have a muffler in each back corner. If you have a stock gas tank then think about running two SuperTrapp stainless "megaphone" style mufflers "over and under" at the stock location. Either way you will need some custum bent pipes. Midas can "crush bend and fit them, or you can find someone who can mandral bend them. I will eventualy replace my steel crush bent pipes and generic reverse flow mufflers with stainless mandral bent pipes and SuperTrapps. Go for it, it's not cheap but it is the best way to go.

Carl was my friend that I never got to meet. Most of the PM's on this site in my account were to, or from Carl. I enjoyed his Libertarian viewpoint, his humor, his defence of others, and his relentless badgering of "know-it-all" posters. Carl told it like it is. I liked that, though I'm sure others didn't. DAMN IT SUCKS!

If your still looking to upgrade your springs I have an option. Try the valve springs from an 810 DIESEL. They are the same static length and the same stack height as stock springs ,but they are 80# stiffer. The first time I autox'ed my car I threw a rocker arm completely out. A good friend who was an early(1600 Roadsters through first 300Zx) factory Datsun tech (now an engine mechanic for Nortwest) gave me that info. Made the change and engine runs great at higher revs (7 to 7.5 K) with no concerns about top of engine.

gtzilla, link me up to the damper your talking about. I've got a crank trigger set up MINUS the damper. My trigger wheel needs to be welded (tacked) to damper, and a slotted (to adjust timing) bracket needs to be fab'ed for the pickup.

Alan, Thanks for getting back to me. Must say I'm very impressed with that 6 into 1 header. It's the first true 6 into 1 I've seen. Most others are really 6 into 2 into 1. What a collection of photos and info you have collected. When is the Z reference library being published?

Alan, The drag header you posted is very interesting. "In the meantime, how about a Kameari Engine Works 'DRAG 6-1' 48mm unit at 294,000 Yen?:" Question?: I assume the 48mm is the primary diameter, and assuming the exhaust pulses overlap (volume of six primaries full 50% of the time) then the tail pipe would have to be 83 mm (3.27 in) diameter. If no overlap than 117mm (4.63 in) diameter!!!!! No wonder they are listed as "DRAG" headers, tough to fit that size of pipe under a road racer! Any additional spec's regarding final tail pipe diameter listed in your info on those beautiful beasts?

Ron's headers are very unique. I would guess that $500 would probably get you 2 of the 6 tubes (am I about right Ron?). I have two versions of the Jere Stahl header. In my gallery is a low end torque version for a streetable Z. It was custom made for me back in 1977 for about $550. It has smaller diameter primaries than available aftermarket versions today. The second Stahl header I have is ported to a full race John Caldwell head. It has massive primaries with two versions of slip on collectors. One set of collectors are dual 2.25" (for short tracks. Willow Springs, Lime Rock, etc) and the others are dual 3" for long tracks (Road America, Brainard, Daytona, etc). The workmanship on both is outstanding and almost as cool as Ron's. Olie, if you want something unique than by all means go for it!

From an decidely un-international point of view I feel they left a good choice off. The Cunningham Racing IMSA GTO 300ZX Turbo. Ron would especially like the John Morton driven chassis number (future project Ron????).

HEY CARL! Zmefly"s present punishment, according to DeltaDawn, is that he is with the FAT BITCH across town. Karma does have a sence of fairness about it.

Alan, I can't read Japanese. I can tell (and did) that head was not ready to use though.

Lot's of nice sharp edges in last picture of cylinderhead to aid detonation. Looks pretty now, but not later when hotspots burn piston top.

We don't need scam spammers here. Mike, can you dump this putz?

I'm going on 2 and a half years now to replace a bum fuel pump (and assorted "details").

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Jared, will have my car on the street come spring here in Minnesota (July?). We should do an autocross together before winter (October?). Pancho (from Eagan, MN)

Paid $24K drove it 200 miles in 14 months, now for sale. Why anyone would want a low mileage car (with the intent to keep it low miles) is beyond me. I'd rather take that car and get the odometer to max out.